andyscotland

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  1. @zoothorn you can overlap the RHS and cut both sides (one straight one wiggly) as others have said, losing the tapered edge at the board joint (just means a bit more care to fill and sand that joint flush for painting). Or if you find that hard to conceive do my cardboard template then you can just cut the wiggly edge the appropriate distance from the TE factory edge.
  2. If/when you do we'll be early in the queue to book a trip!
  3. You could get a big bit of cardboard box and scribe onto that. Then cut it to shape, put it back in position and double check it and mark (or measure) where the straight, non-wall, edge overlaps with the plasterboard. Then you can put the plasterboard on the floor, put the card on top lined up to the correct width and use it to mark/cut the PB. Failing that, scribe the wall to the plasterboard as above, then put the plasterboard on the floor and use the same block to follow the line and scribe the offset wall line in the correct position. Also be careful with your plasterboard screws if you only have 15mm stud, I think better to put them in at a slight angle than to put them too close to the edge of the board.
  4. It can be... My knowledge from a work perspective is a good few years old now, but as I recall it was considered easier to show it wasn't reasonable to make adjustments for unaccompanied wheelchairs as their needs are quite substantial and the numbers of potential customers in that category very low. The advice I had was to decide what group(s) you felt you could reasonably service and then focus on making sure they had full access. And ideally write that up briefly so you can show a thought process if anyone asks. If you can demonstrate you've done everything possible for an accompanied wheelchair it's easier to justify not tackling barriers to unaccompanied. Similarly for blind/deaf/walking-mobility-impaired customers. On the plus side from travelling with my wheelchair-bound mother in law I know that there's actually quite a shortage of nice, especially rural, accessible holiday accommodation. So putting in a bit of thought now will help to open up a reasonably-sized market for your business and could well pay off.
  5. Yes - and indeed it's a legal requirement for a business to make reasonable efforts to be fully accessible to disabled people. There's some leeway if it's e.g. a historic building that cannot be adapted, but any business operating from new/purpose-built premises would be generally expected to be accessible regardless of building regs requirements. Of course this legislation isn't generally triggered by any sort of pre-emptive council inspection, but retrospectively if a disabled person complains they've not been able to use your services. So compliance and enforcement is somewhat sporadic, but nonetheless the legal duty (and potential for fines/enforcement) is there. It's worth considering whether you're likely to have an unaccompanied wheelchair user visiting, or whether other aspects of your site/layout/services etc mean it's reasonable to say it's only suitable for wheelchair users that travel with a companion/relative etc. The flat bit before the door is only really crucial if the wheelchair user is on their own as that means they need the brakes off to unlock and open the door but doing that on a slope is not possible. Someone with an able-bodied pusher would be fine with just a ramp. However it would probably not be reasonable to limit to accompanied wheelchair users if the ramp/flat section is the only issue - the expectation would be you'd think about that and design it out given there are widely accepted and fairly easy ways to resolve that problem on a new build. I'd review that too - the hot tub is probably fair enough as accessible bathing is a complex and somewhat expensive thing to address. But the sauna/grill house might need a reasonable explanation as to why it's not accessible if a guest were to complain they didn't have access to your full range of on-site services.
  6. Looking great! I'm out of date with your plans on this but assuming the PIR ends up sandwiched between wood/OSB on either side then yes I would maybe just use a bit of tape/double-sided tape to hold it in place while you get the next layer on and then that will clamp it in place when you screw it down.
  7. FWIW when I was a kid if I had a bookcase that opened to a hidden spiral stair to an attic playroom I would have *loved* it and doubtless been the envy of all my friends. It'd be a perfect treehouse/crow's nest/space station/whatever for younger imagination games and a brilliant hideaway as they get older. Depends on how much you value the trade-off of getting stuff up there (trapdoor and winch is not a bad workaround IMO, or just get everything flat pack and build in situ), and perhaps more importantly the fact it would undoubtedly mean you'd be hosting all the playdates for years to come!
  8. Good as new! (I hope). Will wait for it to set up and water test before I reinstate the floor. I'm thinking I will just put a piece of polystyrene in the gap where I've cut out the chipboard as the repair clip sits ever so slightly proud of the insulation. There's UFH overlay boards going on top and then laminate (and this will be inside a cupboard/below the CU anyway so not likely to get a lot of loading on that spot). When I finish the build I'm going to retrain as a keyhole surgeon. Thanks again for the life-saving advice folks.
  9. Nope, not remotely correct as I said in the second part of the post. The upstream connection it's measuring is the one from your house to the wider internet, nothing to do with what you're doing on the connection yourself. It sits beside the other devices on your network, same as any other device in the house, not in between them and the outside world. It does not / cannot see what websites you're accessing. Likewise it does not see passwords - even if you are sending them over an unencrypted connection which to be honest you shouldn't be anyway. If you send a password over https (as you always should) then nothing bar the browser on your computer and the remote server of the site you're accessing can see it. All that box does is make its own connections to the SamKnows servers to measure the download speed/upload speed/latency/jitter etc. It does not attempt to measure the performance of the connections from your own pc, although it does look at whether there is any traffic (equivalent to "is there a dial tone or is the line engaged") to identify good times to run its tests. It is functionally identical to your bash script, except it doesn't try to connect to Google and sends the results to SamKnows instead of a CSV file. And finally it doesn't send any of the data to a government department direct, it sends it to SamKnows. They provide various reports based on aggregate stats e.g. " BT lines in this area are 95% reliable/have an average speed of XMb/have good download speed but too much jitter to be usable for video calls".
  10. I'd generally be cautious too, but the SamKnows one is part of a programme working with Ofcom/ISPs and only collects data on your upstream connection - their business model is they're funded by providers and regulators to research and report on connection quality. They're not e.g. selling data for advertising (which many of the commercial broadband monitoring sites do). The box is basically equivalent to a raspberry pi or similar running on your network and regularly running the same kinds of tests your bash scripts are but more sophisticated and with better visualisation of the results. And sending the connection stats back to them for overall analysis of how the different providers compare. It's not directly monitoring your own connections, where you're browsing, etc - it watches to see if there's activity on the network so that it can schedule it's tests when you're not using it (to avoid the test affecting your download speed/streaming or vice versa) but that's it. I haven't looked at the current version of the box, but the one we got a couple of years ago was internally just a dumb ethernet hub with the analytics hardware on one of the spare connections so it really couldn't see anything other than "is the network in use at the moment". In other words it sat alongside your connection, not as a "man in the middle". I think the code it runs was open source too, though my memory is hazy there.
  11. @ProDave you could also take a look at https://samknows.com/solutions/consumers - it's a free monitoring box, if you fit the statistical sample of providers/connections/locations etc they're looking for and it captures pretty detailed and robust metrics that you get access to and can use to evidence a fault as well as feeding into their national monitoring program. We got one for my mother in law's last house a couple of years ago and it was very helpful in finally convincing BT there was an intermittent fault on the line. If they want you as a volunteer they post you a box and you plug it in and that's basically that.
  12. I guess at least if I did that I'd need less Type 1 this time as SWMBO would be quite happy to compact me into the hole... 😬
  13. @Russell griffiths @PeterW @Onoff THANK YOU! I am still kicking myself, but when I've finished that I'll get to work and get it fixed.... Depending how that was meant to read: a) OK then, biggest mistake so far, things having gone relatively well to date (let's not mention the GRP....) b) Good point, just as I regularly tell my son "it was a mistake" is no excuse for "accidentally" hitting his brother over the head, I'd better admit it was in fact somewhere between careless and reckless.... Clearly after I've fixed the pipe I'll mark the line of it on top of the wood, rather than just on the membrane below the wood..... And then pay attention when I'm driving screws! Either way 🤣 But still a bit 😭
  14. Oh sh*t. I have just made possibly the biggest mistake of my whole build. I have a wet floor shower drain set in the insulation layer of my floor (above the slab, below the chipboard). The pipe runs beneath the stud wall into the insulation layer of the adjacent room to the stack. I think I have just screwed a piece of chipboard flooring down into the top of the pipe. 😡😡😡😭😭😭 Is there any way to fix it? Could I somehow solvent weld a patch over the top (it's solvent weld pipe). Or do I have to dig out the whole pipe (which means lifting a chunk of glued and screwed floor and vapour membrane and even then having an awkward time joining the replacement pipe in - originally I made the whole shower drain / pipe / boss /stack section as a single unit and slotted it into the 110 in the floor before I built the wall over. I have a horrible feeling I know what the answer is... I could literally cry.
  15. How regular are the time/date stamps in your CSV file for the periods it was giving 1 but not working? My hunch is the issue is this bit `wget -q --tries=10 --timeout=20 -O - http://google.com > /dev/null` By default wget will gradually increase the delay between retries, I think starting at 1s increasing 1s at a time up to 10s. So the 10 retry waits themselves could take 55 seconds, and depending on the type of failure there could be up to another 200 seconds on the combined timeout of each request. I also vaguely recall wget can behave unexpectedly if a domain name resolves to more than one IP, which Google possibly does, as it may retry each IP address in turn (e.g. 10 retries * number of IPs). So it could be that it's failing for a fair period but the connection recovers in time for one of the retries to succeed and so it writes a 1. I'd set it to --tries=1 and probably drop the timeout much lower (benchmark what a "normal" response time from Google is and say triple it to give a bit of a margin - for most connections I'd think 2-3 seconds should be perfectly adequate).