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Hang an equivalent wreath on the inside and attach to the ribbon to counterbalance it

Following on from finishing our blockwork a few weeks ago, our brickie came back the next week and fitted the concrete cills. We then had a short wait before before our joiners could come back on site and fit the remaining Siberian larch cladding. Here are some photos. The next exterior job will be rendering, but with the winter weather it might be some time before this can be done. Our attention will now be concentrated on getting the house to 1st fix, fitting the insulation is the first job on the list.

Ooh, then battery powered LED Xmas lights going up the lines. Patent pending. ?

PVGIS will give you average daily amounts by month, as well as total annual yield. You can play with slope and orientation to give you a good idea of the best angles to use. In fact it looks as if the new PVGIS 5 will give hourly outputs, but I haven't tried it. http://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_static/en/intro_tools.html#PVP I'm not convinced by east/west splits because in the winter there just isn't any sun from those directions and in the summer you'll probably be generating too much anyway. I choose about 45 degrees slope and SSW orientation ('cause that's the way the bank faces). I made a frame of scaffold poles, as the commercial systems were too expensive, and I wasn't convinced of the longevity of wooden posts. Used U-bolts to attach the panels to the scaffold poles, drilled holes in the frame for them.

Indeed they do, under "nuisance", and probably the EH Department. In the meantime a mirror carefully directed?

Use TWO command.com strips....

Dont worry it'll be shattered by other means before then- Im so used to whacking my big f-off metal curry spoon on the edge of my pan or wok with my other crap 'leccy hob, that sooner or later Im going to forget/ go at it hammer & tongs as usual, & inadvertantly smash the fkr up.

But newhome what I mean is I don't have the luxury of '3 for keeping warm' (I wish!). My minimum, is '1.. for a fast simmer'. I can't put it to 0.5 as its a switch on-off pot that 'bumps on' @1. To slow simmer I have to park pan 2/3rds off- 1/3rd on, & even so the heat catches the side if left for 10mins. The max side of dial is n/a, as I only need to get to city-wok-hot, which I get to @ 5 (so half of dial 'range' is suspiciously redundant..). Anyway, most of tiling done.. damn nasty job @ sockets without electric cutter (but drill bits great- yet another Onoff essential buy!). Not a perfect job, walls badly out means annoying gap at the corner, & fiddly slivers I can't seem to cut to finish the LHS edge.. but progress/ spurred me on for the ~last leg this week. Thanks chaps!

Suction hook near top, inside of door with ribbon loop going over to where you want the wreath and a little 's' hook or more ribbon for the wreath itself. Less likely to fall off if hook on inside

Been watching a few of these recently. It's a US series where, I think, they usually look at renovations, but the last series on Home has been a new factory-made house. I find it far more interesting than the UK series as they go into some detail on many aspects of the build. For example, showing you how to lay out and attach shingles (not that I can ever imagine wanting to use shingles!). They can do this as they cover each job over a number (many?) programmes. The house in the current series was wrapped in Raindrop 3D, which Kingspan don't seem to sell in the UK. This appears to allow you to clad directly on to it (without using battens), as its surface has drainage channels. On another programme I've seen them using a plastic mesh over a membrane rather than battens. Last week they poured the walls of an open-sided basement and unless I misheard they shuttered and poured all in one day. They used reusable shuttering. Terminology is different too. Building code rather than regulations, R values rather than U values, different term for MVHR (but can't remember what). It looks like Home may not be showing any more in the current run, but I've watched some from season 40 online. PS I have absolutely nothing to do with the programmes, UKTV, or Kingspan. Just found them interesting and could find only one very specific reference to them on here

Plastic coated door? Suckers! Random eBay image: eBay, Amazon, Wilco etc. Available in different diameters. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-suction-hooks-30mm-20pk/p/0344714?

I use stick on cable fixings ( a BT product that I acquired when I worked fir them)

Bet that went well...

Green scourer and some white spirit and then a good couple of coats of patination oil. Do not use sandpaper ..!!

We used Pear Stairs. Very good service and at the time, the best price we could get for solid oak with 10mm thick glass panels. They do custom designs via an online service, and send you a link to a 3D model of your stairs so you can see what they will look like before you commit to the order.

I couldn’t condone it but a well placed air rifle pellet usually sends the right message .... especially from the angle that it came from a neighbours house ....!

I have no desire to try and use a phone as a computer.

The mirror really appeals, however I suspect the light is somewhere it won't affect the occupants. Might give it a go though

Unistrut? Or one of the cheaper clones. Galvanised, lasts pretty well down here as long as you galv spray the ends.

There's nothing wrong with a preference though @Tony99. If he/she is pushing b&b simply ask why in preference to other methods. Good luck.

@joe90 You have the Lossnay unit same as me I believe? You can speed up both the intake and exhaust fans by using the dip switched on the board. I don't have the exact manual as the ones on line are for a very slightly different control board. But with the unit on, go and turn each dip switch on one at a time, and you will find one speeds up the inlet fan a bit, and another speeds up the exhaust fan a bit. Handy to balance it if there is a difference between inlet and outlet airflow. I have not balanced mine yet either.

Yes, you're right...I think I need to have another chat with him about this! I think my idea of whose responsibilities things are is not quite correct...

I think that is very true. One I’ve dealt with for a while knows that corners are not being cut and that if something isn’t right then it will be coming back out to be redone ..!! Also there is no hiding stuff either as he’s happy that the job is as open as possible - the flip side to all this is when you do hit a snag, a quick call gets you an answer.

Hi Russ, FYI Tata Urban Colorcoat was about £36.00 sq/m in 06/17 once you included eaves, ridge and verge and delivery.....

Stuffed it full of 2 grab adhesives & it seems to have filled it thank god.. fingers x'd it won't bulge the box out. good suggestion (sorry dinnae know what 'no nails' actually is- assumed a grab adhesive) Finally got the last twunty thin tile bit cut too- 15 tries later..

you better be certain where the boundaries are on the deeds I would be getting copy of land title and talking to your legal man before doing anything If you weaken the ground and cause them subsidence --you will be paying in scotland you cannot build anything with 1 m of boundary anyway

My corrugated iron worked out about £10/m2, for the heaviest grade of sheeting with the most durable coating, inc all flashings and fixings. If you go for thinner sheets with a galv finish, and no fixings or flashings, it's about £5/m2.

Love the idea of a concave mirror, carefully aimed to shine the light straight back as a focussed beam. Around here we have the "outside light police", as the AONB is trying to gain "Dark Skies" accreditation. As a consequence no one has any bright outside lights and everyone walks around the village with torches at this time of the year. I had to seek approval for our low power (10 W) outside lights from the bloke that polices the Dark Skies thing, but he was fine with them as long as they were all on PIR switched timers and pointed downwards. One really nice feature of having very dark skies here is that we get to see things like satellites and the ISS transiting overhead, as well as getting a good view of meteor events (when it's not too cloudy).

Alternatively ...

Problem solved! https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Lightshow-Projection-Plus-Whirl-a-Motion-Static-Wreath-Red-White-Green/123210588060?ul_ref=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?

And make sure anything you hang will bounce...

To chuck another angle at it, I have recently spoken to two small developers who are both changing the way they build as they can’t get the trades to build how they are used to, for example bricklayers are calling all the shots in the south east at the moment demanding the highest pay I have ever seen. Would it be wise to build in block if you can’t get blocklayers timberframe has many plus points as well as minus points, if you are on a tight time frame I wouldn’t dream of blocks, too many things to hold you up, trades and the weather also you need to look at following trades each build method is different you need to do your own research to iron out the little bits im an ex bricklayer and I’m building in icf.

So your looking to do a self build and from what it seems from your post you wanted to go for a timber frame but as your architect likes block your going to go that way. It's your money paying for the build so go and do your research and tell him that to draw up the plans to suit your choice. If it's timber then fine. Most timber frame companies will offer you certain packages with a u value to suit your budget and a max target for airtightness that they guarantee they will hit.

Yes but the Steibel is the "safety net" If you are the unlucky one that has the last shower and it runs cold, then the Steibel will let you finish your shower and get the shampoo out of your hair, but you might have to turn the flow down a bit to maintain an acceptable temperature. That is it's purpose, and sounds infinitely better than nothing but cold water to rinse your hair. That is all it is for, nothing more nothing less.

I think it’s more a case of what your architect comes back with!

+1 to 3M Command Strips, we use them all the time, much easier than anything else unless it's really heavy. You can get the hooks in clear plastic now I believe.

The sticky things are not strong enough for mine......Blue Peter badge holder needed

Two drawing pins into the top ( top not face ) of the door and some fishing line between the two as a cradle.

https://www.aqva.co.uk/Bathrooms/194479?gclid=CjwKCAiAjNjgBRAgEiwAGLlf2tWYqvL4esfgwrj5N7JPraz-w68YwXoAo4dto1CBziyAw1K6ml7thRoC1m8QAvD_BwE We would be walking in the 900 side. We would try it 1st without a door, can always add one in later.

Screed to falls...that was a bloody good idea! Got a pic of the problem area?

they also do another version without the hook, where there are two halves for the wall and the pic, and the adhesion is like Velcro.

Not a silly question We had the same dilemma last weekend Our neighbour bought us a lovely Wreath and we thought we can’t just not put it up If there’s a way to attach it I couldnt find it ?

The whole point of this particular heater is it only operates when needed. If the input temperature already meets it's set point, it will not heat it. So in the Mac D case they could just do as I have done and have it in the output of the UVC with no need for changeover valves. As to flow rate, the fact the shower, all plumbed in 15mm and now passing through the "restrictions" of the heater, can still deliver 17L per minute says flow rate is not an issue. If I were plumbing this again, I would have used standard ballofix valves for the showers, not the full bore ones, that would have reduced the shower flow a bit. I don't want to heat the tank water any hotter from the ASHP I am trying to get the best COP and least defrosting possible from that. Shortly I will be installing solar PV. For much of the year excess from that will keep the tank hot so I would then expect this run out of hot water to only be an occasional winter problem, which the Stiebel Eltron will deal with. A case of making it a robust system that will cover all eventualities. Like @joe90 I anticipated I might need this (thanks to @JSHarris for originally finding this particular heater and suggesting the idea) and had already installed a 10mm cable and spare rcbo in the consumer unit.

It is good to know I am not the only one @lizzie

One of the reasons I wouldn't fit one. This is a case of prevention is better than cure IMO. Just hit the immersion and job done, thats if you actually need it thats is. A 300L UVC set up correctly should give bags of DHW. Lets say Joe Blogs asks for one to be fitted. All up I bet you'd be in for a minimum of £500.00 £500 worth of electricity would get you around 3,500 kWh of juice. Put that through an ASHP and use a multiplier of 2.5 ( SCoP ) and you have ~8,700 kWh to spend on "boost". You then dont have to worry about running out of water and telling the family to slow the flow down when you run out of hot water Turn up the stat Dave ! Case dismissed. As a note, these instant heaters are routinely fitted ( multiples of ) in places like McDs and KFCs as doomsday devices, so if the UVCs go off for any reason the restaurants ( lol ) can simply switch manual lever valves and divert to the instants in order to tick the boxes required to stay open.

@Jude1234 funnily enough I have exactly the same question! LOL

If it’s fairly smooth then you can use something like the 3M command strip hooks as they don’t mark when you remove them.

I’m with @Nickfromwales on this one. I’ve set one of these up to go to 52c on the ASHP but boost to 65c overnight on E7 using the immersion. That will take about 85 mins with 3kw immersion and cost around 35p at low rate. Using the 8.8kw Stiebel in-line during peak time would allow me to only use it for 10 minutes for the same cost so that’s a very short shower. I would also have a cold tank and still need to boost every time for hand washing etc. so it will cost more over the day too.

I'll have you know I swing both ways! Can't beat a drop of Chateauneuf-du-Pape...now where's that pint pot... Wine, beer, just haven't touched spirits for over 30 years now.

When I open my eyes in the morning ... the box is there because some bozo has a floodlight set to come on at dusk and stay on all night.