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About j_s

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  1. j_s

    Air test

    Agree with Dave, I found this a major issue with my 10 year old house. But as long as you have made sure your inner block is parged/sealed and sealed all joins above in the loft then dot and dab is fine. 3/4 of my 1st floor rooms are now fixed with 1 bedroom to go. It's crazy how a few small holes affect the house. I don't always find it blowing a gale outside affects the house, the air pressure makes more of a difference in terms of push/pulling the air in and out. The current builder I used got a score of less than 3 on 2 semi detached houses without even trying to seal it all up ( just his normal attention to detail) and it caused issues with building control and forced ventilation, I'm not actually sure how they got round that in the end
  2. A little update Taped the window to lintel but had trouble with the tape sticking to 1 section. Got the orcon adhesive out which solved it. I then used sikaflex on a different part of the lintel where the metal joins the inner and outer part to seal it up. I think it feels a lot better now but it has been warmer this weekend. Still more work to be done to this room but builder and joiner are in this week to overboard the ceiling and redo part of one of the stud walls with new sound insulation, 40mm conduit for aerial, satellite and cat 5 cables , 12mm ply and then plasterboard. Original ceiling will be sealed to ply with blowerproof, then overboard, any gap then foamed. I also tape above in the loft over the stud wall top plate. The new insulation in other areas of the loft is already cooling the loft right down so very much paying attention to finding any tiny holes, cracks etc as I don't want any condensation up there! The roof is vented on all 4 sides as well as having breathable roof felt but obviously on much colder days and still days there is still a danger.
  3. Ok cheers, will measure the lowest point to make sure the 27mm board will fit
  4. Thanks guys Onoff, which product did you use for the 27mm board?
  5. Ok thanks declan, do you think using the Soudal low expanding flexible foam would suffice or a foam more designed for fixing boards like Dow insta stik
  6. I ended up drilling a hole or 2 and firing some foam in. Still not taped yet but will do that tonight. I'd like to add about 12mm of pir board to the lintel (only got about 30mm to play with including plasterboard and skim). I have 25mm celotex already so will potentially rip that down to 12. Any advice as to attaching the pir to the lintel. My worry is the pir will be a bit crumbly and something like sticks like **** or CT1 or sikaflex won't hold too well to the pir board. Any ideas guys? Thanks
  7. Hi guys Got an issue with one lintel that is currently accessible in a bedroom I am renovating as part of sorting the whole house. This cold windy weather has allowed me to feel draughts coming from all the little gaps that I assume are for the plasterboard adhesive etc to stick to. I've tried to foam them but they are too small. I do have Jeremy's little home made foam gun attachment but I think I need to get a lot more foam up in there. The lintels are insulated and I will be taping the lintel to the window after I sort out the foam. Can/should I drill some larger holes so I can really get some foam in there. It's really cooling the room down as no radiator or insulation above the ceiling yet due to overboarding needing to be done and I want to make sure holes are taped if any are made into the loft space by accident and the insulation will get in the way. Thanks James
  8. j_s

    Expanding foam gun

    I got one from Screwfix that has the bendy attachment. Attachment is long gone. The gun itself is great, still going strong after over a year. As nod said, leave can on the gun, if not in use for a while then spray a bit of foam every week or two just to make sure it's not seized up inside. Clean end with wonder wipes every few mins minimum, if stubborn then get acetone or gun cleaner and spray on to wonder wipe and clean gun end with the wipe. I find the wipes to be strong and course to clean the gun quite well. I use the flexible low expanding foam (blue) from Soudal. I use an old serated small kitchen knife to trim the foam.
  9. As you know Mike I am doing similar. I've gone for blowerproof on all floor to wall joins, wall to ceiling, wall to wall, all blockwork mortar so very little left of the blockwork is visible. All back box interiors are taped, encased in plasterboard adhesive. Plasterboard adhesive on all board perimeters. Upstairs ceilings are all double boarded, first original ceiling is sealed to wall with blowerproof first ,before hand gaps filled with flexible expanding foam and tescon tape above it in the loft. All cable penetrations, foamed if existing and sealed from below if accessible. New cables are put in conduit and using Stoppas to seal them, these are good but don't hold up to well when moving cables for new lights from below and need refitting (get pushed off of the conduit) which is a pain when it comes to the insulation in the loft. It's been going on since April last year and still got 5 rooms to sort and not managed to switch on the mvhr yet as too worried as not all the ducting is covered in insulation (this week hopefully it will be sufficiently covered) Don't forget to make sure insulated cavity closers are used on door and window openings, not just fitted but sealed with no air leaks whatsoever. We fitted or i should say the builder with a bit of my help fitted them using expanding foam + CT1 or sticks like **** adhesive. Made a difference around our windows that's for sure. Make sure no holes are in the lintels too. For me it's been a massive learning experience and I wish I was less caring and just turn up the heat as the cost has been huge but we like where we live and plan to be here a while.
  10. j_s

    Aluminium windows

    I have aluminium windows. Express bifold (based on smart systems) fitted (not very well) about three quarters of our windows. These are all double glazed 4-20-4 with planitherm 1.0 glass. Frames get cold to the touch and will get condensation if you have too much water vapour in the house. The rest of the windows are Warmcore (made by synseal). Triple glazed 4-18-4-18-4, and a better thermal break. Cool to the touch still but less so than the express bifolds. I would say the Warmcore are a bit rough around the edges when you look at the profiles but a reasonable window. Still pricey though for what they are
  11. j_s

    Front Door Inspiration

    Do you have a budget in mind? If money is not an issue have a look at RK Doors. We have one and really like it. Loads of designs but very pricey
  12. Next couple of weeks are me filling all of those holes and back in the loft to do more insulating , large 100m squared loft to do I can't remember the exact issues but the fact they crack just be looking at them and issues with parge coat not sticking so well due to the celcon and thermalite sucking all the water out in no time at all. He's fine using a different block , just not the ultra lightweight ones.
  13. We will dot and dab but full perimeter + breaking up the plasterboard into smaller zones as it were. Builder has had far too many issues with lightweight blocks and parge coats and wet plaster before. He is meticulous, his internal blockwork jointing is better than most brickies external brickwork. I can't doubt his experience. I've not gone full blowerproof as they have changed their advice with regards to plastering over it, it now requires a grit finish to be painted over apparently and I was worried about the plasterboard adhesive on it.
  14. Sorry for the long title and wasn't sure which section to put this in. I've been doing a lot of work over the last year to improve this sieve of a house, taking rooms back to block work and filling any mortar gaps - some you could fit your hand through. I then paint blowerproof over all cracks and mortar joints and all repaired sections. So far it's been 3 rooms but those were in the summer. With the cold weather recently the house has rapidly cooled again to around 16-17 but you felt really cold with it. Fast forward to yesterday and we began work on the dining room and big spare bedroom. Big spare bedroom has 2 external walls and so does the dining room. Both have north east facing walls and the bedroom has another east facing one. Dining room is completely plasterboard free now including ceiling as we need to sort out the levels to straighten up the ceiling. The transformation last night and this morning is amazing, it's like a new house. No more chilly draughts now, house retaining its heat much better, hall way dropped by 0.5c rather than 1.5 to 2c. Out bedroom remained the same over night. This is without any heating on whatsoever. Now I know it's not that cold yet, but I can see the wind was blowing a little this morning and it was about 7c outside, normally this would result in it feeling much cooler. I am assuming the plasterboard was allowing the air to move in a different way and air pressure plays a part in how the air push/pulls? Check out examples of the holes we have uncovered: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UCXWTaJN8KRuxQ518 Yes if you zoom in you will see the cavity insulation, there are at least 20 odd visible gaps in the dining room alone that are not quite as bad but not great. Let alone thin cracks. Plasterboard does indeed hide a lot of sins, I am aware of the term plasterboard tent, I think I have something worse. There is an even bigger hole between floors that I picked up on my IR camera last year and can now see from the bedroom, I'd like to get a photo but as said between floors right now and won't be uncovered for a couple of weeks. House is 10 years old by the way, celcon and thermalite lightweight blocks with 7.5-8cm insulated cavity and brick outer. I thought I would show what I am dealing with. Edit: plasterboard was dot and dab with no perimeter adhesive on all sides of boards or adding it in such a way to reduce any possible air flow behind the boards
  15. j_s

    Threaded backbox

    Will do, after the family have visited and I can properly work on it next week with the re-rethreading and larger screws.