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About Olf

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  1. Experience won't help in the current climate - I'm looking for a plumber for a full house heating + plumbing job and out of 8 local contacted only 2 found time to respond that they have books full for the foreseeable future. I assume all the others are exactly in the same position. Even one recommended by the builder (who I luckily got arranged 8 months ago) is not picking up neither mobile nor home number! So we're really in the tough place - we can either think about a number and them make it 50% bigger to maybe 'gazump' a trade if the job is desperate, or delay some jobs until later, but face steeply rising materials costs (and labour probably too) in the meantime.
  2. You can also use phenolic boards (also with Kingspan in the name): 0.022W/mK , so you get 20% better insulation than PIR. But at >100% price premium (currently they're £90-£100 for 1.2m x 2.4m piece)
  3. I agree, there should be some gap for perimeter insulation. I checked the cavity closers and they actually do not provide structural support, this is down to the slab to be strong enough to overgang. Which may be ok for 100mm cavity, but how is that dealt with in case of wide (say 300mm, 400mm?) cavities?
  4. Beam and block floor, beams perpendicular to the door opening. Should/could the beams protrude towards the outer leaf to support the part of the floor within the door opening? With beams running along the opening I take that cavity closer *has to* provide support, but what in this case?
  5. What sort of 'planning approval' did you ask for for 3m extension? Anyway, 3.5m is still within permitted development rules, just in the 'larger extensions' section that requires neighbours consultation (https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/17/extensions/2). You mentioned they're ok with that, so it should not be an issue. For such planning permission no site visit is necessary so you can probably carry on with your works, though that is of course element of risk, so you need to judge the delay vs any consequences of being caught.
  6. Last time I did the upstairs (3 bedrooms + bathroom + en-suite) via the attic, but downstairs only extraction from cloakroom and supply to the corner of the living room, as it was 2 meters away along the joists. Disruption: ceiling in the cloakroom (80cm wide) and boxing in the bathroom. The difference was remarkable, especially removing steam from the bathrooms after shower (boost by built-in humidity sensor). As it was 'botched' job from the start I used a cheap unit and branched PVC ducting to keep the cost down.
  7. 15kW of boiler output will be enough if your heat demand is lower than that - and with insulation work it is likely to be the case. Also in well insulated building the full output of the radiators (as specified at supply temperature at 70°) will not be necessary, so even if ran straight from ASHP at ~40-50° they will do what they're intended to - keep the required room temperature. Actually the result should be better, as with lower output the temperature changes are slower than in full steam ahead - full stop mode.
  8. Olf

    Hello All

    Arrangement of the interior is not a subject of planning. If you can't get the extension, then indeed removing the staircase to claim some space and rearranging downstairs to work for your parents would the scope - the former something to discuss with building control (how to make them happy that the 1st floor becomes uninhabited attic space and so does not need stairs), the latter maybe with some architect, preferably both specialising in making small spaces work and familiar with needs of elderly people.
  9. Current situation: combi ( Atag iC28 (23kW heating output, 30kW hot water output @ 11.5 l/s flow) ) rads, 1 bathroom - easy In progress: UFH and 2nd bathroom In plans: solar panels So at minimum I'd need a buffer tank to marry up combi with UFH, but DHW really needs something better than sharing 1 pipe across 1 bath, 2 showers and 4 taps so let's say UVC. However secondary return circuit is high on wish list and that starts tipping scale towards thermal store, that could satisfy all 3 requirements. Having immersion heater (or 2, bootom and middle) should be possible in both cases so a draw here. I'd be happy to ditch the boiler for ASHP the moment it breaks, but with less heating load (effort in insulation) and less cycling (buffering by cylinder(s)) it will probably run well enough to see hydrogen era, where both cost and green calculations may look different than today. Anyway, if either of choices will make the switch easier, bonus points awarded. So I ended up with: 1. Buffer tank for UFH, UVC for water + heating circuit can be turned off when not needed + smaller DHW tank ~ maybe easier to find place, but then 2 tanks instead of 1 - G3 installation and maintenance 2. Thermal store + simplified plumbing as combi turned into ‘system’ (apart from the cylinder itself) + easier to accommodate secondary return I tend to be biased towards thermal store option, but: - is secondary return option with UVC much more complex? - I made a draw in immersion heater department - am I right to assume both can be easily specced with 2? - I made a draw in heat loss - here probably a lot is down to the set temp of thermal store and that a function of heating and DHW demand, so I'm in control to some extend - I assume UVC will cost me fortune in servicing (annual inspection, at let say £50 a visit) - is it really more complex than checking for leaks and pumping the expansion tank? Or it doesn't matter, as even cowboy's stamp would ultimately (in insurer's eyes) be worth more than proper, but uncertified job?
  10. Shred it straight to a skip. You can chop the stuff first gradually and then rent a shredder and skip for few days only When I started dealing with leylandii it took days to cut through it and tens of jumbo bags (and half as many trips to the local recycling centre) to get rid of. Then we brought cavalry: proper tree surgeons team with petrol chainsaws and a monster shredder - in half a day they did 5 times more than what took me 2 weeks chopping and travels. It cost me, but it was money well spent.
  11. Floor 100m concrete on 150mm PIR on DPM on sand blinding on the ground. What makes WC pan bad for UFH underneath? Tray is only symbolic, it will be a tiled wetroom surface - but with tanking underneath I myself doubt it will work well with wet UFH. Should I look straight at electric UFH in that area?
  12. I'm fiddling with Loopcad and got to something like: I drew the circuit under the walk-in shower (ignore the shower tray symbol), but a) can it be installed there at all, b) will it work sensibly with all the tanking layers, c) am I not better off with electric UFH in that area, as it will make the tiles nice to stand on all year round, not only in heating season. The opposite problem is with the bed: I can't see it going anywhere else, but missus claims she might want to change the layout one day. To be honest I see now much less harm in running pipes under the bed: if they cannot release the heat there, so be it. Which probably can be extended to the wardrobes too: even if the output will be heavily reduced, it always adds up a bit.
  13. I failed to mention that on one side I'll have void under beam and block floor - so there would actually be a gap through the opening. However SE came back and suggested using rigid insulation boards as the masking on both sides - I'm happy with that, as it is easy to cut to the actual profile.
  14. NHBC shows such a schematics: How is the 'masking' done in practice? I could not find any ready made solution, it should be easy to cut out of a sheet, but what material? It needs to be man enough to withstand pressure of the ground, that suggests something rigid, and that means 2 part barrier (if installed around existing pipe, a sewer in this case).
  15. If you currently use Worcester 30Si then it will surely cope with heat demand, even more so when you improve insulation Your problem may be the UFH itself - the limit of floor surface temperature and thus heating water temperature as well as choice of surface may limit the heating power radiated by the floor.