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DavidFrancis last won the day on September 27 2016

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About DavidFrancis

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    Regular Member

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  • About Me
    Not building a new house. Have a rubble stone house with a 1970s flat-roof extension and spend a fair bit of time on maintenance and small/medium sized improvements.

    Barely done any DIY until moving into this house, so find this site a useful way of improving my knowledge.

    Watch far too many TV programmes on building/renovating houses and like the idea of doing a self-build but the stress would probably give me a nervous breakdown.
  • Location
    South-west Lancashire

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  1. DavidFrancis

    TF - soundproofing and loadbearing

    @scottishjohn nod is referring to Metsec studs, not British Gypsum ones. Look at their web site - they do structural studs.
  2. DavidFrancis

    Electricity heating conundrum!

    Why not turn off the hot water tank for an extended period to see what happens. I used to turn off my combi in the summer and used a kettle for washing up water. The washing machine can probably heat the water it needs. (Used to shower at the gym/swimming pool in case anyone is concerned!)
  3. DavidFrancis

    Quick check, please..... wallplate

    If you put a wall plate on the end wall you won't be able to fit the posi-joist to that wall, as the plate will then be in the way, from what I remember. If you moved the plate along so that it abuts the end wall, would the resulting 50mm(?) gap in the middle cause a problem? But couldn't you just fit the last joist to the end of the plate as it currently stands? Aren't you putting 18mm OSB on top? It's not going to flex with a 50mm overhang, especially with a whole load of PIR on top of that. And the roof's not going to have any load on it except for someone up there clearing the drain hole!
  4. DavidFrancis

    The Build - plaster boarding and insulation

    I've wondered about that too!
  5. DavidFrancis


    Thanks @nod What about the doors themselves - and even the metal framing?
  6. @AliMcLeodwhen I switched to Bulb they were the cheapest decently-rated supplier that MSE listed. But Bulb were going to increase our direct debit by 20-odd quid (a month) in November so I checked-out MSE again and I think the BG deal was the second cheapest of those suppliers that had a customer service rating, so the boiler cover is more-or-less free. I had a big problem with BG about 10 years ago and I've seen horror stories since, so I know I'm taking a bit of a gamble.
  7. DavidFrancis


    @nod where did you get the parts from? I'm probably going to have to make up a replacement built-in wardrobe in the next few months and I live not far from you. Thanks
  8. I've just switched to the British Gas deal (referred to above) as it includes "free" boiler cover and our boiler is now 16 years old and has not been particularly reliable. Don't know if Bulb will still do the cashback for me!?
  9. We've been with Bulb since July. No problems so far. From what I remember they've only got one tariff and it's variable, and we're soon to get a price increase. If you like the look of them I think I have a cashback link which would get you more than switching by a comparison web site. This would also get me something, though!
  10. I used to be an insurance broker many years ago and I wouldn't be suprised if the insurers are relucant to cover any losses. I've just looked at an Aviva policy, purely as an example, and without "accidental damage" cover I'd say their policy wouldn't cover these kinds of electrical damage losses and even their accidental damage extension has an exclusion of "electrical or mechanical breakdown". If the original cause of the problems was a fire, an explosion, a falling tree etc then the cover should operate, but for a faulty connection somewhere, there maybe a problem claiming. Not all policies are the same, but in this area I think they are mainly pretty similar. But I did leave the business 30 years ago, so I could be talking out of my posterior.
  11. DavidFrancis


    According to the government's latest fire statistics, about half of all dwelling fires start in kitchens, so if you're thinking about where to place an extinguisher then in or near the kitchen would be good. May be of interest to Lizzie: smoke alarms failed to operate (or failed to raise the alarm - not sure of the distinction) in about 30% of dwelling fires, but only 20% of mains-powered alarms failed, whereas 40% of battery-powered ones failed (mostly because the battery was either missing or defective). See https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/650926/detailed-analysis-fires-attended-fire-rescue-england-hosb1617.pdf About 8% of fire fatalities come from candle fires and 35% from "smokers materials", so if you use neither your chances of dying in a fire are much improved!
  12. DavidFrancis

    fire in the house

    Which? magazine tested smoke alarms a year or so ago. From what I remember, there were quite significant variations in speed of detection, depending on the source of the smoke (plastic, wood etc). May have only been battery-operated ones though? Can't remember. https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/smoke-alarms/article/how-to-buy-the-best-smoke-alarms
  13. DavidFrancis

    Greenstar 24i/28i Junior

    I've spoken to the WB technical support quite a few times and they've always been helpful: 0330 123 3366
  14. DavidFrancis

    New Windows Scotland

    Why don't you start by looking through this section?: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/142-windows-glazing/
  15. DavidFrancis

    Dry rot in our 1930's semi detached

    Don't know if this will help, but there's this article on dry rot on the buildingconservation.com web site: http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/dry-rot/dry-rot.htm