SiBee

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  1. Interested myself so a quick google and they are a concrete ready mix company which serves the Manchester area. Bit far for you😄
  2. I agree with ScottishJohn. I think one of the posters on here does this for a living so he may respond, Nod I think is the poster. I have just boarded my kitchen and in the back of my mind I thought that my stud walls are supported at 400mm centres so dot n dabbed accordingly. Not doing a large area and 25kg bag of addy was only £10 so I went over the top. Walls are solid when the addy sets.
  3. I will be tiling our kitchen very soon. I will be replacing the arcs and skirting first and then tiling up to these as a known good, level edge.
  4. Backer boards and stuff? I have used marmox and orbry boards from pureadhesion and tilefixdirect, have a look on their sites. I found them via the tilers forums.
  5. Can also be sourced from all the usual diy and plumbers merchants. Ask for a washing machine valve. It looks like a 3/4” bsp thread, it’s nothing unusual 👍
  6. Have you spoken to frame manufacturers who supply commercial sites? Not near your sizes but I am having new windows installed in our office block and the aluminium frames are being manufactured in Blackburn by a company called Alufolddirect Ltd. They supply frames and glass to trade and public and have worked on large builds. Worth a call
  7. It’s good to read the replies from the posters above, top tips. My previous attempts at regrouting have left chips in tile edges and I have steady hand. Just something to think about before going in all going ho. Tried Stanley blades, grout removal tool, various engineers picks, multi tool and old screwdrivers. Now,I try to protect the grout from new with protection fluids to delay the need as long as possible.I also try to avoid white grout and black!
  8. We live in a typical not so new build (2001) in the north west. We have this too. Only Remember this being a problem for the last year or so. The tap in the utility (little use) also gets black “bits” hanging out of the spout and the nozzles in the drench shower head constantly expel gooey black stuck and this is used 4 times a day. Ambient temps and the season make no difference. I friend moved up the road last year from a different county and the black gooey toilet line was the first thing he commented on. I have two exposed cisterns (back to wall pans) and one insulated concealed. Same phenomenon in all three.
  9. Will most likely Stick to rads tbh as I do understand what you guys have said. It’s good to explore the alternatives though as they are out there. I find it fascinating discovers the options and our trades just seem so locked into sticking to what they already know. The living room we are looking at is two steps below everywhere else, intentionally so. I would want to build this up level so under floor heating would work here To free up wall space.
  10. I thought Crosswater was a respected brand! The plated metal stuff in my bathroom is crosswater and looks and feels quality. Not very old though. All came in very fancy padded boxes and packaging. I know your paying for this and it only ends up in the bin anyway. I have a mixture of AXA crosswater, grohe, bauhaus, Kudos and Hudson Reed in our two bathrooms all expensive stuff but the quality is there. The downstairs toilet/ kitchen (over five years old now) are ideal standard and Bristan and again good stuff which still looks new. I did a friends bathroom with all budget stuff and it didn`t have the same "feel" but he and his partner wouldn`t appreciate the differences.
  11. Hopefully we will be in the same position as you as we have an offer on a bungalow which was built in 1960. Have you looked at Wunda heating? They have retro fit systems. Hope the mention is okay as the company has had many mentions on the site? I have no affiliation, but the system seemed a good idea and I am sure other companies offer the same. Ripping out concrete floors is not an option for us so would stick with rads if under floor didn’t work out.
  12. We have Amtico spacia (slate) in a newly refurbished bathroom thinking it to be a good alternative to tiles. I can see surface scratches in it already and we don’t use this bathroom. Really disappointed. Put solid oak flooring in the living room and diner over ten years ago. Looks nice but I have signs of water damage and board movement where a plot pot was leaking. Heel marks and scuffs from stuff under shoes can be seen and bleaching from the sun where rugs are down looks horrible. In reality, I am not going to sand the flooring. So for us and our experiences we will be trying engineered and laminate flooring. Our estate agent said most buyers wouldn’t even notice the flooring as real oak. For what we paid in oak could have paid for a few new laminate floors. Some of samples of modern laminate we have are really good.
  13. Post resurrection! would any of you chaps know what spraying equipment you would use for paint suitable on upvc? I am thinking of spraying some older window frames (exterior) and some of the companies who do this sort of work are confident that next to no overspray is produced.
  14. Was my first thought. Too many corners to turn for conveyor belts I think. I mentioned closer than 5m to the building as I thought this would have an impact? Soak away must be in excess of 5m from dwelling? Sorry OP for going off topic. I will be back for help if we complete on the purchase though
  15. If your so bored then the bungalow we have put an offer on has an outdoor swimming pool in the back garden. It’s within 5m of the building and access to the rear is restricted to a width less than 1m. Feel free to formalise a plan of how to fill it in and put this in action👍