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  1. Andrew

    Ground beam costs

    That’s really helpful, thanks Russell. Good to know I’ve got a decent quote on the table. The variation in piling quotes is massive. Got one today for piling only which is 4x the best quote I’ve had. They clearly didn’t want to do the ground beam.
  2. Andrew

    Ground beam costs

    Thanks for the response. I've spent the morning ringing round and have found another couple of companies to quote, so hopefully they will be better.
  3. Andrew

    Ground beam costs

    Looks like we are going to have piled foundations with a ring beam and an insulated block and beam floor. I've been gathering quotes for the piling, which has been challenging as there doesn't seem to be any local piling contractors. The only quote I've had which wasn't clearly a 'we don't want to do this' price seemed fine for the piling (at about £220 per pile + £900 mobilisation) but the price for the ring beam was higher than expected at almost £9k. The length of the ring beam is approx. 85 linear meters and the cross-section size is 350mm by 450mm. I make that around 14 m3 of concrete which SPONS tells me should be around £150 per m3 - £2100. There's the cost of the rebar, which SPONS prices per tonne, but being really conservative with my estimates that's an extra £1.5k. Which leaves £5.5k of labour. I should also mention the quote specifically says it assumes the concrete can be poured into a neatly dug trench (prepared by others) without the need for any temporary formwork (formwork is an extra £2,210 if required). So with that in mind, I'm looking for any thoughts on whether my feeling that the ring beam quote is expensive is valid or not. I'm trying to get more quotes but it's difficult in the piling black hole of South West Cheshire.
  4. Andrew

    Strip, raft or piles

    This is the perspective the builder is providing - he knows what's been built locally and it's all strip foundations. It feels like science (investigations and engineers) vs the builder's nose.
  5. Andrew

    What does this even mean?

    I’ve found that the consultants our architect ‘knows’ tend to be on the expensive side. Always worth getting an independent quote for this sort of thing.
  6. Andrew

    Strip, raft or piles

    Normally concrete ground bearing but I think he'd do either.
  7. Andrew

    Strip, raft or piles

    This was one of the four trial pits.
  8. Andrew

    Strip, raft or piles

    We've finally received our soil investigation report (wish we'd have done it much earlier) and it's not great news. The ground is mainly soft sandy clay with low bearing capacity. This is what the soil investigation report said :- Our structural engineer has reviewed the report and this is their comments I've also spoken to a local friendly builder, older chap, seen and done it all, constructed most of the houses in the village built in the last 50 years. He's just finished the foundations on a house a few hundred meters down the road. His view is why waste your money on a raft or piling, I'll do some lovely strip foundations for you, building control will check them out. it'll be fine. My preference would be a raft foundation but there's some conflicting advice above. I'm pretty sure the local builder can be discounted but the SE seems to have some reservations. Would welcome any thoughts on the above and specifically the SE's concern regarding tilting of the raft. We are using timber frame mostly timber clad if that makes any difference. Thanks.
  9. Thanks for going to the trouble to post this - really appreciated.
  10. Andrew

    Service Void size for down lights

    Thanks for the responses. I think the main difference in depth comes down to wether the downlight is fire rated or not - all of the really slimline ones seem not to be fire rated. Same goes for dimmable - I haven't been able to find a 20mm or so deep one which is dimmable. With regards to the fire rating - I can't find a definition of when a downlight needs to be fire rated. I've had a read through of the building regs and I'm none the wiser. Is there an easy to understand set of rules around when a downlight needs to be fire rated? The ones I'm concerned with are upstairs rooms with only the roof above.
  11. Thanks for the response. Nothing is built yet. The cladding is being fixed to 25mm vertical battens which are attached to the studs in the frame. The cladding is std Siberian larch.
  12. Does anyone happen to have a detail for an inside corner where timber cladding meets brick? Architect seems a little unsure and I'm slightly concerned about rain penetration into the timber frame where they meet. We're just attaching the cladding onto the outside of the frame. The cladding is horizontal over vertical battens. Brick work will have a 60mm cavity from the frame. I've attached a simple image showing the area in question - this is just for illustration.
  13. Our build has mostly vaulted ceilings upstairs and I'm just trying to finalise the spec. with the timber frame supplier. Our roof build up includes mineral wool between the rafters and then 50mm of PIR on the inside across the rafters, the vapour control layer and then 35x45mm battens to form a service void which will then take the plasterboard on top. I recall reading here about difficulties installing down lights due to the service void being too shallow (unfortunately I can't find the post again) and this got me thinking as to what is a suitable size for the service void. Looking at low profile down lights, they seem to need 60-70mm of clearance and even taking into account 12.5mm of that depth is going to be through the plasterboard, I don't think the 35mm we currently have specified is going to be enough. I wondered what others had done for the sloping ceiling service void. I'm thinking 2 x 25mm deep battens may be enough but would love to hear any real-world experience in this area.
  14. Andrew

    SUDS drainage design quote? High?

    Just as a data point our SE is doing the foundation design, drainage design, highway access design and SUDS / surface water design for a total of £1680 + VAT. That's not broken down, so I'm not sure what part of that is the SUDS / surface water work. I don't think it's particularly challenging on our plot but I haven't had the design yet. Plot is in the North West and approx. 1000 sq. meters in size.
  15. I did see the oval stuff and wondered if it would go through stud walls fairly easily. Thanks again - I can see how this could work now.