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About Andrew

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  1. That's internal dimensions, the two external walls of the plant room already have 140mm of fibreglass and 50mm of celotex. Yeah, I think there's another reason for him wanting it pre-plumbed, the space argument isn't really making much sense... I'm sure he has. The general builder who did the foundations and brickwork (very well) recommended him and said he'd done UFH/ASHP/UVC in the past for him. He's time served and been around the block. He readily admits the electrical / controls side isn't his thing but the electrician does lots of renewables and is happy to lead that side. A bath is only 1700 long - why not a full bathroom 🙂
  2. I went for high enough to be out of the way but low enough to reach from steps.
  3. Thanks for the replies all. He says due to the available space - he reckons pre-plumbed will be more compact than he can plumb it. It's not that tight, it's going in a 2m x 2m plant room (albeit with a UFH manifold, MVHR unit and all the electrics / networking). I suspect it's probably just easier for him although he has offered to knock off the time it would take him to plumb from his price if I can get a pre-plumbed one. Good to know. It doesn't show the twin immersions on the technical data PDF, but I can see it in the feature list on their site. I'll give the sites suggested a try and see what they come up.
  4. Just doing our first fix plumbing and the question of which cylinder came up. These are the requirements :- - Unvented - 400 litre (we'll have 5 bathrooms) - Single indirect coil suitable for a heat pump input. - Spark wants two immersion heaters so that the Solar PV diverter can run on the second. - Plumber wants a pre-plumbed cylinder. It's going in a fairly tight space and he argues a pre-plumbed cylinder will be more compact (and I suspect easier for him) I was planning to get the Telford heat pump cylinder but it's only available pre-plumbed up to 300 litres and doesn't have two immersions. I did ask Telford customer services but they were mostly useless and just pointed me at the merchant, who didn't really want to know as it obviously wasn't a quick standard sale. Does anyone know of a cylinder that might fit the bill? Thanks.
  5. This is where I'm considering buying my Samsung ASHP from - Don't know if that's a good price or not for the Ecodan.
  6. We’ve just finished having our frame insulated and they used this between the studs - Didn’t seem to be any shortage as far as I could tell and seems to have the same performance as Frametherm 32.
  7. If a business is VAT registered it has to charge VAT on all eligible goods and services irrespective of who delivers the service. If they are going to be invoicing for the work, both the materials and labour should have VAT applied, which in your case would be zero rated as it's a new build. If the fitting element will be invoiced seperately directly by the non-VAT registered fitter then that would not attract VAT but that would be quite a messy and irregular way of billing.
  8. Thanks for the suggestions. I've got a magic sponge on order along with some stuff called the pink stuff which the window company have suggested. If neither work (I have fairly low hopes) then I'll have to explore swapping the trim. It does seem to be a bit of a drawback of timber frame that the expensive (and relatively delicate) windows and doors go in before the external finishes. Anyway lesson learned, everything else will be covered in clear plastic before they start near it.
  9. This is my own stupid fault for not covering it up, but the brickies left some mortar that had fallen onto the cill of our backdoor overnight. It looks like it's etched into the finish somehow and everything I've tried so far (fairly mild cleaning products) hasn't had any effect. Does anyone have any tricks up their sleeves for how to get this out? I've contacted the window company to see if they have any ideas but it's like a ghost ship as everyone is on holiday and I can't get a reply. They are Rationel doors so I guess it may be possible to buy replacement trims and swap them out. All the windows and doors near brickwork are now very well covered up.
  10. Probably a case of trying to be more clear with communication. I saw our approved inspector for the first time since lockdown yesterday. There was a couple of things she was a bit wooly about so I asked her clearly 'So what do you want us to do about x'. I followed up and confirmed this by email later which all gets logged into their system. Honestly I think your simplest and best course of action is to call the inspector and ask them to clarify exactly what they want you to do. Hopefully the answer will be nothing and then just confirm this in an email so its on record.
  11. Cheers for the info @jamieled, that's good to know actually. I agree it does look sharp 👌
  12. @jamieled - Thanks for posting. I'm curious, on your reveals is there anything behind the gap I've circled in this photo? I'm wondering what level of weather protection is required for the cladding reveals. Thanks.
  13. Thanks and no problem. This tape looks pretty good for the job -
  14. Thanks for the replies. I think this is what I'll do. Do you happen to remember which tape you used? It is the finished floor, the intention is to have a glued down bamboo floor in some areas and tiles in others. Ignoring the fact I need to bond to it, to get a completely airtight envelope using a VCL/DPM I'd need to cover the entire 140m2 ground floor which has lots of internal partitions / internal load bearing walls - sounds a bit of a nightmare tbh. We used the Tetris insulated block and beam flooring system which doesn't need a DPM according to the manufacturer. Our SE specified a DPM anyway but this went under the top layer of Tetris insulation so we could staple the UFH to the top layer of insulation before pouring 75mm reinforced concrete. That DPM was lapped under the DPC the timber frame sole plate sits on by the frame erectors.
  15. Our timber frame company are installing insulation and the vapour control / airtightness layer as part of their package. They have not sealed at floor level which I don't think will lead to very good airtightness as air will simply escape through this junction. I've attached a photo, construction is 140mm timber frame filled with fibreglass insulation, 50mm PIR over the studs and then VCL on top. At the wall / floor joist junction at the top I have convinced them to install a Terry tray detail which wraps around the joists and the VCL is taped to that. The floor is insulated B+B with 75mm concrete on top. There is a DPM but this has been lapped under the DPC underneath the sole plate. You can see the DPC sticking out under the wall. I'm tempted to tape to this but I guess there's still a possibility that air can escape underneath. Is the DPC normally trimmed and the VCL attached directly to the concrete floor? The floor is very dusty, I'm not sure the tape would stick very effectively if taped directly. Thoughts / ideas welcome, thanks.