Temp
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Everything posted by Temp
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Not sure if this helps unless you can beat them down from £2000 to £1700 http://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/info/20158/business_rate_reductions/758/non-domestic_business_rates_and_empty_properties Extracts.. Does your planning permission have any conditions that might prohibit occupation until a hut is erected? Does the design of each hut have to be approved for example?
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What happens if the hutter isn't running their hut as a small business?
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I also like Osmo but agree they can be expensive. The advantage that many "oils" and "waxes" have over "varnish" comes when you need to recoat them. Typically if a patch of varnish deteriorates or wears through then when you sand and recoat that patch remains visible or more visible than it does with oils and waxes. I'm in the process of sanding off a lot of Danish Oil on oak that has been neglected. I'm replacing it with one coat of Rustins Danish to darken the white oak to a light honey colour and then two coats of the Osmo Clear UV Protection Oil. Does look great. Hope it lasts longer than Danish oil as it's about four times the price.
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Stumbled across this page which has DIY tips and tricks for boring short holes under pavements and the like for services. http://www.askthebuilder.com/tunneling-under-sidewalks-and-driveways/
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If you use a good quality roofing membrane then it can be left exposed for a few months. I used VP400 and some of it was exposed six months with no apparent ill effect.
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Actually you might get away with it if just pumping water from a basin rather than a toilet. Would a soakaway be an option?
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Water to the garden building should be no problem. Just bury a length of MDPE pipe deep enough that it won't freeze in winter. Bring it up inside the building and perhaps use a pipe heater on a frost stat or turn off the water and drain fittings in winter? I don't think you can use a saniflow. See the "can" and "cannot" links on this page.. http://www.saniflo-pumpshop.co.uk/golden-rules-click-ordering/
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+1 Just remember... as you shuffle your bottom backwards along the roof concentrating on the ridge tiles... look behind you every now and again :-)
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Not sure about concrete tiles but for clay you sometimes need three types of tile.. Standard Tile and a half (for the verge) Eaves tiles (used at ridge and eaves) Sorry of you know this.
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I'm an electronics engineer not an Electrician but... I think the exact set up depends on how the house is earthed but the most likely configuration would be something like... MCB in house CU -- Junction box --- SWA to garden building ---- SWA to shed In each outbuildings there would be a "Garage CU" containing an RCD and two MCB (1 lighting, 1 power) and an earth rod. Using the calculator at the TLC web site and an overall length of 32m.. 2.5mm^2 is ok up to 4kW 4mm^2 is ok up to 6kW 6mm^2 is ok up to 10kW Going up a cable size adds about £20 to the cost of a 50m reel.. Cable would be 2 core SWA (if the earth isn't exported from the house and earth rods are used). Would be 3 core if the earth can be exported. I put outside lights on my shed operated by a PIR. If you want a light on the shed that can be switched from the house end you might want an extra core or two? I used 3/8" polyprop rope to pull ours through. If you leave enough rope at the CU end you can pull the cable through AND leave the rope in the duct for future use.
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In the end I couldn't really justify a Festool (>£450) and went for totally the opposite end of the range and got a 1500W Silver Storm 180mm sander/polisher for £42 off ebay. Been using 40 grit and it's made short work stripping 10 years worth of Danish Oil off a load of exterior oak posts and beams. So far I've done the equivalent of about 30 meters of 200mm square. Seems to be standing up to the hard work. Edit: Main problem is stopping my goggles misting up.
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Google Pestplug comes in 10 foot (and 25 foot) rolls.
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Screwfix has two mowers that use Briggs & Stratton engines and might be worth a look... McCulloch M46-140WR at £199 (although see one negative review). Mountfield SP185 at £250 Amazon have a big 21" (530mm) Lawn-king (which I've never heard of) also with a Briggs & Stratton for £299. Perhaps look at a second hand Honda mower Izy? Things I would check on any mower... * The size of the bag. Some are supplied with small bags but they sell optional bigger ones. * The ease of getting the bag off when it's full. Many mowers have a deadman handle so you have to stop the mower, empty the bag, pull start it again. * The height adjuster. Some are a bit flimsy and require three levers to be moved, one for the rear wheels and one each for the fronts.
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Can't tell from the photo but sometimes the shear pins fail allowing the blade to rotate on the shaft and "ride up" over the broken pins making it a funny angle. I purchased a Honda powered "unbranded" mower from a DIY store when we were living abroad some 20 years ago. Engine has been faultless despite it never being serviced. Well I think I changed the oil once and perhaps cleaned but not replaced the air filter a few times. I don't know if there is anything like this still being made. Perhaps have a look in some of the UK DIY stores. Only problem is the deck is now starting to rust through. One advantage of a real Honda mower like the IZY is that you can get replacement decks for them if you really wanted (just over £100 on ebay).
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Kick-starting the week
Temp replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Constant struggle to get our kids to drink enough. One played a 7's rugby tournament in 28C heat last Thursday, next day he did a 21km sponsored walk. Saturday he wakes up complaining of a headache. No surprise. -
We have a 100cm Britannia dual fuel (2 electric oven, 6 LPG rings). I think if I was restricted to 90cm I would consider a large single oven rather than a double - or at least go and see if the ovens on a double are wide enough for you. My wife likes cooking and we have kids so ours has been in heavy use since we got it. Lasted 9 year before an element and a door seal failed. Both readily available online and was easy to fix myself. The door seals are pretty standard on all cookers. Still cleans up like new. Think I would buy one again.
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UFH pipe literally sandwiched between mesh...a problem?
Temp replied to mvincentd's topic in Underfloor Heating
I've no idea if this is a real issue but some 12 years ago one or two UFH suppliers also told us there was a potential issue when cable tying pipe to the mesh. They were concerned about the cut ends of the rods that make up the mesh so perhaps it would be better to run the pipe as per the green rather than the red ? -
The planners would have 10 years to initiate enforcement action. If they failed to do so in that time they could no longer enforce the condition. At that point you could apply to have the condition discharged on the grounds that it's un-enforcible but I expect there is a fee for that :-)
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Google starts selling vertical GSHP according to... http://money.cnn.com/2017/07/07/technology/google-dandelion/index.html
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If you have a good Honeywell agent in Swansea they do a remote sensor (10k Thermistor) for the CM901/907 range of stats. http://www.honeywelluk.com/Documents/Easy-User-Guide/pdf/Outside Temperature Sensor Product Specification.pdf
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Just for info that also uses a 10k thermistor.
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Just back from searching a wheat field in 27 degree heat for the Samsung one of my kids dropped on a sponsored walk so just a bit knackered but... Not sure what that is. Perhaps a thermocouple rather than a thermistor? Differently beasts. If you are going to use the I-108 it needs to be 10k not 15k or the temperature settings will be around 20C out. It might be possible to change a resistor or two on the I-108 to correct for this but the data sheet doesn't have a circuit diagram.
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Had a look at the I-108 data and is says it needs a 10KOhm NTC thermistor. Think that's same as Heatmiser stats. Annoyingly Maplin don't seem to stock them (strange). Rapid have Probes.. https://www.rapidonline.com/atc-semitec-103at-11-ip67-10k-precision-ntc-thermistor-probe-with-600mm-lead-61-2040 https://www.rapidonline.com/atc-semitec-103at-11-50081-ip67-10k-ntc-thermistor-probe-with-1500mm-lead-61-2041 Bare thermistors.. https://www.rapidonline.com/tks-dht0a103f34d3sy-10k-3435k-1-axial-glass-ntc-thermistor-55-1229 https://www.rapidonline.com/tks-ttc05103jsy-10k-5-radial-straight-lead-ntc-thermistor-55-1259 Film.. https://www.rapidonline.com/tks-ttf3a103f34d3ay-10k-1-insulation-film-type-ntc-thermistor-55-1265 Think any would probably work just a case of ease of mounting and response time.
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Payment using a credit card - loophole?
Temp replied to RandAbuild's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
It appears Lloyds only appealed to the Lords about the ruling on overseas transactions and that was rejected meaning overseas transactions are covered under S75. https://www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/ld200607/ldjudgmt/jd071031/lloyds.pdf I haven't yet found details of an appeal to the Lords on the four party connected lender liability issue. -
Payment using a credit card - loophole?
Temp replied to RandAbuild's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Have done some more digging and found this court case care of another forum.... http://www.bailii.org/ew/cases/EWCA/Civ/2006/268.html Its a judgement from 2006 involving the OFT and some credit card companies (Lloyds, Tesco, Amex). It looked at transactions involving four parties (you, the seller, the credit card co and an intermediary) as well as transactions abroad. They concluded... It's interesting that Amex supported the view that section 75 applied to four party transactions. They only objected to it being applied abroad. So that might suggest Amex are more likely to pay up under section 75 than other card suppliers. So unless this judgement has been overturned at a higher court it seems clear that you are covered when an intermediary is involved.
