Temp
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Everything posted by Temp
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Perhaps they are concerned about trapped water freezing in hollow boards when fitted horizontally? I think if it's on the underside of a balcony and the ends are protected it should be ok. Edit: Soffits are horizontal.
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In case of interest the IEE commissioned a report some time ago on the issue of putting insulation over existing electrical wiring. http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/15/current-ratings.cfm?type=pdf
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Credit to "lineweight" over at the Green Building Forum for posting this link. https://architectsforsocialhousing.wordpress.com/2017/07/21/the-truth-about-grenfell-tower-a-report-by-architects-for-social-housing/ It pretty much covers every aspect of the disaster. Interesting points for me were: * The work appears to have been done on a Building Notice not Full plans Approval. * The Architects originally specified an insulation system comprising Celotex FR5000 insulation board attached to a timber backing (although at some point that was changed to RS5000). * There were fundamental design flaws such a tall vertical voids formed where the cladding was fitted around the vertical concrete pillars. * The changes to the CDM regulations in 2015 moved responsibility for safety from one party to many parties, some of which appear to have responsibility without authority for safety.
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Can you hire this kit in the UK?.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyJrReen-ng
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Not all counties seem to make a charge for disposing of plasterboard. Might pay to make a short drive.
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The rules have changed. There is no need for any step if the floor slopes away from the door to the house.
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VAT on rebuilds!
Temp replied to mikew1978's topic in Self Build VAT, Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL), S106 & Tax
The rules on this are quite strict. It has to have been empty for the two years before work starts. You can move in the day after work starts but move in the day before and your claim fails. -
VAT on rebuilds!
Temp replied to mikew1978's topic in Self Build VAT, Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL), S106 & Tax
See the notes at the back of the new build reclaim form, in particular page 4 para 9.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-refunds-for-diy-housebuilders-claim-form-for-new-houses-vat431nb -
The Right to Light Act can even trump planning permission but as I understand it you would have to quite severely reduce light levels in the affected room before it was a problem. The 45 degree rule is just a local planning policy. However find out if the planners actually have a written policy that mentions the 45 degree rule. If it does the you will find it harder to win at appeal. If not then I would press on and go to appeal if it's refused.
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And from DEFRA... http://stopsmartmeters.org.uk/official-defra-confirms-smart-water-meters-are-not-compulsory/
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- smart meter
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You have a right to refuse a smart meter according to Which and Ofgem... http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/advice/do-i-have-to-accept-a-smart-meter https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/consumers/household-gas-and-electricity-guide/understand-smart-prepayment-and-other-energy-meters/smart-meters-your-rights
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One lesson Acorn learned early on was the importance of second sourcing components so you weren't dependent on a single supplier for anything. That was well understood by the team that was spun off into Arm. So when the company started designing chips they used design rules that allowed almost any chip manufacturer/foundary to produce them. That made it a much easier sell to companies that wanted to make their own devices. At the time if you wanted to use an Intel processor on your chip then only Intel could make it for you.
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Moving oil fired boiler away from house
Temp replied to Roger440's topic in Boilers & Hot Water Tanks
If it's an outdoor boiler I don't think the condensate drain is likely to be coming out of the house. That might be the PRV outlet? -
"C White plastic ship lap. About £6 per sqm " That seems to be a good price. Most places I looked were more like £8-10 per sqm.
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- cladding
- shed cladding
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It's impossible to say how hard/easy it would be to get PP. There is a pub in the village next to us that caught fire and was sold about 7 years ago. New owner has been unable to get PP to change the place to residential use. It's been repaired but the planners have insisted that a certain amount of floor space be retained as a pub/bar (complete with toilets etc) although the owner is not obliged to ever open it to the public. The village is too small to sustain a pub and I don't even think he has an alcohol license anyway.
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+1 If you need "structural grade" oak you must make sure the sawmill knows that's what you need. Make sure it's written on the order. They might moan a bit but if you don't you might end up with a big knot right in the middle. You might also consider specifying "no sap wood". Sap wood can stay white while the rest of the oak goes a honey colour. Shop around as £340 a lot for three posts. This isn't planned so might end up too a bit too small but just for example.. http://www.uk-oak.co.uk/product/100_x_100_Air_Dried_Oak_Beams
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Some interesting comments in this article written last month whice I've only just seen.. https://www.pressreader.com/uk/the-herald/20170623/282132111446930 Apparently the fire certification for the Reynobond PE panels has the "CE mark indicated" but "on closer inspection it transpires that it is only Reynolux - the aluminium skin - which is CE approved". The BBA certificate (which I think is still valid) apparently says "For resistance to fire, the performance of a wall incorporating this product, can only be determined by tests from a suitably accredited laboritory and is not covered by this certificate." eg The BBA haven't approved it for use on walls (of any height?).
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If the concrete is slightly bigger than the shed then rain can land on the surrounding concrete and run or be blown under the walls. To prevent this you can either: a) Make the slab the exact size of the shed with the top above ground level or b) After laying the slab put the shed on a course of engineering bricks and a DPC (but there is a problem at the door). Any other good ways to solve this issue?
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Need a bit of care if you plan to put putting some insulation above and some between joists/rafters. If you put lots of insulation between the rafters the temperature at the top of the rafter will fall possibly leading to condensation at that point. I forget what the rule of thumb is but it's something like put 2/3rds above and no more than 1/3rd between. Perhaps someone else can comment.
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- flat roof
- interstitial condensation
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Probably cheaper to go direct to a local glass merchants. Make templates out of plywood and tell them what it's for. I think the glass should be toughened glass and have a BS Kitemark or CE mark on each pane to meet building regs. You might consider specifying Optiwhite or "low iron" glass which is slightly less green at exposed edges but costs a bit more.
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Thanks for the tips as I have a similar issue to sort out.
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I recognise Deuren is Flemish for doors. That got me interested as the best quality doors I've ever seen were at a self build show in Brussels. They say.. Something like 80% of new houses in Belgium are self builds and the Europeans do seem much more quality conscious than your average UK house builder/buyer so I wouldn't be surprised if their European doors are very good. Perhaps go visit them?
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+1 You really need to make the floor as rigid as possible to minimise the risk. I'd lift the chipboard and install noggins (got any JJI joists left?) then replace the chipboard with two layers of 18mm plywood with staggered joints all screwed down on 200 mm centers. Drill clearance holes for the screws so they don't pry the ply layers apart.
