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I need to trim this MVHR Inlet back by about 15mm. Currently, I'm (was) thinking that I need(ed) to fit a 'stop' of some sort inside the outlet, and then trim tight-up against that - .... unless there's such a thing a self-centring cutting thingamajig ..... meanwhile The BH Collective comes up trumps. Thats what I need @MikeGrahamT21, a depth stop attached to a cutter shaft (with a cutting blade on it) . Self-centring is a distraction . A problem shared is halved innit. Yer a star Mr Graham. Thanks. Thanks @twice round the block good idea, BUT ; we'd better keep @pocster away from one of those hadn't we.....

They're the flappy things on the top of the upstairs.

Why we live here.

'S almost as $hite as mine

I have just started to use one, quite expensive, but does seem to do a very good job. I intend to do one of my long term tests with it. Stick a bit of timber to a paving slab and see how well it stands up to the weather.

Ha. "arguably not" Let's count - Monitor - Desktop PC - Laptop charger - Second screen - Video conferencing camera - Speaker system (5 tiny speakers for computer, subwoofer) - Powered steering wheel - VR headset - Desk lamp - Desk lamp 2 - Server - Printer - Charger - Shredder - Google Assistant screen So that's 15. The rest is used on and off for chargers of various devices Clearly I'm somewhat of a computer nerd but I am sure this is not too unusual

I glued all the ground floor timber sole plates to the concrete floor in my last house. I used a gel PU glue which worked really well as it also expanded slightly to fill small gaps.

proof of postage? in terms of batteries they essentially just grab any spare energy which is grid bound, so the immersion will go first til it his temperature or end of schedule, and then the batteries will mop up anything thereafter, battery will always be the last thing to take energy and only if nothing else can be done with it

The end in mind is to 'countersink' the outlet such that the vent assembly sits sufficiently far above the finished ceiling to be clear of the opening door. To do that, I need to cut inside the outlet. Since I can't simply remove it, trim and replace it, I need to cut up inside' the outlet by about 12 mm. And then re-fit the vent. Making sure that cut is clean and level was exercising what's left of my brain.

Too busy pondering the elephant in the room.

No one commented on my studwork . I must be getting better 😁

CT1 Perhaps.

I’ve a mate who has 80 bricklayers working for him NW Here are his rates Block work 100 mil 22m2 BW 150 mil 28 m2 trench b 28 lin meter Face work 725 per 1000 Specials and detailing 18 per lin meter Hand mixing 50 per day per gang Pikes Extra 20% Hope this helps

Use some D4 or similar.

Take the frame apart and glue the bottom member to the floor with your chosen adhesive.

This is a fake dichotomy just like the Blake Lemoine sentient AI debacle. Even if an AI is 10x more intelligent and superior at solving a given problem than a human, that does not automatically impart human civil laws, rights and responsibilities onto it. An easy test is, if a super human intelligence alien landed in the UK, would they automatically be entitled to a driving licence? Sit university exams? Claim state benefits? Our laws of civilisation broadly exist to further the project of humanity, in a given country, on earth; we are not obliged to automatically give those rights to other species (super human aliens or robots) based purely on an excellent IQ test results. This is a ethical and legal debate just starting that continue long after we're all gone.

What's below the vent at ground level? Paving, grass? You could just locally lower the ground level as you suggest, backfill with pebbles up to 150mm to reduce splashing. What's stopping you from doing this? It would only need to be 200mm or so wider than either side of the vent. Drainage needed tho or it'll fill with water to ground level during heavy rain. Photos?

For now the human is the inventor and the writer of the AI should perhaps get the credit but also when it does wrong who takes the fall. This is exactly the problem the insurance world is looking at for driver less / self driving cars.

Absolutely fascinating to see the different heat performance results. My house is exactly the same size as @jack's but over one floor. So it seems it should be retaining heat much better than it is. I wonder what the best DIY approach to finding the heat leak is, some kind of heat camera? We currently have forced-air gas central heating, which has the advantage that it can heat the house from cold very quickly. I have it set to switch off automatically when the burglar alarm is armed. But want to replace or augment this with ASHP in the coming years.

Perhaps Ian could describe what he wants to cut and where?

This website is gorgeous 💕 Some great inspiration. https://www.themodernhouse.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=[src%3Ab] TMF | Brand-TKWs [skw]&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2fLDq8PO_AIVBtDtCh06mgcvEAAYASAAEgLZXPD_BwE

Good luck. Done be afraid to show us your plans in case you miss something obvious.

Not that good, the worse of the common radiator materials. Grey Cast Iron is 460 kJ.kg-1.K-1 Mild Steel is 510 kJ.kg-1.K-1 7068 Alloy is 1050 kJ.kg-1.K-1 The material thickness is more important, in the middle. Grey Cast Iron is 53 W.m-1.K-1 Mild Steel is 50 W.m-1.K-1 7068 Alloy is 190 W.m-1.K-1 Material density comes into it, not the most dense. Grey Cast Iron is 7150 kg.m-3 Mild Steel is 7850 kg.m-3 7068 Alloy is 2850 kg.m-3 With that information, the thermal effusivity [e] can be calculated.

Just something to check which may not apply if your Local Authority does not impose the Community Infrastructure Levy. If it does, then your new square meterage is over 100 m2 which would attract CIL and the need to apply for exemption. We are in a similar position ie double garage including granny flat area - all ground floor - 12 m x 9 m externally. As a point of interest if we decided to use the roofspace (albeit tight) and put in a staircase we would have to count this space which would incur CIL hassle (regarded as habitable space). However, if we use a loft ladder then the loft space is not counted! So many things to research and consider. You have probably already checked this out but worth a mention.

This needs proper commissioning. Get an OFTEC reg'd installer out and stop messing about with it yourself?

There are many people on this forum who are "handy" and advocate installing a heat pump yourself. My opinion is that your decision should be taken in context with what other contributions you will make to the house build; will you do your own plumbing for example?

Edit to add the requested pics,the last one is obviously from today. Wood etc was stripped before it was tumbled, I had it boarded over christmas because I was concerned a child could get in. The last pic was at the end when the discussion was re the fill and considering levelling up the garden at the front. Up to now you would need a rope on your back when using a lawnmower. The old driveway was to the front left but you would need a tractor to get up it. Total clutch wrecker. I will try and pull some footage too.

It's an interesting field. I once got in a big debate with a bunch of religious fundamentalists (pointless I know) who insisted that god must exist because how else could intelligence exist. I pointed out that, at the time, Genetic Algorithms were starting to be used to produce 'intelligent designs' by iterative techniques. They argued that it took a human intelligence to design the GA therefore anything produced by it was a product of human thought. But if the product is novel - something never before considered by a human thinker, it demonstrates that designs can appear to be derived intelligently but at the same time be decoupled from thought or intelligent consideration. It totally satisfied me anyway.

Could probably just about fit a coke bottle on its side in the eaves at the front, that's about it 😂 (hence wanting to get rid of the tank from its current space, storage is seriously non-existent and the planned works to extend the dormer will mean even less as the only bit of eave that is bigger than a mouse hole will be gone)

As @Temp says well insulated house with UFH heat pump will be cheaper to run. Heat pump give great efficiency if the flow temps are low. The thing with heat pumps the design needs to be well thought through. Your mentality needs to be different from normal gas, as they won't work that way without you needing a second mortgage. Your cylinder needs as big a coil as you can get 3m2 or better. Your run times for UFH or rads need to be long and low temp. Buffers will kill efficiency and so will lots of zones. Done right SCoP of over 4 should be achievable. If you want your heating on a couple of hours in short blasts and lots of zones, then gas maybe a better choice.

Your house is pretty much the same size as mine, although mine a single storey, so most likely a bigger heat loss; way more floor and roof to loose heat too. Whole house is done with 7 loops and one zone, pipes are on 300mm centres. Even before Christmas at -9 our flow temp was only 34 degs, housecat our chosen 19 degs. We have just over 500m of 16mm pert-al-pert pipes in the floor. Mine started with loads of zones and it just didn't work. Doing it again I would do 200 to 250mm centres to make the floor more responsive. Things to do A heat loss calc. Your max heat loss could be closer to 3 to 4kW. Download a copy of loopcad, and build your house and do a proper design your self. If you single zone or two zone with the correctly sized heat pump you should not need a buffer. Electric towel rads. Do bathroom at 150mm centres, you can get them warmer than the rest of the house on same flow temp. Or electric UFH. Once you know size of heat pump shop around, call people once you have internet prices, they will all try to beat others prices. I ended up buying a 6kW heat pump for £1300 the other day, from eBay, so there are bargains out there. Viesmann sell the same heat pump for over £4k.

Hi This image from another post on here gives you a good indication of your system:

Nothing looks immediately wrong other than it's is a presumably cold loft so heat losses will be greater and you need more insulation on ALL the pipes you don't want to be seeing any bare copper up there.

The HW cylinder and buffer appear to be in a cold loft space with minimal OEM insulation. Could this be why it struggles so much?

Inprovement from Building regs Airtightness Before 7ACH Gross Floor Area 150m2 After 0.6ACH MVHR Before 0% Efficiency 2 story 12m x 7.5m footprint After 90% Efficiency Triple Glazing Before 1.2 W/m2 (Glazing) (36.6m2) After 0.5 W/m2 (Glazing) Walls Before 0.21 W/m2K (210m2) After 0.13 W/m2K Roof Before 0.16 W/m2K (90m2) After 0.086 W/m2K Floor Before 0.21 W/m2K (90m2) After 0.106 W/m2K kWh/(m2/a) W/m2 75/42 AT AT/MV AT/MV/3G AT/MV/3G/W AT/MV/3G/W/R Airtightness 48/20 XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX MVHR 60/37 33/16 XXX XXX XXX XXX Triple Glazing 68/39 40/18 25/13 XXX XXX XXX Walls 68/39 40/18 25/13 18/11 XXX XXX Roof 72/41 45/19 30/15 22/12 15/10 XXX Floor 73/41 45/20 30/15 23/13 16/10 13/9 Annual Heating Cost (€) (4c/kWh) 450 0 AT AT/MV AT/MV/3G AT/MV/3G/W AT/MV/3G/W/R Airtightness 288 XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX MVHR 360 198 XXX XXX XXX XXX Triple Glazing 408 240 150 XXX XXX XXX Walls 408 240 150 108 XXX XXX Roof 432 270 180 132 90 XXX Floor 438 270 180 138 96 78 Annual Heating Cost (8c/kWh) 900 0 AT AT/MV AT/MV/3G AT/MV/3G/W AT/MV/3G/W/R Airtightness 576 XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX MVHR 720 396 XXX XXX XXX XXX Triple Glazing 816 480 300 XXX XXX XXX Walls 816 480 300 216 XXX XXX Roof 864 540 360 264 180 XXX Floor 876 540 360 276 192 156 Annual Heating Cost (16c/kWh) 1800 0 AT AT/MV AT/MV/3G AT/MV/3G/W AT/MV/3G/W/R Airtightness 1152 XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX MVHR 1440 792 XXX XXX XXX XXX Triple Glazing 1632 960 600 XXX XXX XXX Walls 1632 960 600 432 XXX XXX Roof 1728 1080 720 528 360 XXX Floor 1752 1080 720 552 384 312

Just going to put the spade bits in my drill for the car experiment

Window guy I used to use built his own house. Stuck (litterally) the trickles on till it was signed off then whipped them off.

It really bugs me when people comment on how much these tradesmen are charging how much do you lot earn a self employed bloke has to take every opportunity to earn as much as they possibly can. You need to step back and think of all the days they don’t earn anything not a penny wet days no work no pay chrismas holidays bank holidays the four weeks annual leave you all get no sick pay having to pay all your own pension contributions add that lot up and take it away from their daily charge and you will see that there is not a lot left £17 a metre for block work, how many m a day, take off tax,public liability insurance, tools, running a van,ppe in my time running my buisness i had a lot of young lads pass through my door, but today I would not encourage any of them to go self employed.

Extra sockets for pumps 😉