Nickfromwales

Fwiw, I've fitted a load of the Dron ( German iirc ) stuff and never had an issue. Can't see any difference TBH, or more importantly where the extra money goes. Some, possibly warmup, do a lifetime / long / extended warranty on their cables but that's with very their very strict installation guidelines adhered to to the letter. I've heared of one instance where a warmup cable failed at multiple points in a new and very expensive bathroom. They came out with an imaging camera and cut 3 sections of floor out. They then remove sections of the wire and took them away for analysis. After a long wait, and much chasing up, they admitted liability and paid around £7k for reparation work. . ( after being told it wasn't going to go away that is ). With that said, it adds merit to go for the known makes / reputable brands as they are typically the ones that offer a warranty that's actually worth the paper it's written on. The above was the only instance I've heared of these types of kits catastrophically failing, with one other warmup kit I fitted going to earth fault but I found out the floor got flooded so I disconnected it and told them it's party over. I think they've since reconnected it against my advice and it's working.

Warm up is overpriced IMO. They do, however, a very good controller and for the sake of the extra £20 this one talks to your smartphone. Different colour options too to better suit the decor. The controller isn't cheap, but it has bags of features like running costs monitoring etc. This Devi mat is good, and the price is great. You can couple this to the warmup stat no probs ( and the controller comes with the thermostat probe to complete the kit ).

Fwiw the Pro warm stuff looks ok to me. Just had a quick look and it's much of a muchness with Warmup and the likes.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24m-150W-WT-Twin-DRON-UNDERTILE-Underfloor-Heating-Kit-self-adhesive-/370064842947?hash=item56299560c3:g:9tQAAOSwhRxXLJFT last few came from here. Controller was basic jobbie so maybe mix and match if the costs work out.

Hi and welcome. Get your PD sorted and then you can settle in here. Best to ask questions about what's happening, as opposed to what 'may' be happening Either way, welcome aboard

I edited my last to make more sense Damn you Budweiser. A 2.5 ltr bottle of that stuff has lasted me a bout 3 jobs Very good mileage. Watered down for fist coat, to reduce porosity, and then applied neat during laying ( stays horribly tacky so best to 'lay as you go' when used neat.

The only prob with the acrylic primers is that they tend to stick to heavy contact items after curing ( knees when knelt on etc ) and are quite a thick, defined, layer. Liquid ( thin coat ) primers are my weapon of choice vs this type of primer ( which is like a thick coat of paint ) as they don't just prime already suitable substrates but coat them with the bonding layer that's actually required. That Bal product is more something I'd expect to use when waterproofing, and as your priming between layers I'd choose something else. I can give you the contact details for N&C and see if you can get their stuff locally or direct if you want.

You need to lay down on my couch for a chat.

Flexible primer between EVERY layer, and then the supplied primer under the mat. I would go for a self-learning 'intelligent' controller. This will ascertain how long it takes for the floor to get to temp, at the set time, and then after a few cycles will adjust itself accordingly to minimise the on time. One assumes it will use the same info to turn off accordingly too. Leave the tiler to his / her own devices. Ask them about what layers will be primed, with what, and why. Allow them to tell you what they're doing, NOT vice versa. You don't buy a dog so you can stay up all night barking yourself.

They should come with a primer, but any flexible primer will do. I use N&C NicoBond stuff and it's shit hot. Don't know if they're nationwide though? Most are a neoprene emulsion so anything with that tag should suffice, but realistically anything that doesn't skin over ( like PVA ) is the better option IMO. It's a lot easier to get the double sided tape to stick to a tacky primer vs a primer like PVA which has skinned over. For one stop shopping get some of this

Use 25mm PVC . Galv is a bit ott

I fitted these on the last few bathroom jobs. Crisp clean light and very nice output. I'd ditch the alu strip tbh, not 'curve compatible' tbh. Does the 16x16 bend on a radius ?

I'm a 2-port man myself, ( unless it's an old arrangement with boiler / pump overrun )

22mm ! http://www.impeyshowers.com/luxury-wetrooms/wetroom-floor-formers/aqua-dec-easyfit.aspx

With an ashp there's usually antifreeze inhibitor in the primary water so a PHE can be used to separate the internal and external bodies of water ( to reduce the volume of treated water that's needs to be refreshed when the antifreeze dies off. )

Plus one on scrapping it. Couldn't think of anything more false of an economy tbh.

If it's a former, then the likes of Impey or Diamond only need around 25mm depth.

Hi mike. Good to see you here. If you can take 5 mins out, then please feel free to open a new thread relating to the boundary issues and get that seeded. It's a blank canvas here at the moment in the more niche areas so any / all input here is greatly appreciated. for anything pipe related just give me a shout.

Ok, but minus the glow-in-the-dark undercrackers please

Deffo a good choice for a straightforward shape Oh, and welcome aboard !

Good idea. Plus 1 to fibreglass.

The big problem with lights around mirrors is the reflection of EVERY little detail. The actual light should be physically hidden but the emmitted light still seen imo, which is hard to achieve. The staggered joint in the layers of plasterboard will need to be hockey-sticked so as to give a clean neat edge so when seen in the reflection it doesn't look like Edward scissor hands did it. It's a shame the mirror is fitted as I'd have suggested a frosted ribbon all the way around so you don't see the lights in the reflection, plus that would help diffuse the light a little. You may wish to illuminate the stairs by creating a lip at the front edge of the cill and run an additional strip under there as a wall wash ( vertically down from the window ledge ) which could look nice if done properly. Don't dismiss the colour change ones too quickly as it may be advantageous to be able to select a hue and fix the colour accordingly ( if these kits are capable of 'locking' the colour selection between on / off events, without manual intervention. You could have some nice solid colours like pastels etc. Not so garish then imo?

Is the light for feature or function? Eg, make the mirror look cool or light the person stood in front of it?

Are you still aiming at off-grid for electricity? Just in case ;)

Welcome aboard!