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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/19/19 in all areas
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Its a real grey area - I know of a house built with 5 reception rooms downstairs and one with a shower room off it ... blatantly a downstairs bedroom but marked as a reception on plans. The trick is to build so you can add the walls at a later date - not expensive and easily done with some foresight.2 points
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If the plans change then you're supposed to re-submit for approval, if the changes are structural.2 points
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Another factor here is the structure calcs for the building inspector. MBC did our entire package and we just passed the spreadsheets and reports from the structural engineer to the inspector and he was very impressed. You might lose this simplicity if you start sourcing internal walls from another supplier. Have a word with your TF supplier; it may not be an issue if you only source the non load bearing walls from another supply.2 points
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Afternoon. I have planning permission for my self build, which I obtained using my own drawings. No architect or engineer has touched this project yet, and I doubt I'll use the former at all. I have drawn a basic kitchen layout already, and am now firming up the details. Following a bit of research I feel my best bet here is to place the main appliances where I want them (having considered the work triangle etc) then essentially fit everything else (the cupboards mostly, though also the secondary stuff like microwave, recycling bins etc) around those main appliances, subject to the variety of design guidelines available online. As this is being done from scratch, I can set the kitchen out so that the gaps between the main appliances are all multiples of 600mm or 300mm. My thinking here is that units come in those dimensions, and by laying out my kitchen accordingly I can proceed to design the plumbing and electric to supply the main appliances, then keep my eye out for the best deals on good kitchen units between now and construction. Once I see some standad units I like, I can pick them up and get a fitter to install them. The alternative seems to be that Wren (or whoever) design something for me. They were talking in terms of not having standard dimension units. If I had a gap of 800mm, they would build me an 800mm cupboard. I'd be interested to know.... 1. Is there actually any value in Wren, Howdens or Wickes designing my kitchen? Are they going to add value that I won't? Am I likely to miss a vital consideration, or is it pretty straightforward really? 2. Is my approach sound, or am I over-valuing the idea of a layout based on multiples of 600mm? 3. Am I actually likely to get a really good range of options and quality in standard 600mm units, or do I have to go down the tailored/built route to get decent stuff anyway? Any thoughts welcome! Cheers1 point
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From memory, about half of the (large single) garage walls were hollow panels of approx 1inch timber batons with 3mm asbestos cement boards fixed both sides. The rest of the garage was timber and rusty corrugated metal. It all went in a day, for about £600 plus vat I think, via two blokes, a chainsaw, sledgehammer and crowbar. And I swear, they were proper demolition contractors and licensed waste carriers!1 point
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or use these https://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/engineered-restraint-strap/3341 point
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As above, potentially you can diy it, but disposal is a pain. To be on the safe side, I decided to get licensed professionals in to take down an old garage at our last place that had some sort of cement board walls. The guys who turned up to take it down were fully equipped with shorts, t-shirts and sunglasses as PPE....1 point
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As @JSHarris says there are different types and the type most commonly used in garages is chrysotile. It can be a DIY job for removal but you will need to dispose of it compliantly and that generally means it needs to be bagged or wrapped. Have a look on the LA's website for details of how your LA will accept it for disposal. DIY or not the key is to be extremely careful not to disturb the fibres and to wear masks and protective clothing. And to be safe remove clothes whilst still wearing the mask and wash immediately. Keep all kids etc. well away while the work is being done. https://www.armco.org.uk/asbestos-survey-news/how-to-remove-asbestos-from-a-shed-or-garage/1 point
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Network utilisation charges.... The local DNO are allowed to set the charges for their networks - based on size and type of network infra plus a few other factors. It’s a legacy from the old electricity boards where they all had to divvy up the cost of running the national grid ...1 point
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Worth getting someone to identify what type it is, as there's a big difference in the way different types have to be handled. Is it made of corrugated sheets? If so then the chances are that it's made from asbestos cement, which is generally fairly easy to remove and dispose of, as long as it's not broken up to release fibres. It still needs dismantling with care, and treating as hazardous waste, but it isn't anywhere near as hazardous as some other forms of asbestos, mainly because the fibres are contained within the cement (as long as it's not broken up, cut, drilled etc).1 point
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So the quick way to get E7 for free is go to one of the big 6 on a standard tariff for a month. Book the switch to a standard tariff - call them and ask for the E7 meter install. Then as soon as it’s installed do a switch and 28 days later you should be on your new supplier.1 point
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I wondered who would be the first to say it's reasonably well preserved all things considered. Don't know why the Mary Rose popped into my head, but I liked it and went with it? I may need to take the Mary Rose approach and just permanently submerge my soleplate and not expose it to air....maybe that will work? If my soleplate lasts 100 yrs I'm ok with that....not my problem then....unless the secret to immortality is discovered?1 point
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Thanks Peter, Did all that and now all nice and quiet. Hopefully won't have any more issues but at least I know what to do now. Thanks again. Rob1 point
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What if you change your mind about the construction method etc? In Scotland as @Christine Walker says we have to apply for a building warrant amendment (you still only have to meet the regs from the original date of the warrant). So if we decide to change insulation thickness, boiler type or whatever. What do you have to do in England to note such changes and ensure that what’s built is in line with the regs applicable?1 point
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Nothing ... You get plans approval ( in England and Wales) based on the regulations in force at the time of the submission for building control approval. If you take 10 years to finish, it’s irrelevant.1 point
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You have to put in an amendment to warrant , sorry dog got in my way there? ammendments are made to the original plan, our architect will do this at a cost of £4501 point
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Well I am still clinging to the belief that the Robertson square drive was invented in the Golden Shred marmalade factory.1 point
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Open the valve all the way, pump on high and let it run for 1/2 hour. Then close down the valve to the correct setting and turn the pump down. It should clear it.1 point
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I wondered that and found this: a quiet evening's reading by the fireside. Oh, and this......1 point
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I think Torx is a trademark protected brand so screw manufacturers may have to pay a licence fee to use it. Not sure if it's still under patent, suspect not as its been around since the 70's i think.1 point
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I would have thought plasterboard and skim would be OK. Why did you rule it out? BTW that is a VERY impressive range of back boxes on the left!1 point
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If looking to build a tracker, then it's probably easiest to use an electric motor driven linear actuator, as these are available at a reasonable price for use on things like electric gates. The control system needs something to reset the array at night, ready for the next morning, plus something like a 4 quadrant optical sensor to drive the array to point directly at the sun (something like the crude sensors used on early heat-seeking missiles). Not that hard to come up with a tracking control system, I think, but the engineering involved in making a strong enough mount for the array might be a bit challenging.1 point
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Yes. But not for everyone. They are perfect for self builders (the full-on type) who are in control of everything: well nearly - the sparky comes in to do xyz - so short of giving her the exactly correct spec screws yourself, you have to accept some 'screw diversity' (Sincere apologies - you can take the pedant out of the self build, but not out of his turn of phrase) And this, this is the real danger, specially when you aren't looking The BarStewards just nick them...... Worse - people see your lying around, and guess what: they get nicked. I have now washed my WERA bit set three or four times now. It stays in my left hand work trouser pocket permanently. Its too big to gum up the washing machine, too small to leave lying around. Too expensive to keep buying.1 point
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Haha, thanks @PeterStarck. Perhaps I might, if I had your impressive ability! My problem is that my keenness is likely to overwhelm mine ?.1 point
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Ah, I think you were right the first time @Mr Punter. Reading through it all, the rain-intensity figures for drainage come from Diagram 2, which also mentions "underground rainwater drainage", not Diagram 1 which is what I showed and is for roof drainage. As follows under "Section 3: Surface water drainage" … From diagram 2… So I should use 0.014 or 0.016 l/s. Now, I just need an exact measure of the roof area including the overhangs from my architects drawings. I suspect it is a bit greater than 120 m². But even if the drainage rate exceeds 2 l/s I suspect it won't do so by much so a little attenuation is all that I will need to hopefully fall into compliance and satisfy the drainage person in the local planning department. The drainage person was adamant that any attenuation device would need to be "permanently installed". I presume they have instances of a modified water butt doing the job which was whipped away as soon as their backs were turned. I am not sure what permanently installed means in this context. And she also said that a water butt would not do anyawy as it could be full on the day of a deluge and so do no attenuating. This has been very helpful. BuildHub continues to amaze! Thanks to everyone.1 point
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Torx head screws are pretty good IMHO. They do need decent quality Torx bits, though. I shattered a couple of bits from a set (think they were the ones that came with one of the Makitas), which apart from being a nuisance tends to send bit of metal shrapnel flying in all directions. Since I switched to using Wera bits I've had no problem at all, apart from the price of the things. I now use the Wera HF bits exclusively, as they have the advantage of gripping the screw tight, so you can fit a screw to the bit and it stays there, useful for one-handed operation.1 point
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I think they make great screws. Ive bought thousands for our cladding from this place: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de Recommended by @Onoff and considerably cheaper than anything I could find in the UK - delivery is super fast.1 point
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You mean the big plastic sheets of a roll that I use are not acceptable........1 point
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If still considering using flooring, 2200 mm lengths available Random search : https://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/engineered-wood-flooring-galleria-professional-multiply-oak-220mm-brushed-oiled1 point
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You need the 5mm offset on the architrave as somewhere for the hinges to sit. They cold be flush on the side that the door opens away from, though. I went through all of this and decided it would be better in every way to just go for MDF and paint it. Quicker, easier, cheaper, but obviously if SWMBO wants the all wood look then not an option...1 point
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I had the same dripping tap problem, my fix was the remove the ceramic disc cartridge and using a peice of glass and some Cif (any fine abrasive cleaner will do). I put a blob on the glass, dropped the ceramic disc into the blob and using a figure of 8 action polished the disc, this removes any lime scale on the disc and ensures it’s flat. Wash the disk and reassemble the tap.1 point
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I didn't see it mentioned, but are you using oak architrave, or painted? If it's painted, forget the oak door linings and paint softwood to match; it will visually 'frame' your quality doors better, and you'll never give it a second thought once they're in.1 point
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A full azimuth tracker could give around 30% more energy in the UK, but generally the cost of the tracker is too high to justify it. Better to spend the extra money on more PV point it south and have no moving parts. I've never seen a commercial setup using trackers. They all use fixed frames for a good reason I think.1 point
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Just as a data point our SE is doing the foundation design, drainage design, highway access design and SUDS / surface water design for a total of £1680 + VAT. That's not broken down, so I'm not sure what part of that is the SUDS / surface water work. I don't think it's particularly challenging on our plot but I haven't had the design yet. Plot is in the North West and approx. 1000 sq. meters in size.1 point
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Very true. My 2 internal load bearing walls either side of the stair well are also for racking strength, and for that reason covered on one side in OSB before the plasterboard.1 point
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You may find an internal wall may not be load bearing but it may be there as a racking wall, long runs of exterior walls will need internal walls to stop buckling and other things can you imagine building a complete outer shell with no internal walls, it would need to be very stiff to withstand wind pressure and loading from the trusses i would check with the frame manufacturer before getting to intothis idea. It maybe that that they can build in some nibs,and then you continue in steel, but that seems like a lot of hassle.1 point
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We have two internal load bearing stud wall supporting the Kerto beam. Often people change their minds with sizes of rooms etc so would it not be in your interest for a non load bearing stud to be built on site by your joiner. I plan to build these once the air tightness & insulation works have been completed.1 point
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O.k for comparison, 75mm x 38mm timber studs @ 600mm centres with 12.5mm wall board with no insulation, claimed Rw 35 (Source: white book A026001/005) 70mm 'C' studs @ 600mm centres with 12.5mm wall board with no insulation, claimed Rw 36 (Source: white book A206013) There is not significant difference really, and a resilient bar may add 2-3 dB. You are right about the minimums and the acoustic ones for building regs aren't exactly great, but its getting the good acoustic treatment where it is needed, and where its actually going to make a difference in how the house is lived in. In the case of the one wall, to beef it up acoustical, the frame type (metal or wood) isn't what will give the best treatment, think about additional plasterboard layers, denser plasterboard, resilient bars, or even independent wall leaves.1 point
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Don't you find that when dealing with large companies that staff are becoming more like brainless muppets? The Computer say NO!1 point
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Proves how bloody dense some people are. When my hubby had mesothelioma (asbestos cancer) the electrician we had here was telling us that he had seen young men taking extreme risks with asbestos, including the more dangerous types. It’s one of those things that will never happen to them, a bit like smoking and lung cancer, but it’s a totally devastating disease if you are one of the unlucky ones. Having seen what it can do I would never feck about with it.0 points