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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. One lesson Acorn learned early on was the importance of second sourcing components so you weren't dependent on a single supplier for anything. That was well understood by the team that was spun off into Arm. So when the company started designing chips they used design rules that allowed almost any chip manufacturer/foundary to produce them. That made it a much easier sell to companies that wanted to make their own devices. At the time if you wanted to use an Intel processor on your chip then only Intel could make it for you.
  2. I worked for Acorn. Arm actually got a chunk of funding from the EU.
  3. If it's an outdoor boiler I don't think the condensate drain is likely to be coming out of the house. That might be the PRV outlet?
  4. "C White plastic ship lap. About £6 per sqm " That seems to be a good price. Most places I looked were more like £8-10 per sqm.
  5. It's impossible to say how hard/easy it would be to get PP. There is a pub in the village next to us that caught fire and was sold about 7 years ago. New owner has been unable to get PP to change the place to residential use. It's been repaired but the planners have insisted that a certain amount of floor space be retained as a pub/bar (complete with toilets etc) although the owner is not obliged to ever open it to the public. The village is too small to sustain a pub and I don't even think he has an alcohol license anyway.
  6. +1 If you need "structural grade" oak you must make sure the sawmill knows that's what you need. Make sure it's written on the order. They might moan a bit but if you don't you might end up with a big knot right in the middle. You might also consider specifying "no sap wood". Sap wood can stay white while the rest of the oak goes a honey colour. Shop around as £340 a lot for three posts. This isn't planned so might end up too a bit too small but just for example.. http://www.uk-oak.co.uk/product/100_x_100_Air_Dried_Oak_Beams
  7. Some interesting comments in this article written last month whice I've only just seen.. https://www.pressreader.com/uk/the-herald/20170623/282132111446930 Apparently the fire certification for the Reynobond PE panels has the "CE mark indicated" but "on closer inspection it transpires that it is only Reynolux - the aluminium skin - which is CE approved". The BBA certificate (which I think is still valid) apparently says "For resistance to fire, the performance of a wall incorporating this product, can only be determined by tests from a suitably accredited laboritory and is not covered by this certificate." eg The BBA haven't approved it for use on walls (of any height?).
  8. If the concrete is slightly bigger than the shed then rain can land on the surrounding concrete and run or be blown under the walls. To prevent this you can either: a) Make the slab the exact size of the shed with the top above ground level or b) After laying the slab put the shed on a course of engineering bricks and a DPC (but there is a problem at the door). Any other good ways to solve this issue?
  9. Need a bit of care if you plan to put putting some insulation above and some between joists/rafters. If you put lots of insulation between the rafters the temperature at the top of the rafter will fall possibly leading to condensation at that point. I forget what the rule of thumb is but it's something like put 2/3rds above and no more than 1/3rd between. Perhaps someone else can comment.
  10. Probably cheaper to go direct to a local glass merchants. Make templates out of plywood and tell them what it's for. I think the glass should be toughened glass and have a BS Kitemark or CE mark on each pane to meet building regs. You might consider specifying Optiwhite or "low iron" glass which is slightly less green at exposed edges but costs a bit more.
  11. Thanks for the tips as I have a similar issue to sort out.
  12. I recognise Deuren is Flemish for doors. That got me interested as the best quality doors I've ever seen were at a self build show in Brussels. They say.. Something like 80% of new houses in Belgium are self builds and the Europeans do seem much more quality conscious than your average UK house builder/buyer so I wouldn't be surprised if their European doors are very good. Perhaps go visit them?
  13. +1 You really need to make the floor as rigid as possible to minimise the risk. I'd lift the chipboard and install noggins (got any JJI joists left?) then replace the chipboard with two layers of 18mm plywood with staggered joints all screwed down on 200 mm centers. Drill clearance holes for the screws so they don't pry the ply layers apart.
  14. +1 I hired one of those to put a load of posts in single handed. Just as I was finishing the last few a passing farmer tells me they usually just push them in with a back hoe.
  15. There seems to be several ebay sellers with similar.. £209.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modern-Bathroom-Vanity-Unit-Basin-Sink-Unit-2-Drawer-Storage-Cabinet-Furniture-/331283981510?var=&hash=item4d221064c6:m:m3C2hwSXq0sLYqdqQiIAi7w £295 but perhaps ask if would sell basin only? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/March-High-Gloss-White-Bathroom-Vanity-Furniture-Storage-Unit-Basin-Sink-Cabinet-/381765169533?var=650808453284&epid=1255889104&hash=item58e2fa317d:m:m-CNDVyg_55ODtJF6fbidlA Haven't checked exact sizes.
  16. Get them to check the dimensions. An alternative would be to replace the basin with a sheet of white corian and put a free standing basin on top. May have to lower the cabinet on the wall.
  17. +1 Building control recommend warm where possible... https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide.pdf
  18. The under 15sqm (30sqm) rule is a Building Regs rule rather than a Planning rule BUT it only applies to outbuildings not extensions. House extensions (except porches and conservatories) normally need Building Control Approval whatever the size. Edit: An attached car port is only exempt if less than 30sqm and it's open on two sides.
  19. I think the answer is to point out to the mortgage company that because you own both plots you already have a 'quasi-easement' and that the law only allows you to convert that to a full easement when one plot is sold. Perhaps ask your solicitor if it's possible to formalise this in some way? Perhaps by inserting a covenant in the deeds of the old house requiring the owner (currently you) to grant an easement if that was ever sold?
  20. Wikipedia says.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Easements_in_English_law but it goes on to say.. so perhaps ask your solicitor about that reference 8 (Thompson, p. 500).
  21. Possibly a Mk3 Mondeo Estate?
  22. If you can't get it below £1700... That sure sounds like they would be "prohibited from occupation by law". PS: I would appeal the valuation on the grounds that they cannot be "vacant hut sites" because they don't have planning permission for a hut. They probably didn't know that they don't have PP. PPS: Would they value each site at £20m if you said you planned to drill for oil but hadn't got planning permission yet?
  23. The real problem appears to the getting the robo toaster to figure out when to make the toast.. http://uk.businessinsider.com/mark-zuckerberg-on-toast-and-his-robot-butler-2016-7
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