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https://www.toolstation.com/universal-adaptor-kit/p74886 This adaptor enables the connection of 25mm MDPE pipe to 22mm copper and push fit plastic pipes.

Crack on, build to current standards take lots of photos and tell the council nothing.

Just seen this highlighted on a tax & finance email I get, and couldn't see it mentioned here yet https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-diy-housebuilders-scheme-digitisation-of-claims-and-extending-time-limit/vat-digitisation-of-claims-and-extending-time-limit-for-diy-housebuilders-scheme From 5th Dec 2023 apparently: * The time limit (I think for all claims) will be 6 months from completion, not 3 * There'll be the option to claim online (which presumably will also let you see status etc) * They will apparently no longer require all the invoices at the time of submitting the claim. I assume that will put things on a similar footing to businesses, where they might inspect some claims/ask for a random sample of evidence, and potentially impose penalties etc if they discover you've claimed something you shouldn't have - they don't spell out exactly how that will work. So would still be important to make sure you have & have checked all the invoices, but no longer the need/risk to post off all the originals to HMRC and hope they arrive...

not sure if anyone has mentioned this but I thought I would just in case.... ...this evening as I was sat at my computer a flood alert came in via email and I was wondering why I didn't get a push notification on my phone and watch. I went to the Shelly app only to get a message as it started that the old app is now deprecated and a new app is to be used. probably why I didn't get any push notifications. I downloaded the new app and tested the flood sensor and notifications popped in to life. I'm not a regular Shelly user and have only the one device so very rarely checked the app. if anyone else is like me and doesn't live by their Shelly app it may be worthwhile double checking it's all working.

I might as well just upload what i did, i'm sure it'll help! I've redacted my address from the doc and drawings. Building Regulation Specification Redacted.pdf nwtc.01.pdf

My advice was also flawed. However when you use UFH the floor temperature is increased. The water through the pipes could be up to 45 degs and the floor temperature will settle out at a higher temperature than the room. Well insulated it could be 2 to 4 degs warmer than the room. Other cases could be higher floor temperature. When using the calculation you need to take floor temp into account for downward heat loss, not the room temperature. So a room temp of 20 - ground 6 degs. 14dT. No under floor heating downward heat loss is room temp, ground temp difference against overall floor U values including carpets and underlay. With UFH Floor temp to ground difference. So very good insulation your temp may be 24 for a 20 deg room, so already 18% greater downward heat loss. The more insulation the floor covering provides the warmer the floor becomes as the heat has to overcome the upwards resistance before getting to the room. Flow temperature is a balance of upward and downward heat profile. So heat losses could be in 30 to 40 range compared to radiators if you are not careful.

Following my no electronics principle means only conventioal hard wired. Exceptional reliability proven over many decades. You are are welcome to put a bunch of poorly designed and manufacted, soon to be obsolete electronics in your house.

You want something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-492113-mdpe-reducing-coupler-25mm-x-20mm/14632 I think what you have is mdpe to copper.

Or look at one of the Panasonic TVs (e.g. TX-65LZ2000B) ace sound quality no sound bar required.

Link to the part please? Exactly what is it described as? And what are you trying to join to what? 25mm mdpe to 20mm mdpe? If so it looks nothing like I would expect.

I have a SIP built Home Office in the very windy Northumberland, which is built in my back garden on screw piles (12 of them x 1.75 meters long). They were installed in less than a day, before the Home Office was built. It's not moved, or blown away including during Storm Arwin a couple of years ago which caused a lot of damage throughout the region.

If you are posting concrete, use a vibrating poker in the concrete, multi tool vibrating the shutter or electric sander vibrating the shutter to ensure no air voids and to get the max strength

I would go for this: You will need to chop a bit out of the bottom block to get the rest bend out at about 45 degrees to the wall.

Here's what I would do (as long as you can rod from the outside to reach the bend): replace the vertical bend (bottom of soil stack) with a rest bend, and replace the second horizontal bend with a sweeping long one. You might need a 15 angle connector further down the soil pipe if that puts it too far away from the wall, but then it's OK. I'd then PIR around it as closely as possible, PU foam any gaps as much as possible, cut it flush, stick a membrane over the top and then screed over that.

I have no idea about Scotland regs but I can’t see any problem storing some timber, insulation and plasterboard around the inside of a shed, and occasionally doing some work in there.

These are the labels I use

Our claim is with the Self Build Accountant that specialises in these things. He is just waiting for our BCO to issue the completion certificate. We missed the certificate by a whisker before Christmas when he went on holiday

I guess the reasoning was that 55 is good enough for a HP swap and guarantees condensing and to go any lower would result in push back from the industry/climate deniers/right wing press/party donors to the point where the rule risk being put on hold altogether. Politics is the art of the possible and 55 will do, its good enough that you can reasonably swap for a HP without upgrading the space heating. If you've designed for 55 the primaries must be large enough to operate at 55. Personally I think its an excellent compromise and much better than might have been expected given the direction of the prevailing wind.

Mine certainly didn't operate on dT20, the circulation pump just modulates to get the dT the boiler controller wants to see. At flow temperatures of 40 to 50 the dT was the same as my heat pump - between 5 and 10.

Sounds like a good outcome. Well done!

Just as follow up, I had both fans replaced under warranty and also had the unit removed from the wall and hanged to the rafters as there was a considerable amount of noise to the neighbours, I could only hear it a bit in the landing at night and it didn't bother me as much. Now the unit is silent.

They view they provide is in theory quite an advantage particularly for rooms in the roof but they introduce unfortunate complexities when it comes to gutters/downpipes. Either you take your gutter across the window, or for every additional roof light with vertical element you must also add a downpipe. Wonder how they’re handling that in your example?

No, because the Weidmuller depth includes the 7mm of rail. So it's actually 83.9mm vs. 81mm and Weidmuller wins by 2.9mm. 🙂. Oops, now I sound like a Weidmuller fan-boy! In terms of labelling, do the blocks not support small clip in lables like these? I used this kind of thing, along with a lablel-holder per-block of terminals that clips into the top of the (shallower) end brackets to write "Blinds" or "5A lighting" etc. Will be bit harder to get blocks on/off any rails that are screwed directly to the back of the panel, but I assume still workable.

I have used Guttercrest for copings and they seem pretty good and reliable. You can probably drape some DPC under the copings for belt and braces.

If you have teenage children who like over-long showers, and a sufficiently Machiavellian mindset, is this an opportunity for lifetime indoctrination to short showers? Just asking .... 😇.

8.5kW at 230V is 37 amps. It will be the over current function that is tripping, not the RCD function. Replace it with a 40A rcbo.

That's the key bit, the installer having to come back and adjust. With gas boilers the installer can wind it up to max, and then the thermostat on/offs to control the temp. Which installer love because they don't have spend an hour to drive back to your house to twist a dial on the boiler. With HPs that leads to poor cop and low output which gives high running costs and not enough heat output. Ideally, the HP woiod be set up perfectly from day one, but realistically it will require a little tuning to get right. Users are used to a thermostat so we need a similarly simple interface. Maybe a simple dial with no temps just "warmer/colder" and the controller working things out from there. The controllers goal being to flow a temp sufficient that the user doesn't feel the need to fiddle the dial. If it consistently being turned up then in should adjust for a higher flow temp for those internal and external temps and vice versa

I've recently fitted some slotted concrete fence posts, I cut a couple and they had four lengths of rebar, one near each corner.

I have been incredibly fortunate! My installer, who I rate very highly, was able to convince LG that because of the expense of paying him to carry out a repair under warranty, which is very time consuming with a refrigerant leak, it was better to supply a new heat pump. So now I have the latest version of the Therma V with improved controls and I have to learn about all the new features. I still can't quite believe it.

+1 to all the contributions so far. I have built a MBC timberframe house and used an independent BCO. I started off by sending a full MBC design package, including SE Caculations and foundation design, asking to be advised of anything else that was required for BC approval. I received the following " Do you have a building regs specification as I need to do a plan check and comment on compliance with the building regs ..." I then responded "Not sure what you require for the "building regs specification" - can you please clarify for me? I have sent you a calculation and drawings package for the timberframe and the foundation. What else do you require and I will arrange to provide it? " He responded " with all jobs we normally see a detailedspecification to cover aspects such as fire/ means of escape. ventilation,staircase design etc the plans provided so far cover the structural aspectsand thermal requirements " I asked "Do you an good example that I could use to ensure that I cover everything and i will then quickly develop a detailed specification specific to Eastcroft?" I never received a response. So I did some research online, including Websites such as http://www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk and looked at what @JSHarris had done and what @Bitpipe was experiencing with questions from his BCO at the same time . I then proceeded to develop my Building Regulation Specification and sent it to the BCO with the following note " I have done some research, looking at similar documents, and produced the attached Building Regulation Specification for your review and comment. I have endeavoured to detail all the relevant information but if you require more detail the please advise and I will revise to meet your requirements It refers to various drawings, calculations and related documents (which I attach for your reference and convenience, as I have already submitted most of these documents to you before) and have included them all in one zipped folder for your convenience " I never received any nore questions or comments, though he did visit site on a few occaasions and I kept him updated with regular emails and photos. I requested approval of a couple of areas - proposals for fire/smoke detectors installtion and forjuliet balcony fixings - to which he responded and gave approval. I attach my Building Regulation Specification without the attachments. On reflection, it is not particulalrly good document and I could have included a lot more detail/definition of various systems. I thought that it would require updating with specific information, as the BCO asked questions but the questions never came and I never updated it... On the positive side, it did force me to read and understand all the Buiding Regulations as they applied to my build. Building Regulation Specification for new build house.pdf

How much do you want for the bath?

It’s not random . I’m turning it on / off for my amusement

On a lighter note. I was searching for Aquaflow's website to see details (none found). But I came across this from a similarly named business who are remarkably frank about their products. Aquaflowproducts.co.uk we are a wholesale distribution company who are involved in the distribution of spurious shower and water pump spare parts / spares