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About j_s

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  1. We cut them so when the ceiling was plastered it was flush with the plenum. Valves are tight on the plenum so it seems ok how we've done it
  2. Little update, mist coats went on 2 weeks ago. All dried nicely
  3. j_s

    Tiling...many questions

    We grouted and tiled a little bit of our utility room ourselves, had never done either ever before. Tiles were pretty ok ( not perfect) but the grout was spot on. No issues 6 years later, looks exactly the same. We just mixed it up and did it without putting too much thought into it
  4. Agree, but had hoped if the air rate was low enough it wouldn't cause issues with the plaster
  5. Hi Mike that was my worry but what I've read elsewhere is that as it's room temp anyway it won't cause the issues a dehumidifier or big heaters would. All it will serve is to push the excess moisture in the room to an extract point. I could just turn the mvhr to low mode after the plastering is done so it's as gentle as possible. I'll switch it off when it's being done and then add the protective covers and then give it a day or 2 max Thanks all
  6. I've finally sorted out my loft insulation and switched on my mvhr today, still to balance etc but it's been a long journey so will look at that another day. We have the plasterer in to do 2 rooms a week tomorrow, one a bedroom, the other the dining room. Can/should I leave the mvhr on during and after the plastering. I have read but not found the forum post (old site, gbf or here) that it will help to dry it out quicker and help with the excessive moisture especially now it's winter. Thanks all
  7. Yep will do. It might be hard to wrap the cables individually first , will see what I can do. Do you think once sealed and the conduit is buried I should hopefully be ok?
  8. Sorry I should have actually asked the direct question. I suppose the question is, can I seal from the loft side as per Jeremy's reply or could that still cause issues even if conduit is buried within the loft insulation, or alternative is how to stop the warm moist air getting there in the first place. I'm not so sure I can stop it from getting there now. Jeremy , you say self amalgamating tape, could you please give me an example? I use and have pro clima tescon, could I use that? Edit, I understand what tape you mean now Jeremy. There is a cheap one at Screwfix (£2.50 made by Diall) or everbuild do a silicon based tape which is £11 Any advice as to which to go for? Many thanks James
  9. Hi guys, I've got some 40mm conduit that carries aerial and cat 5 cables from one bedroom (office) up to loft and then the cat5 continues down into another bedroom stud wall and down to the lounge via another 40mm conduit. Conduit does not connect between the 2 points. I use pro clima stoppas to seal end of conduit and the cables go through the stoppas and it's meant to seal it. Issue I have as the stoppa on the office end in the loft isn't sealing around the cables very well and warm moist air is coming up the conduit and then some condensation is forming near the end of the conduit. I've put some expanding foam in the conduit ( allowing a gap for the stoppa still) last night but it's not completely sealing it still. If I tape up the end will this stop the condensation as long as it's buried under at least 200mm of dense wool (I'm using dri therm 32). I can't get to the other end of the conduit now as it's within a just recently redone stud wall but I am taping up and foaming any gaps in the sockets and will seal the stud wall under it too with tape and whatever I can find. The bottom of the stud wall is open for the mvhr ducting to get down to the lounge and dining room so I'll have to find something to seal that as it is a large air path to the open end of the 40mm conduit Thanks James
  10. A further update. Not as great as previously thought. A lot more to do since the colder weather is here. Major issue last night! 40mm conduit from lounge to loft and office to loft full of condensation where it hits the cold space. I hadn't sealed the lounge conduit with the pro clima stoppas, and I had removed the stoppa from the office one ready to drop some cat5. The warm moist air of the house therefore drawn up the conduit to the vented loft space. Lesson learned , oops. Have also insulated the top of the conduit for now so will check tonight and through the week to make sure there isn't any more condensation
  11. Battens would give more control to make sure everything is sealed behind before the plasterboard goes on and gives you the service void you want as well as less risk (not 0) to insulation when it comes to picture hooks and other fixings to the plasterboard. You could even do the insulating your self then and make sure it's all done correctly
  12. j_s

    Air test

    Agree with Dave, I found this a major issue with my 10 year old house. But as long as you have made sure your inner block is parged/sealed and sealed all joins above in the loft then dot and dab is fine. 3/4 of my 1st floor rooms are now fixed with 1 bedroom to go. It's crazy how a few small holes affect the house. I don't always find it blowing a gale outside affects the house, the air pressure makes more of a difference in terms of push/pulling the air in and out. The current builder I used got a score of less than 3 on 2 semi detached houses without even trying to seal it all up ( just his normal attention to detail) and it caused issues with building control and forced ventilation, I'm not actually sure how they got round that in the end
  13. A little update Taped the window to lintel but had trouble with the tape sticking to 1 section. Got the orcon adhesive out which solved it. I then used sikaflex on a different part of the lintel where the metal joins the inner and outer part to seal it up. I think it feels a lot better now but it has been warmer this weekend. Still more work to be done to this room but builder and joiner are in this week to overboard the ceiling and redo part of one of the stud walls with new sound insulation, 40mm conduit for aerial, satellite and cat 5 cables , 12mm ply and then plasterboard. Original ceiling will be sealed to ply with blowerproof, then overboard, any gap then foamed. I also tape above in the loft over the stud wall top plate. The new insulation in other areas of the loft is already cooling the loft right down so very much paying attention to finding any tiny holes, cracks etc as I don't want any condensation up there! The roof is vented on all 4 sides as well as having breathable roof felt but obviously on much colder days and still days there is still a danger.
  14. Ok cheers, will measure the lowest point to make sure the 27mm board will fit