Nickfromwales

Baker? 2 bacon and cheese puffs and a split donut please You've just validated your lifetime pass

Flexi grout, but make sure it's fine joint and not that horrible cementitious stuff that looks like it's a sand and cement mortar. Yuk. Its quite crazy tbh, why flexible tile adhesive is so shit at sticking tiles to ply bath / boxing panels. As a reality check, purely for my own satisfaction, I tiled a bath panel a few years ago and used flexible, rapid set tile adhesive, the same as I'd used on the ply'd floor ( over joist upstairs ). I came in the following morning and looked at the tiles, walked over to the bath, and then booted the middle of the bath panel quite hard. All but the end 2 tiles immediately fell away from the bath and the experiment was deemed a success, by myself, as what I had expected to happen, did. Not a scrap of adhesion to the ply, just marks on the ply where the adhesive had struck it during application and then duly gone off. Now, the head scratchy bit. I've had to take up floors before, one particular instance where I had to get to a leaking pipe. I'd laid the floor tiles a few days prior, ceramic, with rapid set flexible adhesive. As I set about trying to save said tiles, by gently lifting at the edges etc to try and pry them up and away from the ply, I realised they were not going to come quietly. In the end, I had to beat the life out of them, breaking every one, and they didn't just stick to the ply, but the ply also came away with the tiles and adhesive, with the screws ( that I fixed the ply down to the floorboards with ) having to give way and pull through the ply. I literally had to tear the floor up and away as the bond was so good. I still don't know why this happens, but I'm assuming the flexibility of the ply over a bath panel / similar is just too poor a substrate for the adhesive to work well. Hence, I now only bond tiles to boxing in with silicone. Cheap n cheerful stuff or whatever is in the gun / van and I've not lost a patient yet. Aim for about 70% coverage with blobs around the size of a £2 coin, and be careful of the tiles affected by gravity as silicone doesn't provide the instant grab that a good adhesive does. Your angled reveals / panels may see the tile slowly lean forward and fall off before the stuffs gone off, so keep checking as you go. As for the trims, mitre glue and activator spray are your #1 friends.

I bet his missus just wants a chuffing bath

Tiling that is going to be a very interesting challenge. If that doesn't make you tiler of the year, I'll pin the medal on you myself.

We can only hope the OP hasn't head for the hills , but to be fair, we are here to provide accurate information and we've done so. Such info is invaluable, and we can only hope that through the heated parts of this debate the best of what info is available has come through clearly, and has been of value. Now..........back to insulation we go

Agreed. As I stated, freedom of speech and an entitlement to an opinion is a fundamental requirement to be able to engage, and be engaged, and thus learn from the subsequent exchanges. That's what I like about this particular community. Toddling off won't achieve anything tbh, and as your opinion is one that offers content and inspires debate I'd ask that you stick around and continue to participate accordingly. You may not be my cup of tea, and I may not be your cup of tea, but the world needs tea, that's for sure. Nobody here is perfect, but were quite happy to admit it .

The vast majority would be none the wiser if it wasn't for resources like this one. The gobbledygook that we 'apparently' speak of here is music to the ears of most, and is a refreshing change from the utter shit that most builders deliver to their unsuspecting customers whilst counting their cash out and walking away from another disgraceful example of how we used to live. If building an airtight and well insulated house in 2016 is a quantum leap to you, then where the hell have you been for the last few decades? Your comments are really out of touch with the ethos of what we strive for here, and to me seem quite far from the spirit of the community that enjoys, and appreciates, the quality, honesty and impartiality of the information freely available within. I too cordially invite you to make reference to any scoffing that has gone on, and I'll wager you can only recite comments which offer genuine contest or deliberate, well informed factual information to the contrary of anything that should receive such challenge. That information does indeed make resources, such as this forum, a holy grail of information for anyone who doesn't know different, or don't know that there is an alternative, and indeed better way of doing things. Why make small steps when you can make giant leaps in the same time, for the same effort, and with outstanding results? A thirst for knowledge is the reason I stayed here, and I am a better person for what I've learned so far, so I'll thank the geeks for their help so far, and ask, for one, that they continue to do so. Fwiw, I doubt if the masses agree with your POV. I don't, but it's your opinion and your entitled to it under the terms of free speech, which we are proud to observe here.

It was free, who cares! http://stayer.es/en/ ?

deffo the best way to do the repair.

The latex can still allow a fatal ding in the cable if a tile corner comes down on it

The manufacturers ask for ohms readings as Jeremy says, but didn't / don't usually ask for a megger test for insulation resistance, just a reading off a regular multimeter. Should be in here somewhere. On iPhone so a bit hard to view it and quote text sorry.

You do NOT want to be fitting this to pipe which has a radius in it. They really need to go in on a straight run, as per the reasons for my last. That can't be achieved with one connector

Where do you think a £7k bill came from? They were found fully liable, so yes. I can't recall as it was a few years back, but I think they tried to get off the hook with some small print. The small print didn't affect the rights of the customer so they challenged it, and apparently won. It did go on for a while but afaik it was fully settled and resolved. Ring them and ask the question

Warmup paid up when challenged

Cut the affected section out now and repair it accordingly. I'd use 2 connectors, 1 a foot or so before the scratch, and another at the same distance after it. That will see the connectors located in a joist void ( rather at this high point where it loops ) so therefore accessible from underneath if ever so required. The straight 16x16 connectors are bulletproof and I've buried many under screed / in boxing in etc where nuggets have damaged laid pipe etc. Not once have I had a leak, or any other such issue, when fitted properly. Keep the connectors in the adjoining voids and get the damaged section out now Pressure test it at the incoming mains pressure and tell the Womble with the multi tool to use a circular with depth stop next time

As long as the tape / sealing issue is addressed properly during this method I'd say go with this. Overlapping or adjoining the airtight layer isn't a problem as long as the 'connection' is sound. The airtight tapes are damn good at their job as your probably aware, as you don't get a second chance to stick that stuff on, a real pita to work with on fussy junctions I found.

I've fitted them for the acoustic quality, and can report no real difference. In the pics if there is no silicone / sealant then it's just because it hadn't been done yet . Every job needs to be sealed so you can't pee down the gap after too much ale I always fit the pan loose, squirt sealant / silicone between the pan and the wall, then fully tighten. As the sealant oozes out you clear it away with baby wipes / tissue and CT1 multi solve ( if you've used a non silicone like CT1 ) and then level and give a final tighten. I always clear as much silicone / other away from that junction as possible, leaving just a functional seal down the sides, but on the top I tool the silicone to leave a flat flush surface so there is no 'trough'. Leave to cure for 24 hrs, and job done. If the silicone is breaking away then I'd be a bit concerned that the pan may not have been fully tightened back. They do move a little though, and you have to have balls of steel to give the final few turns of the fixings. If just a quick finger of silicone has been applied, rather than my method of sandwiching it between the two mating surfaces, then I'd fully expect it to come away / split. Needs redoing IMO.

I said wobbly, not squiff .

Basically ( in rough terms ) a cold roof is your typical rock-wool / other insulated attic where the insulation layer is on top of the 1st floor ceilings. From the underside of the roof you just see the felt. A warm roof has the insulation layer directly under the breather membrane, so the attic 'space' is within the heated envelope, rather than cold and draughty .

I'm quite happy that you've stated the correct order of events Jeremy. Just a bit of moderation was, I felt, necessary to address a certain comment which I didn't feel met with out normal site etiquette. Let's move on folks .

Ok, I'll concede that fermacell will change the characteristicts vs regular PB. Just a bit of inside info for you in case you ended up with wobbly walls .

Hmmm. Unless you're aware of a specific and purposeful alteration in a post, and then it's deemed a misrepresentation, then could we please stick to facts. Are you aware of a change in the posted texts, or have you assumed the posts were altered for the purpose of disposing of a statement? If it's the latter then I'd politely invite you to edit your comment to be less abrasive please! There are no members here who wish to "bash" anything . We give free impartial advice here, and in this case only the facts have been posted according to the manufacturer, warts and all, and it's always been the best way to provide real life info. The supporting comments about the multifoils' other shortcomings, like poor sound insulation, are vital components of any critique, and should be in no way stifled as that would be worse IMHO. Many thanks.

Ah! Agree, and with wood not so easy . I've never found a house with metal stud work that has anywhere near the feeling of strength in the walls that you find in a all timber property. When doing my BIL's bathroom in Kent I literally had to stuff the throats of the metal studs with ply, then overboard them with 18mm shuttering ply ( cheap and light ) and then fix a 9.5mm plasterboard to that and then tile. I was in no way happy to tile the existing walls as I could literally move them by pushing / leaning on them. It was a mass produced cheap n cheerful house, but just something for you to consider. Maybe ask for an example wall to be erected on 400mm centres and then see if you may be better at 300? I'd think long and hard about over-boarding in the bathrooms and kitchen at least.

That sounds like a headache. TBH, if you primer the floor, lay a bead of exp foam, drop a stud on it and hold it whilst it goes off, it'll be like it HAS been bolted down. Unless you're stick building, I think that'll be a logistical nightmare, trying to pre drill the footers to allow them to slide over exposed studs, and for the stud to be in perfect position afterwards.........seems a bit too optimistic to me. Good idea with the ground workers setting the penetrations under the surface of the slab. That must give an uber flat floor vs trying to go around obstacles. The only thing I'd have done ( unless they did so ) would have been to put 6" blank plugs ( upside down ) over the top of the 4" sockets so that they could be removed after the pour in case of damage to the seals. The plugs would get chipped out / against as sacrificial units leaving the sockets free to be removed and a gap around them, but still maintaining a good seal below of the concrete against the actual pipe. Breaking out concrete around a set penetration is a right pita, and to do so without causing damage to the pipe makes it incredibly slow going. On a previous job I had to dig 4 of them out! They were in the right place as far as MBC were asked to put them, but then the customer changed the remit and I had to move / cut back almost every one . Not a nice or easy job, especially when I had the rebar in the slab to avoid. Looks a nice neat job with these guys though so it must feel great to have a clean working platform now

~£120 difference on the 5m2 mat ( with no controller ) so the Prowarm stuff is expensive. Warmup seem out of the running as I can't see a 100w kit.