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Found 7 results

  1. Hi all, the damp is on an exterior wall garage / extension. There was previous water damage from a leaking roof. The roof has been replaced, drainage sorted but 2 months after the plaster has been put on we are getting signs of water through again. The moisture meter says 75 but we are using a de-humidifer and that has reduced it to 62 within 4 hours. We had a damp report done back in March and that did not identify any signs of rising damp on the property but now are unsure about what to do next.
  2. Hello. 3 years ago we had 2 new upvc bay windows fitted by an established company in the London area. The ground floor window has sealant between the sill and the brickwork, the first floor window does not. We have damp on the first floor interior wall below the window but not on the ground floor wall below its bay window. There are large gaps between the first floor bay window sill and brickwork and 2 packing strips can be seen from street level on both sides of the bay window. (cant get photos to upload to site). I have several questions and will appreciate any thoughts. 1. Am I correct in thinking that this is how water is getting in? 2. Is it normal to seal gaps under a ground floor window sill but not a first floor sill? 3. Should I ask the installers to come back and seal the gaps? Regards DaveAF
  3. Hello Folks, What is everyone's preference when it comes to render? It seems the options we are narrowed down to is wet dash which is our preference, then we have dry dash and finally textured (smooth?) We like the look of wet dash as it seems a fool proof application which cant go wrong and is quite common here in Scotland. Our only worry being that one mans wet dash seems to be different to another, one house is never the same. I assume you can use different size chips in with the mix? I just worry we ask for wet dash and get a horrible lumpy texture like that you see on old fishing cottages for example! Dry dash has put us off slightly simply due to the fact the stones falling off the wall! Still looks nice when new. Textured looks very nice however can this be achieved without the need for special systems such as k-rend etc? This inevitably brings us to 'K-Rend', they seem to boast there renders are far superior to that of the normal mortar renders. My builder opposes this and states its money wasted which could be spent elsewhere. I somewhat agree with this, does the extra cost really benefit us in the real world? It would seem there are plenty of houses which have had the 'old fashioned' methods applied and they are doing just fine... Any thoughts or photos of examples would be great!
  4. When I laid the wet UFH pipes in our concrete slab I put a loop in both bathrooms. Now I am hoping to put an electric mat under the tiles above the wet pipe system unless the collective say otherwise. Like some I am hoping to have a subtle background heat (electric)from the bathrooms to heat the house before we go full wet pipe but not sure if this is ok above the wet pipe system. TIA
  5. Hi all be grateful for some help on a worrying (to me) scenario that has developed on our mbc frame in the last few days. Lots of rain and the building is not watertight, the roof boards leak like a sieve even with a membrane. We are going as fast as we can with trusses to get it ready for single ply membrane finish. The mbc roof boarding is really wet in places and so are the joists underneath. The walls are wet but too a lesser degree. We have puddles all over the place inside with water collection in dips in the slab so its a very warm moist atmosphere due to window openings being covered in heavy duty polythene awaiting window arrival. Yesteday I notice what appears to be black mould spots on the roof boards and the joists. Can anyone tell me if this is an issue both for construction and health. I have a serious health issue and cannot tolerate any mould whatsoever, part of the reason for the build was to have a clean air healthy house and now I have seen the mould I am very worried and in something of a panic. Pics attached. All input gratefully received. Many thanks Liz
  6. We have ikea bathroom cabinets to mount on our bathroom porcelain tiles. They are Godmorgon 40x14x96 and weigh 12kg each. I remember that the tiles being a nightmare to drill into to mount a towel rail, I had to buy some diamond drill bits and even then it took ages to drill into them and I was worried I might break the tile, they are large 60x45cm tiles. So wondering if I could mount the tiles using some 3M VHB tape like this one here Ikea had the tape on these hooks we used in the bathroom and I swear I could used them as rock climbing holds. So I'm thinking of getting a roll of tape and sticking it to wall side of the four sides of the cabinet, letting that cure for a day and then sticking it to the wall. Has anyone used that tape for doing something like this and did it work?
  7. Having moaned about the lack of protection of my xtratherm during the house build, I now find that the garage build insulated with 100mm rockwool is randomly unprotected, protected with sacking, protected with DPC. So it has got wet in the recent horrible weather. Person A tells me it will dry out Person B tells me it never dries out Given this is an unheated garage of 70m2 I can't see how the insulation in the wall can dry out. Questions: Whats the normal accepted practice (and ideally what is best practice) for looking after the rockwool type insulation during a build? Will it really dry out? Thanks
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