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I would be going through the wall and drop into the red line. Although if a sink was always going to be there then no reason UFH pipes should be in that area so you could go down but messy going through the slab and insulation etc.

Unlikely to be enforceable. There is usually a period for which it refers - 5 years after the end of the last property in the development being built is the norm. It’s there so you don’t spoil the street scene etc whilst they are trying to build more houses and sell them.

TP600, 15 year warranty, 25 year life expectancy and BBA certified.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! Once you have the answer perhaps you could tell HMG. PS Will members who submit quotes get credited, if they wish to be, in the book.

Yes as if it is gypsum based it is nasty stuff that will absorb water and also can cause lifting and swelling of the ground. Lime plaster is not an issue in this sort of situation.

I see nothing of particular concern there based on the limited info to go off. The 45 deg thing is surprising though, they normally only take them from the near edge if assessing impact of a two storey extension. This is obviously not a hard and fast rule and does vary between LA's so depends who you're with. My advice would still stand though to keep it square in the initial app. Depending on your LA, they might be allergic to 45 deg cutoffs along window splays anyway I'd advise a few minor tricks in case the planners get funny, but you should be OK to crack on if your neighbours are on board. Remember you always get a freebie re-submission if necessary.

Seems like you can get them for £15.40 + VAT per pack here https://insulationwholesale.co.uk/rockwool-rwa45-acoustic-insulation-slab-in-100mm-2-88m2-pack/

16 zones seems a lot - how have you worked that out ..? And another for WundaTrade - manifolds and pumps are top notch, pipe is all much of a muchness. if you’re doing it yourself then buy the auto balancing actuators and save the grief of trying to sort it.

Me too. Make a gully, add a garden tap above (fed from the sink supply) and disaster turns into success

I bought mine from Wunda and got good service/advice.

Nope! (though I'd love to see one - from a single UK/US type building with individual tank not a european "building" where one tank feeds multiple apartments (probably from a "cold" tank sat on the roof) That's the worst case scenario where you're most likely to get it. Preferably a holiday home for occasional occupancy. Legionella is difficult to grow, not particularly deadly unless you're already half dead or otherwise immunocompromised, and homeowners don't test though. Good luck finding single recorded case from a domestic environment. Yet the legionella police still insist on storing and distributing hot water at scalding temperatures that are inefficient to produce for heat pumps. (and district heating systems) Good business in selling pointless gear to fix the problem you create with scalding hot water. Easy photos of scalded babies dropped into hot baths. Or grannies who slipped from the shock of hot shower water and clonked their head on the wall and were peeled by the hot water by the time they regained consciousness. Else the legionella count in domestic cold water is so low, and the growth rate so slow, that any domestic system with reasonable "turnover" and where pipe velocities are high enough to clear the pipes will flush through anything that does appear quicker than it can take hold. Don't let that stop the legionella police forcing silly storage temperatures and scaring you into lots of equipment to reduce burns though. Most recorded exposures (from plumbing rather than cooling towers) are in hot water recirculation systems that are poorly designed and poorly maintained. If you ensure that the return from these systems is >50C at all times AND all parts of the system are >50C at all times then you won't get it. Even if it's >50C for >20 hours per day that's enough. Balancing large systems (such as in hospitals, sheltered housing) sing fixed valves is a pig though and you often get cold spots. Worse still are dodgy thermostatic mixer valves and dodgy mixer taps with cartridges (installed to reduce scalding risk from hot water) which allow crossover (cold water flows into the recirculation system, invisibly to the users, and creates "pockets" of cooler water that may not (due to how water is drawn off the hot circuit) show up back at the point of entry/return/reheating. Rubber hoses / washers too. (certain agents used to make EPDM are great at growing bacteria) Basildon (poo hole) Hospital (even bigger poo hole) did a classic by testing their water, finding legionella, then trying to kill it by raising the temperature of the hot water system. They made it worse. How? It was in the cold water system which they helpfully raised from 25-30C up to 30-35C thanks to proximity to the now hotter pipes. Enough people died to notice. Not enough people died for the hospital to care to fix the problem though. They pour enough money down the drain to pretend to fix it but never do. Better to spend it on doctors / nurses/ medicines etc in their eyes. (possibly not wrong on an economic basis) https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-essex-23961487 https://www.echo-news.co.uk/news/local_news/9810618.10-years-on-legionella-till-a-risk-to-basildon-hospital-patients/ This book is the definitive text for those with an interest. Not much research in the area since as it's of minimal consequence and the marketing dollars all come from the tap vendors. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Legionella-Building-Services-G-W-Brundrett/dp/0750615281

Depending on what the neighbour's house is like, and what the rest of the plot is like, and the general sizing of the house/elevations, that may/may not be allowed. If you have PD rights (i.e. not removed - check this), it will help as you can always fall back on permitted rules as a bargaining chip. But for what you're proposing, planning will be required regardless. Presumably both the rear and side extension will be single storey. Any objections from the neighbours from early chats (if any)? Regarding that little cut out on the 45 degree line, I'd suggest you lose that, and make it square - it should be measured from the centre of their patio/window, not the near edge. This should give you a bit more wiggle room.

Hi. With such low flow temps ( as associated with these types of emitter ) I really doubt that you’ll get any issues whatsoever. I would run the pipes under the stairs though, instead of dog-legging through the plant corridor. Come up into the manifold from behind, or even relocate the manifold under the stairs to free up some more space there if there’s nothing else under the stairs. That would be better than nothing, but again I think probably unnecessary with such very low flow temps.

Hi all I'm fairly new here posting but I've been lurking and genning up on the forums. I'm looking to do a self build, but land prices are bonkers atm, and the land for sale is rarer than rocking horse droppings! So I am thinking of setting up a community self build project in Cheshire (Cheshire Westish area) and I just wanted to gauge interest out there for other wannabe self builders in Cheshire who wanted to do the same and on a budget. Pls feel free to get in touch if you're interested. Thanks for reading

See the pics (Day1: to Day 4:) in the blog of our build in Cornwall. Wife and I did this with half a day assistance on Day 1 from one of the tech team on site. It's straightforward once you get going

Yes, I have used loads of the 15mm wide 5-12 from this company. I've also used other thicknesses up to 25mm. It all works fine. I've more recently used Xpanda tapes as this was slightly better financially and still bba. Can't really tell the difference other than slight variation in colour - one darker grey than the other.

I think there's also a question of longevity of the airtightness. even with a totally bog standard PH certified french door from internorm, we find it very fiddly to get it tuned to a sufficiently airtight state that isn't a complete bugger to lock and unlock. Over time I'm sure this will get tougher, and my understanding it bifolds are an order of magnitude harder to maintain. So - certainly do the completion blower test and insist the supplier fixes any issues to get it to pass, it seems it is realistic to be prepared for it to become more drafty (and/or harder to use) over time.

Air permeability Class 3 Water tightness Class 7A Resistance to wind load Class A3 Class 3 has been known to pass the Passivhaus airtightness test, but it is advisable to go for Class 4 as I understand it, so .. doable?

Yes to this. This is why Grandma kept her wardrobe 2" away from the wall.

Hi Simon I had a similar desgin, I sleeved the majority of the pipes (and all flows) where they bunched to minimise heat transfer in areas I didn't want to overheat. I used this suff (red for flow, blue for return): https://pswtradesuppliers.co.uk/ufh-foil-pipe-edge-insulation/136-16-18mm6mm-pipe-insulation-lagging-blue.html This has worked fine with no excess heat in areas I didn't want it. And I have a split floor on my slab with a manifold on each floor. Hope that helps!

Remove the backs of pax cupboards that're going against a wall IMO. You'll get better air circulation for clothes freshness thanks to the gap at the back too and (if an outside wall in an older house especially) less damp. Bead the bottom edge to stop jewelry falling down. Cupboard comes with two brackets at the top. Two fixings into the wall. Washers or plastic packers to make up the gap. Hide the lot with the plastic cover that comes with the cupboard. Side gap personal preference. I think they look better with skirting past them and a ~15mm gap that makes the wall being on the pish less visible. Check that skirting is lower than door if you're planning to run skirting up to cupboard. Else you'll have fun fitting and then opening that door. You can also put the whole cupboard slightly on the pish (lean it into the side wall) if carpet hides the gap at the bottom and there isn't anything on they other side.

Prefer flush mounted and only use unswitched sockets as have a nice grid of marked up isolators in a walk in larder

Thanks for the advice guys, my mum isn’t happy about the garden being so small so have to cancel the sale. for completion, the neighbour has that parking space and ours would have been at the front of the house really appreciate the advice though and thank you

Indeed, he popped uo in news feeds only last year working on solid state battery tech at age 98... https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/nobel-prize-winning-inventor-of-the-lithium-ion-battery-has-his-eyes-set-on-the-next-big-breakthrough-in-energy-storage-301132645.html

Surface boxes definitely. Just bear in mind depth if you are having pull out wire baskets etc. Try to avoid in sink units if possible put into adjacent cupboards. If in sink units try to keep high up away from potential water leaks. If putting isolator switches in like we did in they have to be easily accessible per regs.

You and me, both at the same thing. I'm a bit too old to deal with several acres, and managed to buy 0.6 of a rural acre in Scottish Borders, with Planning Permission in Principle . I did years of scouring Zoopla, Righmove, etc, and visited places all over Britain. Eventually I realised that my limited resources would go furthest in Scotland, so I managed to line up several likely looking plots, booked a B&B for a few days, and went exploring. I would seriously recommend getting something with PPP, unless you're up for risking an outright refusal, and maybe years of re-applications. Gen up on local planning policies - most councils publish their policies online. They are guaranteed to send you off to sleep, but should also contain their ideas about rural developments - where you may get PP, or where you probably won't. Generally speaking, though, rural development is limited, and is normally required to fit in with existing housing clusters. Maybe a derelict property would be the way to go, as the planning permission thing is already a given. It may be useful contacting Planning Aid Scotland - I haven't dealt with them, but they sound like they could be helpful: www.pas.org.uk/ I haven't yet officially upped sticks and moved north, but I will say that everyone I've met up there has been extremely helpful, supportive and friendly - with one exception - the landlord of my nearest neighbour (he lives seven miles away) who is objecting to my plans. But that's another story.

I usually surface mount on the side of the cabinet, because as stated above the backs on a lot of units is thin.

M6 bolts through a piece of alloy channel spaced so that they pick up one edge of each board. Outer two long enough to sit on batten. Inners only touch boards. Drill holes for screws then slot to outer edge.

My take on this is if the soakers are under the slates (as I prefer not to see too much lead) then code 3 is fine. If the lead is open to being “picked up by the wind” then I would use code 4.

We were with Direct Line, who didn't seem to have an issue with our Aluminium (standing seam) roof and were very reasonable, but they've just pushed "high rebuild value" insurance on to another one of their brands which wasn't so competitive. We're now with Frontier Home Insurance: https://www.frontierinsurance.co.uk/ Again, our metal roof and timber structure doesn't appear to have effected premiums, and barns and outbuildings including tools and equipment etc. very, very reasonable. Their quoting tool allows you to "play" with values and gauge directly what effects the premium.

PIR is 5 out of 10 on the crappy jobs scale - it's just tedious. But rockwool, and rockwool above you in between rafters? Ugh, 8 out of 10, maybe 9. It's itchy, it irritates the eyes, makes you cough. Or you can cover up, wear a mask and eye protection and then drown in sweat.

I got away with 25mm insulated pb over 120mm kingspan on mine. You might want to have a look at gapotape - came across it just when I had nearly finished doing the room - will make the process a lot easier and quicker as the trusses will certainly have bowed slightly so none of the rips are true. Gapogroup ltd - Gapotape, Insulation (gaposhop.com)

Border between Cornwall and everyone else.