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Found 6 results

  1. Hi all. New member here.. im extending my wood frame cottage in Sweden After removing the topsoil in the footprint of the extension we have found granite bedrock, the highest point of which is just manageable for the required floor height. However... there is a depression in the granite that appears to hold water and will only very slowly drain away through cracks in the bedrock. We plan to build over the top of this area. Other than blasting a trench, any ideas for the management of this problem? Being Sweden, this will freeze solid in the winter. Possible remedies....? backfill with concrete/substrate? build on higher footings and ignore? Photo shows the direction of the fall of the plot, high ground behind me with bedrock only just below the surface making an uperside drain or barrier another problem.... thanks in advance for any ideas...!
  2. We've looked at quite a few old buildings in the last few months, "old" meaning build in the area of 1860 - 1920. All of these buildings have issues with damp. My understanding (but this is more speculation) is that these buildings were originally built with an open dirt floor, so the dampness just went into the entire house and ventilated out. Putting in a floor creates a sealed off space where dampness accumulates and then seeps into the floor and walls. We've seen plenty of statements to the like of "that wall just needs some repointing or similar". This doesn't seem to be fixing the problem, just the symptom. How is the dampness problem in these buildings fixed for good? (Attaching image of one room showing the wood paneling of the original outer wall, along with the typical signs of damp, esp. in the far top corner)
  3. My partner and I recently bought a small cottage near Forres in Scotland. It has a concrete floor slab and thick masonry walls. I've been planning to add a layer of insulation to the inside of my house but have found guidance on this to be a bit vague. Some suggest that a permiable insularion should be used others a vapour barrier. There is a threat that if the wrong approach is taken damp / condensation could result. I'm hoping to hear from people who have insulated their walls successfully. What method of insulation was used? Any input or suggestions welcomed.
  4. New kitchen has been installed so looking to protect as best as I can whilst other parts of the house are plastered and painted (late Jan). Last plastering was done 3wks ago (in hallway and a small area in the kitchen where a doorway had to be blocked up. Kitchen floor also had self levelling poured 2 weeks ago. Kitchen installer mentioned covering the units with cardboard to protect it from the 'damp'. Is this wise? I would think that would just attract/absorb the humidity and bugger up the mdf.... My thought was to just take the plinths off and allow the air to circulate around the units (there's a 50mm gap up the sides). House is sealed up but has no heating yet (Sunamps should get here in Jan/Feb). Any thoughts? TIA!
  5. We have a long retaining wall in the garden which we wanted to clad in stone. The architect recommended a drystane effect but neither my wife nor I liked that idea and we wanted something less rustic. We ordered coursed sandstone and the builders have started to put it up, but the stone that came is just very very yellow. My wife has decided that she doesn't like it and I can see her point. She thinks the issue is that the sandstone pavers are not uniformly yellow. We thought they were going to be yellow when they were ordered but they ended up being mixed sandstone. For some reason getting proper samples out of people seems to be an ongoing issue. Last week we refused to let the driveway get done in resin bound stone until we had an actual sample that we liked and a full bag of it, not a 2 inch square sample in a box that bears no relation to the actual colour. Anyway, having looked at it I don't think the pavers are the problem, I think the problem is that the colour is too yellow and that it is too many different finishes. I suggested changing it to ashlar stone to match the house, however, having spoken to the architect he suggested rendering it with a sandstone cope to match the house. This I think would look the best but has issues with staining which is why we didn't do it to begin with. I have a picture of the part complete wall and a picture of a rendered wall with staining issues which we want to avoid. Thoughts would be appreciated.
  6. What are friends for? They are the ones who come to your gate, ostensibly for a natter, and say "Well, yer not going to want to hear this, but......" Yes, I haven't lined my containers ... yet. Oh that most important little word. YET. And now's the time to prepare for winter. John's (my mate) absolutely right. I have to line it Off to the BM, and bought myself £81 quids worth of pure joy. And on the way back fell to wondering what to stick between the ply and the container, if anything at all. Bitpipe I remember bought a DampStick. And on his recommendation I bought one.... haven't used it yet. I've bought some 5.5mm ply and some 2 by 2. I've researched the issue on Tinternet (YooChube) here, here and here (the last of these YT vids is eye-opening for me anyway) and on Goooooogle and this article seems to be the most objective one of all. Lining it with mud is one option, I understand. Hmmm, that's got potential hasn't it? But there's nothing about lining a container for OUR needs. So, with luck I feel a checklist coming on. Anyone got any ideas, tips, please?