Andy H

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About Andy H

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  • Birthday 16/04/1960

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  • About Me
    I've retired early aged 60. I have 2 children, one girl age 11 and a boy age 14 and we live with their mum in Muswell Hill, London. I'm active- plenty of walking, cycling & running and prior to the Covid, regular outdoor swims in the Hampstead Ponds.

    I have an interest in how to live a long healthy life and now added to that is a new interest in self building
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    London

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  1. I attach price list I received from Polar wall yesterday. I got a sense they could be flexible on price. I spoke at length to the Company yesterday (Alan Wheeler) and apart from him obviously promoting his product picked up useful information that was generally applicable. The most interesting thing was that concrete doesnt need to include a water proof additive if it is made with 350kg of cement and a water: cement ratio of less than 0.45. With this spec it will be waterproof. He quoted an old BS 8007 standard. I have yet to verify this but if true would give me a saving as I was planning to use waterproof concrete in my below grade walls. Price list 2020-doc.pdf Price list PLUS 2020-doc.pdf
  2. Logix is an American product, the distributor in the UK is Build Homes Better https://buildhomesbetter.co.uk/ whom are also the distributor for Isoquick the Insulated slab product. Lasst week I attended 2 x 2 hour web training sessions held by Logix America. They were very good covering all the main points most of which is relevant to other suppliers ICF blocks. I was able to get questions I had answered during the web session. Logix is sitting high on my list as ICF choice but I have not yet commited and am waiting on Covid restrictions lifting so I can get to a site to handle the product as recomended by @Chanmenie and others.
  3. I am in the process of selecting my ICF supplier. I watched the video on the polarwall site. I thought it raised some interesting points to consider and am going to give it some further consideration. There claim that XPS is better than EPS needs to be questioned. I have previously done a bit of reading on the subject and whilst it may have more compresive strength, absorb water more slowly and a slightly better insulation value the compresive strength is not relevant in its use as an ICF block, it holds onto the water it absorbs more than eps(leading to lower R value) and tends to be a bit more expensive. You could check out this link for more information https://innovativebuildingmaterials.com/eps-insulation-vs-xps-insulation/ Like you I would be interested to hear any feedback from members who have used Polarwall. Have you had a quote or estimate from them?
  4. Sorry my error you are correct Thermohouse is from Ireland. I was getting mixed up with Econekt in Scotland who supply Izodom from Poland (This was my most expensive quote) I found Thermohouse responded quickly to my calls and I attach a price sheet they sent me for their products. The price list is all priced in cost per meter squared. Whilst the prices look low there is a high distribution cost and I was quoted around £1500 for 110m2. Factoring in the distribution I found the total price similar to Nudura. 2020 Guide Rate .pdf
  5. Thanks for the comments and clear diagrams. I will investigate this 1/3 , 2/3 split. Do you or any other member know if the issue of interstitial condensation goes away if wooden beams are not used within the roof structure? What package are you using to make your diagrams in? Kind regards Andy
  6. I can't comment on the past but my interpretation of the current guidance is that it relates to the whole building.
  7. Thanks Jack I'll do a search on "rough plastering". On the running services I was thinking about having them on the wall within some protective conduit if I went for the woodcrete. I am quite attracted to the idea of a more industrial look - I haven't progressed the thinking to find out if it fits within building regulations yet. I am still on the foundations, walls and roof investigation phase!
  8. Yes you are quite accurate I have had around 14 Muck away trucks already! I decided against planning for cost and time delays and in any event wouldnt want a building in my garden that was much above 2.5m high as it would dominate the garden so I would have still had to dig down to get sufficient height.
  9. Half way through I was beginning to think the same! I think we decided to do it because the tree surgeon said we wouldnt be able to do it.
  10. The idea was for the beams themselves to be laid with the 1:40 slope. Your point on visual clutter is worthy of serious consideration, I have just been mathematical about it. Your comments have also got me thinking of whether my sloping beams may look odd to the eye. I am trying to work along passive house principles, hence the 200mm insulation. The foundation is going to be an insulated slab and the walls ICF. So far I cant work out how I avoid any thermal bridges at the wall/roof intersection, particularrly if I allow the beams (and roof)to extend out beyond the walls to to provide some cover for the windows from the mid summer sun Thank you for your comments. Andy
  11. I can have a pitched roof but the ridge of the roof is still restricted to 2.5m as I am within 2m of neighbouring boundaries. My thinking is that a flat roof with a very slight decline from back to front to facilitate water run off would maximise internal space -but this is my first build so I am open to suggestions. Thanks Andy
  12. I am going to self build and this is my first job. My intention is to wait for the lockdown to end and get onto one of the courses run by my chosen supplier. I would supplement this with 2 or 3 visits by the supplier at key points, including attendance for concrete pouring to act as further training / quality control. I am building a single storey structure with walls 3.25m high, 0.75m below ground and and 2.5m above ground with all of the window and door openings on one wall. All of the suppliers I have spoken to seem to think a single poor would be fine even though their technical specs indicate otherwise. I guess the technical specs are being conservative but I think I will follow the technical guides and go with 2 pours, the first being with waterproof concrete for the below ground wall. I am considering the use of woodcrete (but am not yet decided) because of the discussed lack of a need for bracing. I have noted the discussion on this earlier in the thread and would visit a build in progress to see the level of bracing required. My other reason for considering woodcrete is it introduces the possibility of not needing internal or external cladding. I am being sent a sample to which I could try sanding, varnishing or painting to see if it is attractive (to my eyes!) I noted in an earlier comment the tolerance of the woodcrete blocks not being good enough for providing smooth walls. I will need to investigate this. Kind regards Andy
  13. I suspect it would work out cheaper if you are doing the job yourself and not factoring in a cost for your own labour. In addition if I have understood the properties of woodcrete correctly, it is more thermally conductive than EPS and so the woodcrete form itself acts as a themal bridge albeit at a very low level, as the woodcrete runs the whole way through the block.
  14. Did you get a quote from AMVIC?