Leaderboard

The're about to install one via me for my current full M&E package clients. Defo Rolls Royce, Bugatti even, but very good credentials for when it needs to count and boasts a CoP of 6 if installed to their ( very fussy ) criterium. CVCsystems also design and specify for my MVHR stuff, and Nick Vaisey is their in-house passive guru who is extremely helpful. Vitor is the ASHP guy, and he has also been very helpful in coordinating the above SE ASHP installation. Thoroughly recommend you talking to these guys.

The mention of "Landlord" suggests a rental? If so, raise these concerns with the property owner and allow the installer and the person who paid for the work to be do ne to discuss this between themselves would be the 'correct' path here. As far as the reasons for boarding, if this is a high / multiple occupancy building / flats over flats etc, then the boarding would ( could ) be a fire / smoke barrier and therefore it's installation would ( should then ) have been overseen / inspected by a BCO for correct execution and integrity. As for nails left sticking out to the point they are damaging the LVT flooring, that is just shite workmanship. If you're renting this is not really a matter for forum-folk, more for you to take up independently with the person you pay the rent to.

Someone on here mentioned they were the Rolls Royce of heat pumps, think they come with a similar price tag. There is thread on here looking at standby energy consumption (can be huge), so would be worth having a read of that also.

Some thoughts having gone through similar thinking lately: - you will pay for it one way or another, it's not really possible to fix costs right now, so I wouldn't bother to try beyond a certain point (we've agreed to fix costs but I'm on the hook for any material increases over 5%) - the idea of cutting it in stages is something I looked at. It will add time delays inevitably, and it could leave you with some gaps in ownership/accountability (drains in the wrong place, etc etc) - I certainly felt our QS and Architect were out of touch, and let them go also Good luck !

Hi @Onoff I ground the underside of the tiles and sealed the gaps with lead sealant

Indeed they should-sectional joints is the phrase. If you don’t then you’ll have straight joints (or less than quarter bond) vertically somewhere.

Oh wow. How long have they had this? I see there are a few questions about self build vat.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

yeah I got a box of 2NICE, which work perfectly with tuya-convert I have a couple UK style wall sockets running tuya I need to try and convert some time. this will bring a few more interesting items under control. But as you see, vast majority of stuff I want to monitor is hard-wired so really has to be CT clamp or expensive (and space consuming) din-rail mounted energy monitors.

Quicker with a tape but for all the time it takes to dry bond it you get a better look at dry bonded.

Have no pictures. The block on its edge will be set to suit the outside measurement on the plan so when it goes up to sub floor level you then start the first course of brick/block that will end up being visible. You can go right round with one on its edge in one go no bother. This will give you a straight wall with which to put the 2 blocks on the flat up against. Your 2nd course then will be 2 on the flat set plumb on the outside so your bonding over the single block below on its edge. Your basically building a single skin right round and then filling in the back with a 9 inch wall with the blocks bonded as normal. Then on the next course you build a 9 inch wall and fill in the back with the single block bonding as you would normally do building this width.

You don't need to alternate the block on flat from inside to outside. Do it inside all the way. BTW Poratherm has many negatives. Very difficult to get a fixing and not good thermally. There is a reason they don't get used over here much.

I think they should be at least 35mm. Some of them run down to nothing, which is OK if they are on top the joist parallel but not if perpendicular.

Would need to be holy water for you ya heathen 🤣.

Simples. The 16YO Panasonic 55" plasma sucked nigh-on 700W. The clue was in the 5 fans along the top edge. The phosphors were so degraded the brightness had to be maxed out all the time. The payback is a simple calc. of the energy saving of 600W for ~4 Hours per day (the new OLED is ~100W). The clincher in this deal (apart from the heavy discounting on this 2021 model) was Curry's current trade-in offer... they paid me £100 to take the 50kg Panasonic away 😀 I did shed a small tear as it was otherwise working perfectly. Your PDF was a fun read.

Loads. Boards are 12.5mm, tiles no more than 8-10mm each side plus should land on top of the tray so you could go to 930mm and have wiggle room to seal the tray properly.

A layer of PIR directly under spreader plates ( set out meticulously so as to make the plates very slightly distended eg for excellent surface to surface contact with the P5 ) will add to the mineral wool and pay huge dividends. The wood fibre could be used instead, but if it were my house I’d use PIR for the uplift in the performance credentials. Yes, already noted, Sherlock 🤪. Just saying the underside of the heated pug tray would be only protected by the wool and also subject to ventilation heat loss from the free air movement in those underfloor voids. Thus, the PIR, sealed and made draught-proof, would ( should ) be a minimum spec under the pug tray. Prob struggle to get 25mm under unless the tray bottom was 11mm ply and in-filled with PIR before loading with the pug mix. Wool > PIR > spreader plates c/w 3x16mm pipes per tray / void > 22mm P5 > 6mm ply > floor covering = 👌

You will still need to insulate if this is less than 300mm from the perimeter of the foundations. Rockwool plus 25mm wall pipe lagging will suffice. Exp foam is fine with MDPE btw Just spray a little water into the 110mm pipe before applying to help it cure / expand.

Yeh - I use these if you want a really tidy look, but don’t forget to insulate the MDPE first and centre it in the rubber outlet using some more insulation offcuts. https://www.roofgiant.com/guttering-fixings-accessories/deks-110mm-universal-waste-adaptor/

Pug mix works nicely and you can strengthen the floor using 18mm ply/chipboard and then cross batten with standard roof battens at 300mm centres, glued and screwed to the sub floor. This leaves you with space for 100mm spacing for standard 16mm pipework. A semi-dry pug mix over the top then capped with VCL and 12mm ply screwed to the battens will give you a 55mm build up. If you suspend the insulation from below using netting or even cheap landscape fabric it will make it easier to install.

Hello, welcome. To lower the risk of misunderstanding, the one thing you will not get here, is proper expert advice. Some of the contributors here are indeed expert , for example @Nickfromwales, @nod and others, but none of us - expert or otherwise - can actually see the bit of work you have in hand. Your job might need more than the recommended nail spacing because of factors we can't see. Or less, perhaps. It would appear from your other posts elsewhere that there is another agenda here: one in which we simply can't involve ourselves. May I suggest you ask a properly qualified tradesperson?

I’m not questioning that however you’re using a product that has a low r-value and will need to put significantly more heat into the building through whatever source you choose to offset the low thermal performance. The eco credentials of the insulation become pointless if you need to massively increase your carbon footprint to heat the property ! The whole lifecycle cost of the products gets ignored and the sustainability argument goes out of the window - we have regularly had this argument with clients who want net zero properties, and we have to get into the lifecycle cost of materials which is probably more important than the baseline initial “environmental” cost of the product itself. If you have a limited insulation thickness on the front wall then consider a better performing product to get at least a BRegs minimum score for the element and then use the wood fibre elsewhere.

Probably, but then it's still a 25 YO compressor and I'm the extra gas load may just see off the bearings. I have a program of renewal underway now. Just put into place another energy saving exercise. This one will save us around 875kWh PA. Before: After: An upgrade that should pay for itself in 3 years. And it's way more glowy.

Only 19p/kWh at a gas station. At 10p)kWh it is worth getting a CHP unit and some batteries. 20 kW is about 27 hp, so a small car diesel engine hooked up to a generator, with the coolant pumped around the house would supply that easily at part load (where it is most economic to run). May have to bury it in a bunker to suppress noise and have the air intake and exhaust pointing away from any houses, but should not be too noisy.

I didn't like any I saw (appearance/material/ sturdiness) until I found some abroad, with an 'own-brand' name. Roca were good too but more expensive, and so similar I wonder if they were the same. I tried one and then got loads as they are so good. I came across a Wickes advert and they look the same to me, so worth a look., especially at £19, and 10% off if you can get a trade account. I also bought stainless steel screws, as I have known some supplied fixings to rust, which is not good behind the tiles. Then silicone inside the plugs, and behind the capping....good so far., and very sturdy. Croydex Grab Bar with Anti-Slip Grip - 300mm

+1 on external blinds. We have a passive house, no AC, and if the heat gets in it is hard to get rid of. We have external velux blinds on the east and south roof lights and internal blackouts on the west (these ones are huge). While the external blinds are most effective, any shade will help. While living in the caravan on site the summer before the build commenced, we noticed just how much solar gain came from the east and specified external blinds for those windows - this has been very effective at preventing morning overheating. We have curtains in the west bedrooms but the big west facing sliders in the living room were very problematic in the summer. This year we bought the internal Ikea motorised blinds and they are working really well. Stack ventilation is handy in evening and then try to keep the house sealed up next day so you get the best of the cold air. I also wish I'd installed a split air-con for these hot spells.

You could try self amalgam repair tape.

Welcome. Fingers crossed for the planning.

Even if you brought in a main contractor to do everything It would still be faxed no one can give a fixed price at the moment Your QS and architect are probably a little out of touch You are right to faze the build If all goes well with you and your builder He will probably offer to quote for the next faze I don’t think anyone knows what will happen Those predicting are the same experts that predicted we would enter a 1920s style recession after the lockdown One thing for sure The building trade is showing no signs of slowing down

A rethink on initial costs and were thinking to leave the garage as is for the time being - block off the internal access by extending bedroom 3, making the kitchen into another single bedroom then putting our efforts into converting the living area into a kitchen diner.

They were produced with the intention that you would use them going forward, so it’s implied that even if the technician has the copyright, you have the right to use them on that site. However it’s down to the new architect to check they can use the drawings and copyright is cleared. If you want a digital copy, then it’s down to the technician if they want to give you it or not. You don’t own the digital drawings by rights, and they have more info in them than you require. Usually a PDF is fine as long as it can be imported to CAD. If they are nice they will give a purged version in CAD.

Read some of it, and yes, fun describes it nicely.

We have a programmer who is a really big lad, he normally has the camera off but did accidently switch it on during a company meeting while he was sitting naked at his desk. He scrambled to switch it off, there is complete silence until an anonymous voice just says, "nice tits". Meeting then goes on as if nothing has happened.

Where we are I often see 215 blockwork done 2 courses stacked. It does not really look right but I think the brickie does cage fighting.

That pipe will last longer than us mate

🙄🙄🙄

Cripes! I think that pin head just got smaller or alternatively we have all gone slightly NUTS.