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Oh dear, Im worried - please put my mind at ease I have a 'regular' block and s&c render house, with a flat roof in the final stages of build. I finally had the windows sealed (rubber between frame and glass and the mastic between the s&c and frame) a few days ago. Todays rain has shown a problem on 14 of the 18 door/window openings - a wet patch at the bottom of the inner reveal (always on one side, just) - see pic. (There is S&C behind the cladding). I have noticed this previously, but the builder felt it was because the rubber on the windows was missing - obvs, Ill speak with him in the morning. What is most likely to be going on?

Hi everyone , thank you in advance for anyone that takes the time to respond to this post. I am really grateful. I have an issue when it rains that the water appears to come down through the render and drip from the seal with the window/patio door. Fortunately it drips the building side of the window and not into the house. As far as I know there is no issue with damp inside the house. You can see from the pictures that it looks like the render has been patched up around the window and patio door. There is no gutter above this section of the property and there is a valley gutter to the left. I have no issue with any other door or window. I would appreciate any help with what’s going on and if there is anything I need to watch or take remedial action on. We have been in the house for 6 years. Surfer 2BE46E8B-5AD3-4C1B-B8CF-1843621859D0.mov

I’m thinking of adding two (or maybe four?) triple-glazed roof lights to my small building refurbishment. Nothing fancy or large, maybe 600mm x 900mm in size. It’s a small space (32msq) in the Outer Hebrides, so solar gain would probably be a benefit 🤣 I want them to finish flush to the pitched roof (not stand proud or be protruding) to avoid wind noise. They don’t need to be opening, as it's a single-volume space with lower windows. I know Velux have a widely recognisable brand name, but are they the best company/windows to use, or are there other companies I should also be considering?

Hi, Has anybody got any recent quotes from Norrsken or Rationel Aura Plus windows? We are looking at 45 sq m of glazing and need them to be alu timber clad and triple glazed. Trying to work out supply and fit price per metre. Also, what sort of lead times were given to you? Appreciate any help!

I have steel beam on the outside skin. Thinking of Aluminium windows above and below. I'm thinking if inner part of widow frame touches flange of beam then thermal bridging in the frame is lost. Maybe encase beam with insulation? So how best to insulate beam? TIA

I'm editing drawings (in the absence of my architect, who is poorly), to widen the cavity between block leaves from 100mm to 150mm. I noticed a couple of descrepencies in and around the window reveals (1) window position different between the lintol & cill (see image 1) (2) block return at return different between the blockwork and the detail drawings (see image 2 & 3) My questions, please (1) should the block returns be on the inner or outer leaf at reveals, or can I choose? (I have a preference for outer leaf, as there is a 140mm inner leaf on back wall - but maybe this is not the only consideration) (2) should windows be fixed to inner or outer leaf, or can I choose? (3) when I widen the cavity to 150mm, there will be some of the insulation of steel insulated lintol exposed - can I skim this, or is there further detail required? TIA, James IMAGE 1 IMAGE 2 - Blockwork showing return on outer leaf at reveals IMAGE 3 - Jamb Details showing return on outer leaf at reveals

Hello. 3 years ago we had 2 new upvc bay windows fitted by an established company in the London area. The ground floor window has sealant between the sill and the brickwork, the first floor window does not. We have damp on the first floor interior wall below the window but not on the ground floor wall below its bay window. There are large gaps between the first floor bay window sill and brickwork and 2 packing strips can be seen from street level on both sides of the bay window. (cant get photos to upload to site). I have several questions and will appreciate any thoughts. 1. Am I correct in thinking that this is how water is getting in? 2. Is it normal to seal gaps under a ground floor window sill but not a first floor sill? 3. Should I ask the installers to come back and seal the gaps? Regards DaveAF

I'm currently working on a listed house with original single glazed Crittall windows. We'd like to improve the energy efficiency of the house if we can, and would prefer not to go down the secondary glazing route. Does anyone know if it is possible to retrofit super slim vacuum glazing into existing metal windows? The only stuff I can find online is about retrofitting it into wooden sash windows...

Hi, I'm currently renovating a house on Skye, typically in Scotland, the window recesses have check reveals. I'm looking at getting Nordan Alu-Clad Windows. Problem - there are check reveals. I want to get rid of the old timber in the recesses, the house built mid 70's I think the original Windows (long gone) attempted (badly) to close the cavities. I want to install the new windows the way the house was originally built - front face of window frame tight up to inner face of external block leaf. Problem would arise where window fixing straps/brackets are used. They'd either have to be bent a lot to reach the checked reveal thereby making it difficult to install Insulation on the reveal, or could I pack out the inner reveal with something like compacfoam and fix the brackets/straps through that and into the edge of the inner block leaf. We get some wild weather now an then so like the Windows to be recessed nicely. If I can use something like compacfoam, could I continue it into the Cavity to the inner face of the outer block leaf in order to close the cavity? Or do I make a timber frame to fit the inner block leaf window recess, fix that into the reveal then fix Windows to that? So many different ways of doing this, I'd really appreciate input as to what's the best course of action. TIA

Hi, I'm currently renovating a house on Skye, typically in Scotland, the window recesses have check reveals. I'm looking at getting Nordan Alu-Clad Windows. Problem - there are check reveals. I want to get rid of the old timber in the recesses, the house built mid 70's I think the original Windows (long gone) attempted (badly) to close the cavities. I want to install the new windows the way the house was originally built - front face of window frame tight up to inner face of external block leaf. Problem would arise where window fixing straps/brackets are used. They'd either have to be bent a lot to reach the checked reveal thereby making it difficult to install Insulation on the reveal, or could I pack out the inner reveal with something like compacfoam and fix the brackets/straps through that and into the edge of the inner block leaf. We get some wild weather now an then so like the Windows to be recessed nicely. If I can use something like compacfoam, could I continue it into the Cavity to the inner face of the outer block leaf in order to close the cavity? Or do I make a timber frame to fit the inner block leaf window recess, fix that into the reveal then fix Windows to that? So many different ways of doing this, I'd really appreciate input as to what's the best course of action. TIA

Hi all, I have seen quite a few old threads, comparing costs of different manufacturers for glazing (specifically we are hoping to get 2g aluminium clad timber). I have studied the old threads in great detail and approached a good many companies that have been mentioned for glazing quotes. The biggest issue I have had, is that when I think I have been applying directly through the websites of individual manufacturers, (Velfac, Internorm, Rational, etc) I have then been referred on to local "partners"/ "agents", consisting of only one company, local to me who supplies all these brands. I am worried that this rather takes away the competition element, to help drive down quotes, if all my options are being supplied by one company. ? Have things changed over the last few years? Why do I seem unable to go direct to the majority of manufacturers (exceptions have been Nordan & Munster - although seeing the reviews for Munster I don't think I will go through them!)? Is it the area I live in (Devon)? Or have I gone the wrong way about getting quotes i.e. do I need to ring them rather than filling in online forms and attaching my plans?

Question: in my barn conversion I have some existing opening which will become windows. But, when I measure to get quotes is it the size of the hole that I use, i.e. if the hole is 1m x 0.8m then is that what I use and the glass is smaller. Or, do I allow for the frames myself.

Original house contained cheap UPVC windows that were ill fitted and would not match the new windows in the two extensions. So the decision was made to fit new windows throughout with the original plan to go for alu-clad wooden, nut resorted to UPVC due to cost and worries on how some of the alu-clad windows were constructed. Surprising how difficult it was to get quotes that were in an affordable category. Some companies needed numerous follow-up calls which was very frustrating in view of the fact that I would be spending approx £20k on their product. In the end, although I would have preferred to buy local, I ended up sourcing windows from abroad which ended up costing a lot less than anything UK-sourced and also meant they were passivhaus certified! Pity how many sectors in the UK shoot themselves in the foot by atrocious service which is partly down to them not wanting to deal with end clients/self-builders. There was a lot of email ping-pong, but I think that would have been the case with UK windows too, but they were at least keen to do business which didn't seem to be the case with many of the UK ones. The only area I was hesitant about was measuring the window openings which was further complicated by the fact that I was using special EWI brackets which would position the windows outside of the window opening itself. So I had to take into account the bracket measurements in addition to the window openings. I must have measured each opening at least 15 times before submitting my final order. Glad to say everything seems to fit (just 3 doors to fit now). Unloading some of the units was a bit precarious especially the 800kg 4.6x 2.3m slider using a standard forklift and then travelling 200m down the road! I got a local window company to help me fit the windows and of course they had no clue how to fit them with the EWI brackets. It took a while for them to admit that the client knew best in this case as he'd actually read the bloody instructions. Means I'll have to rectify their first window later on. External view: Next stage on the exterior, is to EWI all walls with circa 100mm insulation. Note the brackets above (this is the first window and the bottom bracket aren't fitted correctly, so will need to be fixed before EWI). The brackets will cause minimal thermal bridging at least and certainly be better than having a timber frame constructed all round the window frame. The external aluminium cills (sourced from Germany, cheaper and thicker than UK suppliers) will fix onto that bottom mini (grey) cill at the bottom. EWI will tuck in under frame (well all sides of frame of course): and will marry up with the insulation I plan to add under the internal cill also: My next job is to get started with the internal plastering, so I'm looking at how to detail the internal reveals and cills. My plan is to insulate under the cill also. Cavity wall will most likely be filled with PIR where I can force it down or EPS beads (with a bit of PVA). I'll then fix 60mm PIR board to the now insulated cavity wall using PU adhesive. I'll have to channel out a bit of the PIR to accommodate the window brackets so the board sits flat: I should have enough clearance then to fit a wooden cill on top of the PIR. Not sure how best to affix that to PIR. Maybe the plasterboard reveals will sit on top of the cill and help pin it down. Probably overkill with the EWI, but my intention was to also insulate the reveals (see grey EPS example above) with 20-25mm PIR board and then plasterboard over the top. Just need to leave sufficient space to get at the internal beading in case the glass ever needs replacing (sons and footballs....). The other consideration is to decide where to stick the air tightness tape. Initial thought was to stick that on face of window frame and onto brickwork before I stick down the PIR board. But how well does the stuff stick to clean brickwork? I could add a further layer of tape from window frame and stick to top of PIR board before the final cill goes down. I'll try and post some drawings up here later on. Not great, but some of the intended detail:

We have recently purchased a 1bed ground floor flat located in a terrace and are looking to remove the existing (poor quality) rear extension and erect a new 6m long full width extension in its place. As you will see from image 3 (attached) we are hoping to create a new bedroom within the new space. This bedroom would be entirely internalised as it falls within the building line of the upper floors (shown in blue on image 2). We would like to ensure that light does get to this room and are looking whether the solutions would be to insert clerestory windows within the building line (roughly sketched out in image 1 - attached). I have a couple of queries regarding this solution: 1) Is it acceptable in planning and building regs terms that the only windows serving this new habitable room are (likely unopenable) high level clerestory windows which would not provide an escape route in case of fire, or manual ventilation. 2) The property is south facing and receives great sunlight all year round. What are the chances that the Council (Wandsworth) would object to these types of windows on daylight/sunlight grounds 3) Structurally, are clerestory windows going to work in this instance when the majority of the existing wall will likely remain in place. This is our first home (and project) and any help this community can offer would be greatly appreciated by us.

Is there a way to verify or get some reassurance about U-Values quoted by suppliers? Thanks Andy

Hi folks looking to replace dreadful 1970s aluminium windows in our victorian house, we are looking at putting upvc sash windows back in to try to bring the house back the way it should look,we have seen rose windows version all three price ranges, but want to know has anyone one out there had any dealings with these windows or had any problems with them?.we have also found on line Rehau window which look OK but haven't seen any in the flesh as yet to compare to rose windows, anyone got any good information regarding which of the a bove is proberly best to go for? We know it's not going to be cheap ?as the bay is nearly 6ft. Don't worry the doors going too. ? Regards jason.

Hi all, New member here! I was wondering if anyone could please offer some advice for some potential solutions: we are having issues with rain water coming down onto the wooden windows, sills and the door and rotting the wood. Could anyone suggest what could be done about this? I think guttering around the roof would be a solution, I don't really want to add a canopy to the door as I don't think this would look great. Please see the images attached! Thanks

Hi - I recently came across this platform and was interested to read some of the content. I have been involved in high performance building fabric solutions for over 30 years and have an inherent interest in low carbon building specifically off-site manufactured building systems together with low energy window and door solutions. I am looking forward to reading further contributions and hopefully providing some useful content. :-)

I'm close to picking a window supplier and hence spent the last few weeks looking at windows. We have aluclad and had planned standard grey 7016 on the outside as it seems contemporary and the safe bet. However part of me wants to buck this trend, its a bit boring and I don't want it to be just same same. I'm not looking for anything extreme like cool pink or anything...but something that will add interest, fit with the setting and stand the test of time. Anyone done anything different to grey? Any pics. House is rural Scotland, very large plot with a render finish and siberian larch cladding. Its meant to be white render but now I'm even thinking I want a different tone here too.....

Overall it went swimmingly well, couple of minor issues but soon resolved and need to return to sort out a handle issue but John Knight Glass were, IMO really great and for final sign off we wait for contact over next couple weeks when someone else comes to site to check everything with us so enough time to raise any snagging issues hopefully. Despite some panic on the canal bridge when the trailer was about 8 inches off the floor, everyone held their breath when the glass got over successfully. The other option being discussed was asking CRT who were dredging at the time to transport them to us. Although that didn't happen, I'd of been quite pleased to see that ? The windows we picked were the aluclad UPVV studio KF320 windows and KS430 sliding door and we are more than happy with them. A couple from work in progress. It was nice as the sun was setting getting some pictures of the house today, finally with the windows.

Any one having issues with Rationel door external ironmongery rusting ? these are under 4 years old ,Rationel won't replace saying ....

Hi there, I'm in the process of a wee project in our house. We are thinking of moving the kitchen into the dining area, removing a non-load bearing wall, dropping windows down to the ground. Getting a bit frazzled by it all....hoping for ideas, support and experience from members of this forum

Hello, I am going to retrofit MVHR in 1930s semi and this also goes hand in hand with getting new windows. The question is: are windows with airtightness class 3 sufficiently airtight to allow MVHR work efficiently or do I need to get windows class 4? Any experiences?

For a fixed window (external, non-opening), is there any reason in principle why one could not skip having a window frame altogether and mount a triple-glazed "sealed unit" directly in to the aperture created in an exterior timber wall, perhaps with only a minimal bracket for fixing purposes? It strikes me that frames are expensive, complicated, (sometimes greatly) reduce glazing area, and are designed mostly to enable windows to open. And frames also have comparatively poor U-values (even for Passivhaus windows) than the glass they contain. Problems I can imagine: Sealing and ensuring water runs off properly. Coping with differential heat expansion (bang goes the window on a hot day!). Access to swap the sealed unit if necessary. Undoubtedly, there must be something fundamental that I am missing. Please enlighten me.

Hi Folks, Going round the bend here trying to decide on what type of windows we want to install on our upcoming new build. We thought we were all set for timber windows however we have been suggested by our potential builder that using uPCV windows will save us a huge amount of money (approx 20k). Saving this amount is critical for us and may even mean we can actually start our build. However! As per usual its a constant battle between myself, contractor and architect. The architect is adamant that timber windows are a far better option given the superior thermal properties (which i don't dispute) of timber and also that the profile of timber windows will be much thinner than uPCV - something which I am not entirely convinced with - perhaps someone can clarify from experience? A big factor which is swaying me towards uPVC is we are located beside the coast and it concerns me even though we upkeep and maintain timber windows the salty air will eventually win the battle and turn them into a rotten mess - like a lot of other properties in the area. With our location in mind we did consider AluClad however we are reading conflicting information regarding the suitability of these on the coast in that the Aluminium will corrode if not treated properly - again adding to maintenance costs like timber windows. Has anyone got any experience on choosing a material for your windows in a coastal location? Any information on your decision and end result would be a huge help for us!