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Chanmenie

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About Chanmenie

  • Birthday 11/22/1961

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    Norwich

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  1. Get a stihl cordless, far lighter and more convenient than petrol, I have approx 100 meters of leylandi and cut it all on one battery, I was amazed at how powerful and efficient it is, it was recommended to me by a tree surgeon. I think mines the HSA56. But it’s similar to this https://shop.stihl.co.uk/products/hsa-50-battery-hedge-trimmer
  2. I have just fitted similar myself, and yes mine protrude far more. I hade to cut away the plasterboard when I fitted the valves to get them far enough forward, so the only thing that reduced how much they protrude was the tiles. As I did mine myself I was able to mock everything up before finalising the depth of the valves. so yes unfortunately you are going to have to re position the valves much further forward, so if you can get to the back of them that’s probably easier than removing the tiles.
  3. I agree for £40 it’s worth a try as it seems the most likely culprit
  4. Oh right mine didn’t say that, it has a set pressure. yeah doesn’t explain where it going, you’d think the diaphragm was leaking but you said no water from the valve ?
  5. The label says 3 bar so I’d do it to that.
  6. The only metal you should have would be copper, which also will not rust, but yes it’s more likely to have condensation Not sure what you mean by metal-y or plastic-y ?
  7. Have you represurised it, I think those ones need quite a bit of pressure, 3 bar as on the lable If it’s not pressurised the expansion of the hot water will cause the overflow then the working pressure drops and you start again
  8. They won’t rust as they won’t be steel the rising main is mostly likely blue and is mdpe which won’t corrode or rust I don’t get any condensation on either of my rising main pipes or any of the cold pipes under the sinks ?
  9. With the Veismann 151 the 16L buffer is located in the indoor unit with the DHW cylinder. don’t know if there’s another small one in the outdoor unit
  10. I put truss clips on as building control wanted them
  11. Yes exactly like that Before the concrete was poured I had the wall plates sitting on the scaffold with m12 rods pre drilled through the timber and made a float 47mm tall so I could set the height of the wet concrete, then just pushed the m12 rods with nuts into the concrete. After the trusses were fitted and nailed to the wall plate I cut away a little of the inner eps to fit the truss clips
  12. Have you tested the 4G speed ? I have recently completed a 4G set up and consistently get more than 120 Mbps I got an unlimited data sim on EE for £30 a month
  13. I didn’t have bird mouths, I had the trusses cut to sit on top of the wall plate, which fixed with bolts imbedded into the concrete, the wall plates were flush with the top of the ICF block, I then fitted the rafter overhangs after.
  14. Mines around £1100 m2 ICF chalet bungalow, Alu clad timber windows, German kitchen. but did a lot of the work myself. Will be a bit more once landscaping and driveway done
  15. Dot and dab is fine if done correctly with a continuous bead of adhesive all around the perimeter of each board, then wet plaster skim
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