Leaderboard

I sanded the board to rough it up a bit, then primed it. Stuck tray down with tile adhesive. 4 trays done and no issues so far.

This is so easy hire a whacker from shop A, start at top and when you get to the bottom phone up and off hire it, when the bod turns up to collect it just point at the bottom of the hill and say there you go chummy. Repeat until all local hire shops have refused to serve you. Easy peasy.

I would remove the insulation, without it forming a fully insulated slab it will do nothing to help heat loss i would get a concrete slab down and then build your building and then insulation on top of your concrete and put a floating timber floor on top of that. Pictures would help, don’t worry we won’t bite, much.

That it doesn't exist will not stop Oxford City enforcing on you for not having one .

Clean up the edges around the hinge cut outs, then cut and fit slim graving pieces of wood to fit, glue them in with a decent adhesive, like one of the quick setting polyurethanes, then sand back and fill any slight imperfections. Filler is likely to chip and crack with time, and it's much easier to do the repair now, whilst you have good access with the door off.

Rope and pulley to wind the wacker up and down the slope? DON'T use round gravel. It will roll like marbles. you need crushed irregular shaped gravel that will bind together.

I think that metal studs are going to work much better. They do a 50mm I stud which is good for an independent wall. If you can add resilient bars the sound proofing would be even better and with these each side it would take another 30mm or so. The acoustic matting is good but heavy and expensive.

Apparently so! I've been asked for one by Oxford City Council on a 2 year HMO license. I have a certificate book for fire alarms but much of that has stuff regarding larger more complex systems. Anyway I have booked in someone to do it for £50 so will see what he does..

The important bit is really whether or not the connections are accessible or not. If connections are going to be permanently hidden away inside structure, then they need to be maintenance-free connections, if not, then ordinary interconnections, like screw terminals, can be used. Screw-type terminations aren't classed as maintenance-free, so cannot be buried inside stuff, unless there's some sort of access cover to get at them for inspection and test. Wago connectors are classed as being maintenance-free, as they don't use screws, so are OK for use in places like this, as long as they are enclosed in a suitable box, with cable strain relief. FWIW, I pretty much exclusively use Wago connectors, mainly as they are just so quick and easy to use. Being maintenance-free is just a bonus.

You can just use a Wago box, with some 222s: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wagobox-junction-box/7355f

When I fitted ours I just put a shallow back box in the wall behind the mirror, recessed more than normal so that a flex outlet plate could be set back a bit and not hit the back of the mirror. T&E runs to the box and plate and the flex from the mirror is terminated and secured by the plate. Something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-25a-unswitched-flex-outlet-plate-white-with-colour-matched-inserts/89178

Put it inside and make a waterfall feature out of it? some nice forest scene wallpaper behind it and sorted!

I am not sure there is any option in Scotland but to use your local council for building control. But you are not talking about building control, you are talking about structural warranty. I am sure you aware that a portable building like this, may not need building control at all, if it fits within the legal dimensions of a "caravan" which it sounds like it will if it arrives on site as one unit. Building control will be needed for any drainage connection or treatment system.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113257154128

No just a right angle I think Dewson stock them now I have two Ukraine tapers that work for me full time and they won’t use anything else They cover much easier I’m thinking of training a monkey to put them on Simply wet the back and stick Weve just used them on three TF houses that are having issues with cracking But they wanted them skimmed

Just for you @Mr Punter ! What a pita it was . Working on a bank holiday that’s dedication ; vent above shower ?

Just wait to see if/when you receive notification from the Planning department about an application having been submitted. As mentioned before, as the proposals would connect onto your your wall, the neighbour would have to serve notice on your prior to or upon submission of the application to which you will have 21 days to comment. If you do not receive a notice, get in contact with the Planning department direct because the applicant may in the background tell and confirm to them that none of his development will physically connect to yours. To get around this, he may look at retaining a small gap between the edge of this so-called balcony and your wall and in effect create a cantilever. If the neighbour proceeds with the works without Planning, then you’d be in your right mind to get in contact with the Council. They would request an application be submitted or advise enforcement action will be taken.

Dulux decorators centre anti crack acrylic caulk, as recommended by our contractors who swear by this stuff. I tried loads and even paid more for postage than product in buying the one recommended in the monthly builders magazine. Think it was made by Dunlop and my paint still “crackled” over this.What the lads do is prime with B.I.N as this covers anything, is tough, easy to use and ready for a coat after approx 40 mins. I am painting my kitchen cabinet doors and these products are working well.

Unless you look after it decking can get pretty darn slippery. There is a reason sailors are always scrubbing the deck in old pirate movies.

You'll get a more informed reply from any number of other members, but that doesn't sound like much insulation. If you don't want to disturb your sub base, maybe raise the slab a bit to accommodate some more?

Welcome, and don't think of them as mistakes, think of them as part of the learning experience ?

Depends what the building structure is.? How wide are the edges ..?

I used mine for gaps just like those.

I have used some supposedly overpaintable stuff and the paint grins through. Have had to use a coat of Cover Stain to stop it.

I would, you used to when you closed the cavity with a block, but now most of it has changed to plastic cavity closers i think any chance of moisture bridging should be avoided.

Do you know if the concrete floor has a damp course? In some older houses they laid bitumen on Concrete as a damp course so make sure before you remove it. I think bitumen is difficult to glue to. However wood block flooring used to be laid on/glued down using bitumen.

The silane based wood floor adhesives work on most substrates. You do not require underlay, the blocks need to be fully stuck down. Ask the adhesive supplier for advice. It is expensive stuff. Wood blocks are easy to mess up, so do your research and prep.

Have you looked at OSO Delta Coil. This claims to be the only A - rated HW cylinder available in the UK. I went for the 250 litre version. Although I have no detailed measurements, it appears to lose approx 1 degree overnight. https://osohotwater.co.uk/product/delta-coil/

is there a reason for soundproofing, are you having a @pocster type room/dungeon? ⛓️ ?

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Nice. I will now be able to feel good at the thought of you soaping yourself steam free.

Stick it on the BH market place! You may even beat @pocster 's attempt in selling his walk on windows! But seriously, you could put up a free ad on gumtree and just keep renewing it. You'll be surprised at the interest you may get. I managed to sell all my old UPVC windows and some were very un-standard in size. Depends on what price you are looking at of course.