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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. Temp
    250C... http://sinolec.co.uk/en/ceramic-lamp-holders/1211136-bc-b22d-porcelain-lamp-holder-k567.html
  2. Temp
    I found a ceramic holder that claims they are suitable for upto 210C. But it's not quite the right type... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CERAMIC-BAYONET-BC-CAP-BC-22-High-Temperature-Lamp-Bulb-Holder-/262946776986
  3. Temp
    I doubt the stove maker will be able to help. I think your best bet is to get the stove installed, fire it up and measure the air and surface temperatures where the lights will be installed. Then find lights that are rated for that environment. I doubt you will find lights that are specifically rated for use close to a wood burner, not because it's difficult to make lights to go there but because they don't test lights for suitability in in every imaginable location.
  4. Temp
    The method your builder suggests is pretty common.
  5. Temp
    That makes a lot of sense. If there is a stat in the top heater it will only actually come on if the water previously heated by E7 has already been used.
  6. Temp
    Gosh that's rough. If selling your current house would raise money then presumably you have some equity in it. Perhaps consider a second mortgage on that place? Might be faster than selling it?
  7. Temp
    Nick may correct me but I thought that with a dual immersion the top one was the "normal" element and the lower one was the boost? The idea being that hot water rises so the tank heats from the top downwards. So normally only the top element is used and only the top part of the tank is heated. Then if you know demand will be higher you turn the bottom one on so it heats down to a lower point.
  8. Temp
    Most patio doors and windows are custom made to fit the opening. I can't be sure from the photo but I wondered if the doors were short in height and the installer made them up to the right height using another section of UPVC? Edit: Perhaps the maker has cross sectional drawings on their web site?
  9. Temp
    My understanding is that it's the "person carrying out the work" that is responsible for compliance with the Building Regs. That might be the home owner in some cases but most reputable window installers claim to be "competent person scheme members" (such as FENSA) and I would hope their rules require their members to do the necessary paperwork.
  10. Temp
    Our council wrote to us out of the blue saying they will assume we will be complete on a date and proposing to charge us from that date. We wrote back telling them the date we believed we would finish and they just accepted it. I think it took us at least 6 months to get from first fix to completion.
  11. Temp
    Tricky one. Approved Document Part M (below) has clauses that typically require the front door of a new house to have a level access but this doesn't usually apply to existing houses or other doors. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/540330/BR_PDF_AD_M1_2015_with_2016_amendments_V3.pdf However there is a clause in Part M that says .. M4(1) says.. So you would have to argue that the work they did has made it significantly "less compliant" with M4(1). However that clause is pretty vague so I wouldn't hold out much hope, especially as the steps already make access difficult. Not to mention that Part M doesn't say anything about the sill height of a patio door so that would be legal on a new house. Replacing windows is notifiable building work these days. So was the job notified to Building Control and did you get any paperwork when the job was done? If not then that might give you more leverage with the company.
  12. Temp
    Don't mention the war! I mentioned it once, but I think I got away with it, all right.
  13. Temp
    As far as I can tell what kills trees is the trench dug for the foundations not the floor construction. Our garage is near a tree and we had to use piled foundations rather than strip.
  14. Temp
    That's here.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1990/8/section/56 (4)In subsection (2) “material operation” means— (a)any work of construction in the course of the erection of a building; [F2(aa)any work of demolition of a building;]
  15. Temp
    Google found this case... http://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/news/15368589._Ludicrous__twist_in_father_s_four_year_garage_battle_sees_approval_for_replacement_shipping_container/ They originally told him the container would need PP according to a report a month earlier.. http://metro.co.uk/2017/05/18/man-puts-passive-aggressive-shipping-container-in-his-front-yard-6645350/
  16. Temp
    Definitely get all the CIL stuff done first. One of the requirements of that process is submitting a commencement of development notice. So get any planning conditions sorted. Decide on a date when you will officially start and get the CIL and demolition paperwork in. However don't actually start demolition until you get the paperwork back from the council even if that date passes. https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/1app/forms/form_7_self_build_part_1_exemption_claim.pdf
  17. Temp
    Guide on what to include in a D&A from Devon.. http://www.devon.gov.uk/design-and-access-statement.pdf
  18. Temp
    Note: My D&A was written 10 years ago and things have changed a bit since. These days they like developments to be "sustainable" but I'm not talking about it being green. The council consider it sustainable if there are already the public services in place to support the extra people that will live in the house so they don't have to provide new ones. So if favourable to your case you can describe in the D&A the availability of local services such as school places, shops, doctors and dentists, playgrounds and how you could get to them (ideally using existing public transport). If you have to drive either don't mention that or point out that you have provided car parking spaces and that the routes aren't congested. Beware that if the local school is at capacity the planners might want a Section 106 contribution towards the cost of providing additional classroom capacity (even if you have no children).
  19. Temp
    Here is our Design and Access Statement. Its the reduced resolution version off the planners website because the original is a rather large file. Design_and_Access.pdf
  20. Temp
    Hope you haven't told the planners it was a paddock. In planning terms there is a world of difference between a paddock and a garden. A paddock is agricultural land. A garden is residential land. If it's a paddock/agricultural land then your planning application needs to include "change of use" and might be a lot harder to obtain. If it's clearly part of the garden of an existing house then you don't need to apply for change of use and it might be a lot easier.
  21. Temp
    Toolstation have the Lumberjack for £20/ 5L but I've never used it. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p34502?mkwid=sAM1KnhMB_dc&pcrid=189687010201&pkw=&pmt=&product=34502&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi97NBRD1ARIsAPXVWWCAmCkS
  22. Temp
    That's correct but it means anyone on the flat rate scheme is out of pocket if they take on zero rated jobs. Earlier I posted a comment I found on an accountancy site that suggested companies that regularly do zero rated work should avoid the flat rate scheme for that reason.
  23. Temp
    Actually the smaller one appears to be fitted from the inside as well.
  24. Temp
    Just had a look at the assy drawing for my Toro and it has 2 filters in the hydro unit. The small one is £12 in the UK and the larger is £41-£48. Never seen/noticed any references to these in the servicing. The larger one appears to be buried inside the unit and I think would be a big job to replace.
  25. Temp
    +1. Have a close look at the wording of the PM's quote. I had a few quotes that were for the right amount (eg no VAT had been included) but they were printed on a standard template letter that stated "inc VAT at 20%".
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