• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

43 Neutral

About Andrew

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes, thought as much, thanks. I think I'll wait and order it when we need it.
  2. Really useful information thanks @nod. We're not going to be ready for plaster until August but everyone (builder, timber frame company, roofers!) is telling me to buy plaster and boards now. The merchants I've used for other stuff is offering multi for £7.25 a bag (ex vat) which seems a little more than it should be.
  3. Thanks, that looks spot on. I'd be really happy if ours ends up looking as sharp.
  4. That's really helpful, thanks for posting.
  5. Thanks, that detail make a lot of sense. You do see quite a few pictures with all the reveals protruding out from the cladding slightly which looks good but I don’t know how they prevent water build up on top of the top reveal. Do you have a more straight on photo of the window?
  6. I’d be really grateful for this too, thanks.
  7. Just trying to get my head around the detailing around the windows for our build. We have timber frame with horizontal Siberian Larch cladding counter battened onto the frame. This is a picture from the internet and looks like a fairly typical detail with wooden reveals around top and sides with a cill at the bottom. But I'm trying to understand what happens at the top with regards to managing moisture. Our windows will be set back into the timber frame, so there will be a fairly deep reveal across the cavity and into the top of the window. I have seen some details with a metal flashing on the top of this top wooden reveal but there are plenty of pictures like the one above without. Also is anything special needed with regards to draining the cavity above the window. Unless I'm missing something there seems a high likelihood of water pooling above the window in the cavity on top of the reveal? Has anyone done this or know how this is normally done?
  8. I'm probably being thick, but not sure I follow. As I've understood it @eandg price is :- Your £8.26 / board is for the plasterboard itself? It's £7.25/m2 for carrying the boards inside and the labour for fixing. £1/m2 for the fixings (the cost of the actual fixings) £7.25 / linear metre for the timber strapping. Presumably these are battens for masonry builds - not needed on timber frame? @nod - are you paying £2.50 / m2 for the boards or is that your labour cost? Does there exist a simple example of cost per m2 to board and skim including labour and materials? We've got massive vaulted ceilings upstairs and I've rather surprised myself that there's 1200 m2 of area to be boarded and skimmed and I can't work out if I've budgeted enough (probably not). Thanks.
  9. Reading the small print of our structural warranty the scope of what's covered is very limited, albeit the things that are covered are high impact. Moreover they seem very risk adverse during the construction process so the chances of something that's covered happening is very low. I guess there's an argument for this scrutiny having some value but it's mainly been a pain in the arse due to the poor communication between the private building inspectors (who are inspecting for building regs and the warranty company) and the people providing the assurance to the warranty provider. If I didn't think I'd need a mortgage in the future that required it, I definitely wouldn't bother. Edited to say @Russell griffiths put it much more succinctly than my feeble effort!
  10. I’ve just ordered a straight simple 2850mm staircase (13 treads - 219.3mm rise) from stairbox to serve as our temporary staircase. £235 ex vat delivered. Once it arrives should take about 5 mins to put in place and fix temporarily. I’ll ask the chippies to put some temp handrails on. Only downsides are it’s taking just over 2 weeks to come and it may put me on a sticky wicket with the VAT reclaim as I’ll try including both the temporary staircase and the real one in the claim to see if they notice 🙂.
  11. Thanks for explaining. I hadn’t considered having the UFH circulating pump going without heated water from the ASHP. Like you say other than a bit of wear on the pump it wouldn’t do any harm. Looking at an apparently suitable 3 port / 2-way valve it looks like there is a micro switch that could be used to sense the position of the valve - . Presumably this could be wired up in such a way to control the circulating pump to only come on when the ASHP is supplying water to the UFH?
  12. I’ve been looking at this setup recently as need to start looking for someone to install the ASHP and DHW systems. The heat pump I have my eye on (Samsung) does similar to this but the controller uses a single 3-way diverter valve to route between UFH and DHW. The bit I’m struggling with is how the UFH circulation pump is controlled. The UFH has a timer / thermostat which connects to the ASHP controller to make a demand for heat. Presumably the UFH circulation pump connects through the Thermostat and diverter valve and only runs when there is a demand for heat and the diverter valve is in the heating position? is that how it’s normally wired?
  13. I've just spent £5k on fascias and soffits, fitted. Budget was £3k including the gutters. Went for plastic as don't want the maintenance but was amazed how quickly the cost of the materials added up. Valley boards and noggins - had no idea what these were two weeks ago. Turns out the roofer doesn't do them and they weren't included in the timber frame package. Fortunately the lads on site did it for beer money but it's all these little things that add up really really quickly.
  14. We have clay, an oak tree and two ash trees within 10m of the house. Soil investigation was 4 trial pits to 2.5m cost £1330. Soil investigation confirmed piling was best option (to SE). Piling company weren't that interested in the soil investigation - said they wouldn't know how deep they need to go until the piles go in. In the end the 50 piles were between 5.0 and 6.0 metres deep. I don't see anything in this NHBC document that mandates a depth other than trial pits being at least 3m - Are you planning to have an NHBC warranty?
  15. Install looks great. I spent a couple of hours yesterday trying to find an image of a plenum in a stud wall and today one shows up on build hub. Thanks for posting this, has really helped me visualise a couple of things. How did you find the wall mounted plenum - looks like a tight fit and you've had to put in a bit of hanging stud to fix it to? I'm also a bit concerned about drilling a 75mm hole in a 89mm stud but it seems to be the way it is done. What height are your posi-joists, they look like PS10 / 253mm?