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so I finished the internal 110mm soil pipes (mostly anyway, still go the en-suite above the garage to do). here's the 3rd run. starting in an en-suite down to the downstairs WC in to the basement where the rest bend takes it on the horizontal and I have a rodding point across a hallway to join up with the other 2 runs and out the basement wall all look ok?

I'm kind of thinking of taking the 'better safe than sorry' approach to my DIY plumbing!

If you've an existing connection then just use it and save yourself a chunk of money. Replace the pipe that's on your land from the roadside onwards with 25mm mdpe pipe. Remember, you own the pipe from the stopcock/meter box onwards. And as you say, you can put a stand tap at this point as well to serve the construction. Exactly what we did. Dig down at the hedge, found the pipe, cut I and stuck on a tee, post and tap on one beach, and th other ran to the building. There's little point in paying NIW a grand or two to replace the metre or two on their side. Unless it happens to be lead, in which case they'll do it for free.

He also ditched his home brewed weather compensating heating control as it was not off the shelf and no one would understand it (including his wife) so he replaced it with a room stat (kiss) 👍

Hello folks My partner and I are three quarters through a self build strawbale house in rural Stirlingshire. We're fully offgrid with solar pv and rainwater harvesting. There's a lot of carpentry involved and I've done most myself, including building a 6 x 4m workshop on site. I've already used Buildhub to find the answers to many questions, and am looking forward to posting my own. Happy to answer any questions on our build.

Hi, I've been fiddling around with PVGIS daily data vs. roof orientation - actually the objective was to get an idea of battery sizing. This is for East Suffolk, 30 degree roof pitch. I think I've figured out that ... if you have the option ... that south facing panels really are better than split East/West panels. Maybe that's not a surprise, but I was assuming/hoping that splitting East/West would be very handy in order to flatten and widen the output curve - which would provide more useful power. Well it looks like it does a little bit in summer, but in spring and autumn and winter it seems to not help at all. See below: Alan

I've been gone for some time, around 9 weeks. I'd had a stroke back in August whilst at our caravan, getting us ready to move in 2 weeks later. For the technical people (everyone on here!) I had a dissect of the artery in my cerebellum. Artery opened for a few seconds, which caused a clot and then caused a stroke. The change was instant and I spent 5 weeks in hospital, however home now (well was home for a week now in the caravan, which im very happy about). Its affected me physically on my right side. 9 weeks I couldn't walk, but now I can so very happy. It's just one of those things, I wasn't doing too much (even though I was doing a lot) sometimes it can be caused by trauma, but well never know the answer to that. I was only 39 (now 40!) , fit and healthy, as above its just one of those things. I'll make a full recovery, and no more likely to have a dissect than others are which is low so all good. I've been positive throughout and intend to be, just another hurdle which is no problem.

You would not need stainless steel bracketry or fixings unless it was over a swimming pool. But getting oak in those sizes will be difficult and expensive and the shrinkage/splitting will be significant. I would go with Glulam, will be cheaper, dimensionally stable and easier to clean/treat

You're lightly looking at less than 1m2 of a gain in floor area for a whole lot of trouble. Something like stacking the dryer on top of the dishwasher or bolting a TV to the wall and removing the TV table would gain as much floor space for almost no cost.

Looks lovely how does it cope with our weather or is that in a porch room I also see a wonderful door bell pulley. Care to share who made both. PS we got PP on Thursday 😀

So further info.. don't want to remove it as the left breast goes down to the lounge and we will be lining this with a flue and installing a log burner. Not to mention I'd rather not need to climb on the roof and remove 4x the total amount of bricks. Also definitely wasn't suggesting I could leave it unsupported just thinking about the forces involved if I remove right up to the fork on the right side so the bricks are all keyed in it feels like the forces to counter are less than if I remove to a height that leaves several rows of bricks hanging. Sounds like I need to talk to a structural engineer and get them to advise.

It doesn’t need mesh and scratch coat It’s worth adding mesh above and below the windows But that can go on with the beads We tend to only use mesh on high suction blocks or roughcast Or if we want to bump the price up Just kidding 😁 So there’s a saving there Probably about a third

This was made for me locally

then I pressure tested the whole system (already did each run individually and was all ok so wasn't expecting any issues) and it passed with flying colours. before: after 5 mins: testing at the manhole outside with all ok I fitted the AAVs on 2 of the stacks anyone notice any issues?

I suggest you get a quote, or several, to get an idea of costs. Anything is possible but without seeing it I doubt anyone could give a real answer. It also depends on whether you have combined drains or not.

Question what you do inside the house first. Animal detritus (including humans), lint and microfibres from clothing/furniture, cooking etc will all have a greater impact than what is happening outside. And mould spores.

Yup. Not life or death, but every little helps.

They should listen and stop slagging you off all the time.

9mm and Climafkex . The heat loss even over 20m is low but I still think worth it .

Ffs . I asked about lagging and everyone said yes for the hot especially if it’s a long run . For the small cost lag all hots . THERE ! I am right !

is that so you don't have to cut the insulation around the clips? you can insulate the pipe and then strap band it to the wall?

For any I insulated pipes yes, if using on insulated pipes you’ll need Talon clips plus Talon spacers or the pipe won’t be far enough from the mounting surface to allow for the insulation.

100%. I am now fully committed to using local PIR’s to activate the HRC pump. I also use the same PIR’s ( via a luxury sensor ) to trigger Pee lighting after sundown ( dusk to dawn ). Two birds one stone. Top of the kitchen plinth is where I install a stealthy sub-miniature PIR for HRC at the kitchen, with the sensor about the size of a £1 coin.

Some 'oven free' recipes https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/articles/oven_free_bakes

I would use whatever thickness is suitable for the clips you plan to install so you can get the maximum insulation without making the installation ridiculously difficult. I would use climaflex inside.

Brilliant, the tap is out now. And you were right they do come out the top and dont need access to the bottom🤫 Oh well at least i know for next time

Well I didn’t bother, insulation only slows heating loss and if usage is not very often then not worth it IMO.

That's right, but he was worried that if he wasn't around, maintaining the system would be tricky.

The biggest killer of pushfit pipe is linear scratches caused by pulling long lengths in through cut various cut / drilled holes and notches which are sharp / abrasive / or worst, have a nail or screw in that you've not seen. Pushfit fittings rely on the outside surface to create the water-tight seal, so be very careful to preserve this during 1st fix.

Dynamic pressure and flow will be affected by the size and distance of the pipe vs what is deliverable from the main that it is tapped off. It matters a lot. especially if the local mains is shite and you wish to preserve ever ounce of potential from it. No idea? Maybe the thread title should have been "do we need to upgrade to a new mains connection" Have you experience of this service performing well? Can you do a static and dynamic flow / pressure test before we get any further into this discussion? Defo, if it's up to par. Whilst machines are on site, it's a no-brainer to dig to the boundary and replace the incomer to MDPE imho. If there was a dodgy stopcock at the pavement, occasionally vandals would strike ( after we'd all left site ) and the ancient brass stopcock would be turned off so tight, by the vandals, that the head of the tap would get snapped off the shaft. The water authority would then have to come and replace that U/S stopcock to a nice new 25mm MDPE one, and connect the new 25/ 32mm client pipe to it, within a set number of hours too Bloody vandals couldn't have timed things better......

It's just a sleeve so yes id it fits👍

That seems high, I was recently quoted £7000 for my chalet bungalow approx 170m. EWI pro Silicone render

Surely no matter the size of the pipe into the house, flow restrictions exist which bring it down... Boiler, heating tank, valves, taps etc?

Depending on the size of house / number of bathrooms, afaic a 32mm connection would be a no-brainer, as long as it wasn’t hugely more expensive? As urban areas get developed, the water pressure will head downwards, so consider future proofing too. Length of pipe run? Lots of variables to consider.

I’ve had a 25 mil connection on this and our previous build

Thanks all. Crucially I should have added 'ago' to the walking bit (I've been walking alone for the last 4 weeks). Onwards and upwards

Late to this one - what a wonderful introduction.

Agree let the market set the price, instead of incentives. Government funding leads to people people paying way too much for heat pumps etc, the only people winning are companies that take advantage of the schemes. The tax payer gets screwed every time.

this is what I came to find. MCS installers are having a laugh price wise, charging massive amounts for install and then the £5k rhi amount into their pocket as a bonus amount on top.

belt and braces --no need in uk --we don,t have earth quakes

My nephew most likely...

Oh yes!

You know too much, so we build in some insurance with your project

No I didn’t 🖕

They are actually 3/4 glands and screwfix / toolstation only sell upto 1/2. Luckily there is a worsley just round the corner that do them for the pricely ammount of £30! Tap back in and water back on. Now watching to see if the plumbing i pissed about with for no reason doesnt weep.