Nickfromwales

Can you give details of which make / type of film you went with please?

Yup, one of the major benefits. That job had semi-pedestals at each basin so more of a pita to get at them later. The other major benefit is being able to leave rooms isolated if they haven't yet been first fixed and then bringing them online, one feed at a time, to check for leaks / commission. Very handy in a part-complete build as you don't have to keep draining down and interrupting the water supply to already connected outlets. There was another 2-port manifold at the bottom of that pic ( yet to be fitted at the time iirc ) which serviced non-softened water. One to the boiler filling loop, and one to the kitchen sink cold tap ( for filtered water tap & cooking quality water ) plus it also tee'd off at the kitchen sink and supplied the outside tap. In an installation with a softener and an accumulator, the point where you tee the outside tap off from is of critical importance. It needs to be directly after the incoming cold stopcock and before the non-return valve of the accumulator**, or multi-block of an UVC arrangement. The outside tap should be before any pressure reducing measures so it influences the cold pressure to the house as little as possible. **You don't want the outside tap to be using stored energy from the accumulators,

You normally fit spacers ( door stop size timber ) between them to allow airflow. If it's just one or two then maybe worth trying, but it could go wrong tbh. 1-2mm isn't going to be something anyone other than you notices so maybe best left alone, or buy 2 new doors and gum tree the others?

Even more so on engineered as that likes to absorb moisture and respond in a worse way than natural, solid timber. Fitted solid oak work tops in a country cottage rental a few years back and the place was ice cold and damp. Customer brought the work tops to site a bit to soon and the buggers warped about 10mm end to end. I got some metal clamps and braced right through the tops, whacked hardwood shims in between the clamp bars and the high points and chucked a bucket of water over them. No method to my madness other than I thought it would cure them....and it did. I biscuit jointed hardwood end caps on ASAP and they are still there today. Tbh, 1-2mm warp for doors stored on site for a couple / few months isn't bad, you got off lightly IMHO.

The only reason for 28mm in that job was because of the accumulator. 22mm is fine on a non-acc install. No,point in going over what your cold main will deliver / is sized at. You can only get a pint out of a pint jar

Doubt it. How were they stored ? ( exact detail please ).

The lead work is a feature as well as functional. Clearly guys with pride in their work Looks really nice, but needs a contrasting colour to compliment, so it'll be nice to see the walls and windows finished to bring it all together. The roofer must be a 3 Weetabix guy for sure ! All neat work, you must be very happy.

32mm Hepworth? Was yours the ready insulated stuff ?

They were cheaper than that when I bought them, circa £30 for the 4-branch iirc. A quick ring around the merchants would get a proper price as nobody ever pays list price unless they're lottery winners.

OCD There was to be a plywood boxing-in to go directly above the manifolds and cover the cuts in the ceiling which are out of view. The problem was, how to fill the holes where the various pipes bent off into their different directions whilst maintaining fire cell qualities and basic neatness. The only reason for the stubs of 15mm copper was that's where the plywood was to be finger-cut to go over the pipes, thus not allowing melted plastic to compromise that transition. The 10mm's to the right hadn't yet been doctored to suit yet as this was the early stages of commissioning and testing and I was pushed to get some services working ( get the downstairs cloak wc working so the portaloo could go etc ) so I just needed to pressurised the manifolds and try's things for leaks.

A choice people make when deciding upon how they want their system to perform . Having the shower flow / temp fluctuating during use is something people wish to actively negate, and the pipe is cheap enough tbh. As long as they're brass or stainless then there's no real reason why not, just that the isolations aren't ideally suited to mains pressure / control of. Personally I'd not recommend it.

Pretty much what it boils down to. Hear the smoke detectors wailing, get up and get out.

For Hepworth installs.... Well worth a read

PS, the manifolds are male - female ended so one screws directly into the next to daisy-chain them together.

This is the best 'zoom-able' pic I can find. The rails are supported by the pipe work which is held in place with brass Munson rings. Copper to irons on each end, and as a belt n braces job I created a ring so the manifolds got fed from both ends. I did that as the cold manifold was very long and could have suffered loss of flow and I just then carried that across to the hot manifold to as it was easy enough to do. The remit on that job was to be able to use all the showers at the same time and still have some useable flow / pressure elsewhere so went to town on this one. If you zoom in you'll see opaque / white plastic spacers in between the manifolds ( 3 to the long run ). These iirc were 28mm Talon pipe clips which held the rails with near spot on results. Another way to do this, if only feeding from just one end, would be a clip on the input pipe work and then a stub of pipe made off and cap ended ( or a DOC ) the other side, with enough pipe to get a second clip on.

I meant more about excessive use eg baths more than quick showers etc. PH would allow you to ascertain expected dhw consumption, but it's best to stress that if dhw use rises then the stated / expected efficiency would drop considerably. Thats the tipping point where it may be beneficial to go to a different arrangement for heating and hot water.

TCT may damage the face before cutting in. I'd only consider diamond for this job tbh.

And no nibble problems either Plastic does seem a strange option for down low, but I recall asking @JSHarris about his uPVC skirts covering his eps up stands and he stated that there was no issue whatsoever. If it's in brickwork then I think I'd go clay tbh, just for 'continuity'.

Would the CoP be hugely affected if the dhw demand was above average though?

May the sideways force be with you.

I brought this up many moons ago on Ebuild. Click here and see if the content helps out

I was called a fat Billy Elliot as if you zoom in, you'll see I broke 4 tiles getting up there

The one on the left is called Grindy, the one on the right is Choppy. ??

I've just fitted a Pv array on a roof and used A2 stainless fixings. They're rock solid with zero shear, snapping etc and I'd not consider anything else for that particular task. Stainless can be soft as butter but these ones I used were concrete solid. tough at the top

Can you get hold of a smaller diamond core drill ( beg / borrow ) and use it side on to ream the hole accordingly. ?