Temp
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Everything posted by Temp
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Just had to pay out £100 on my Toro :-(. Under the desk there is small pointed box of metal that deflects grass up the chute. I caught the nose of that on a kerb bending it downwards 90 degrees. It ploughed a groove across the lawn before I noticed. Was a pig to get the deck out from under the mower because with that sticking down I couldn't lower the deck. Second time it's happened, first time I was able to bash it back into shape but this time it was impossible so had to order new. Looks easy to make but for the double curves on the front. I imagine it cost <£1 to make in China. Cheapest supplier was this place in Germany.. https://www.ersatzteil-service.de/
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Is there a lot of play in the pulley bearing? Otherwise hard to see how the belt came off.
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I think my wiring is similar. All it really needs is a kill switch to short out the coil but there are numerous relays and switches for "safety" reasons (eg to stop you starting the engine unless the brake is on, the cutter is off and someone is sitting in the seat). If you ever decide to replace the battery beware that Halfords sells two mower batteries that are identical except the +ve and -ve are swapped over.
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Do those Westwoods have Briggs & Stratton engines? I have a Toro with a B&S that gave me problems starting until I learned how the decompressor worked. On some/most B&S there is a extra movable cam lobe that opens the exhaust valve at low rpm to make it easier to turn over. If the valve clearances are slightly out this cam doesn't work and the starter struggles to turn it over. Looks like the starter or battery is failing but it's really the valve clearance.
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I thought reserved matters were normally addressed when the full planning application was made so has that been done?
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There are some on ebay but I expect a DIY approach would be cheaper. Search ebay for Skylight Roof Light Clear Walk On
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Ah but that's a beer tap. My beer glass has an F on it.
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Yes there is a special large radius rest bend that only seems to be used for the bottom of stacks.
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Careful with that pulley...
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Go to the makers web site for that info. For example.. https://cdn.plumbnation.co.uk/site/worcester-greenstore-indirect-unvented-cylinders/worcester-greenstore-cylinder-brochure.pdf "Greenstore cylinders. Within the 90-180 models, a 32kW rated coil is utilised, whilst the 210-300 models have a class-leading 39kW rated output coil."
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We opted for oil for heating with LPG in cylinders for our hob. There is a running cost comparison here. See "Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency)" in the table.. http://www.nottenergy.com/energy_cost_comparison Electric - 18p/kWH ASHP - 6.88p/kWH LPG - 6.13p/kWH Oil/Kerosene - 4.11p/kWH Oil price has been up and down a lot over past 10 years but is at a low at the moment. LPG is currently 49% more expensive than oil. But if you're only going to have it for a few years then not much saving.
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Now it's done I'd try it and see.
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The results of the 5th test (PIR insulation and ACM with filler of limited combustibility) are out and it passed... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-test-report-dclg-bs-8414-test-no5
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Sometimes nightmares are real: the insurance story
Temp replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Self Build Insurance
Good point. One I made was against an Irish company and they have their own ASA so that worked out ok. I'm not sure what happens if a UK based company uses an overseas web host? Pretty sure the UK ASA would still take it on if they think the advert is aimed at UK residents. -
Updated table..
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As I understand it the reason the membrane is deliberately allowed to droop is to prevent water from pooling above tile battens causing them to rot. If the batten presses the membrane against something like a sarking board or insulation then dirt washed down the membrane can accumulate and prevent water draining away. If the tile battens are raised up on counter battens then it's not an issue.
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Exactly. In addition the tile needs to overhang into the gutter by the right amount. When you move a tile to get the overhang right it's angle changes meaning the height of the fasia board needs to change. Worth making a mock up on the roof that includes several rows of tiles and short lengths of battens, the gutter, fasia and any membrane support tray. Took me a few goes to get it all looking right.
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Sometimes nightmares are real: the insurance story
Temp replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Self Build Insurance
If you don't get any joy out of Duisol you might care to submit a complaint to the ASA. Web sites are considered adverts and adverts must not be misleading. Can all be done online these days. You must provide a screen shot and state why you think it's misleading. They will give the company a chance to comment and for you to comment on their comment. In recent years I've made three complaints and had all upheld although one company strung out the process for a year and then withdrew their advert which meant the ASA didn't publish their findings. You don't win anything except the satisfaction that nobody else will be caught out. -
I believe you can indeed totally block a neighbours window provided it hasn't acquired a Right to Light under the Act with similar name.
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The results of the 4th test are out (Stone wool and fire retardant filler in the ACM) https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-test-report-dclg-bs-8414-test-no4 It appears it may have passed the fire test but with some structural issues??? The reports are short on commentary but the web page says... "The test result shows that this combination of materials can meet the criteria set out in building regulations guidance BR 135."
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That was the second test in the table and yes it failed. Basically they seem to working through the most likely problem combinations first. Hopefully the next test will pass as that uses the retardant version of the cladding panel but I wouldn't bet on it.
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Yes. If it's a cold roof (insulation between rafters) then you need 50mm ventilated air gap between membrane and insulation.... unless the membrane is vapour permeable. If membrane is vapour permeable or it's a warm roof (insulation above rafters) you can run it over the ridge as no ventilation required (normally).
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The third combination from that table (ACM with fire retardant core & PIR insulation) has failed... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-test-report-dclg-bs-8414-test-no3 It failed because the fire spread too much causing the test to be terminated early. One article says 13 buildings over 18 meters are affected.
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Yes. The verge facias and the facia at the bottom of the hip are all in the same vertical plane. One thing I found difficult was setting the height of the top of the facia - it supports the bottom tiles at the correct angle to match the rest of the roof.
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That took me a while to figure out as I had half length tiles at verge and ridge. I used a wooden spacer to set the batten pitch but it only has to be fractions of a mm out and by the time you get to the ridge you can be miles out. Best stop and recalculate when you are about 10-15 battens below the ridge. It's also worth making a mock up of how the ridge and eaves will go. They may not do s "Hip Apex Cap" for your ridge system. If not I think you have to cover the area with a membrane patch and then cut ridge tiles so they mitre together like a hip apex cap. Darn Peter beat me to it.
