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About j_s

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  1. I'm about to sort my Comms cupboard out very soon. Will be using a poe switch and then running a few ubiquiti WiFi units. Question is, do I go for a patch panel or just terminate the cat5 with rj45 connectors and plug them straight into the switch? Space is not great so if I can get away with it is like to leave the patch panel
  2. Thanks for the update. I have some thanks but it has caused more issues due to excessive moss on the roof and can bung up the tops of downpipes etc. I know it's job is to stop debris dropping in to gutters but it doesn't completely. I have a very high roof so it's not something I want to have to keep going up there for to check constantly. I might try and add some spare lead pieces to the bottom of the downpipes for extra mass for when the water falls/drips
  3. Lizzie, did you rectify this in the end? Ive got sound deadening sheets left over from a pack I bought for our large stainless steel sink. Ive also picked up some rubber washers and plastic washers that might help the echoing around our cavity when it's raining. Unfortunately, I don't think I can stop the water flowing sound in the gutters, the fun of thin aluminium! Does anyone know if the sound deadening will likely peel off eventually due to weathering or it will stay on long enough to make it worthwhile and a small maintenance upkeep only? Thanks James
  4. Yes you will get air ingress through the conduit. I used 25mm conduit for various cables from bedrooms and lounge through loft and used rubber stoppas by pro clima both ends and I still had condensation build up at the top of the conduit in the loft so moist air from the house was still getting through. I ended up following advice on here from jsharris to use amalgamated tape
  5. We used matt endurance paint on the latest renovated rooms skirting (made out of tulip/poplar) Before the endurance we used a paint made by ecopaints (now called something else) and it has a sheen to it even though it's a matt paint, washable too. Dustier looking but I hate painting on anything else other than your typical wall/ceiling paint
  6. Keep it simple? Oak handrail and posts with glass infills ?
  7. https://www.engadget.com/2019/07/29/the-morning-after-sony-wearable-air-con/ How about personal cooling?
  8. As in which part of the room first?
  9. Had the electrician , builder and carpet fitter in today, all miserable from the heat. I spared the electrician from having to go in the loft to run a new cable from mvhr to kitchen this afternoon, I did it instead and **** was it hot up there. Outside temp was 36 , just north of Nottingham. loft I have no idea bit I was suffering within seconds of going up there. 29.5 in north facing bedroom, no Idea in the south facing bedroom, builder had to drown the thermalite blocks when doing some repairs in this room. His current site he is having to wet even the fibolites to stop them from drawing too much water out of the mortar too quickly and doesn't normally have to do that. In the hall and lounge it's 26.5 but windows have been open all day , I tried to tell my very heavily pregnant other half ( 2 weeks to go ) but I'm not going to argue with her.
  10. Qlon seals that can be fitted to timber doors? I think you cut a channel in to the door for the seal to attach to the door. The seal has a foam inner and waterproof outer. The foam then compresses to the shape of the gap. You can get various thicknesses.
  11. I thought it was to do with radon/gas most of the time. It is the reason building control stated for our extension where we were blocking up 2 vents for our block/beam floor on the main house and had to route a deeper duct under our solid extension floor to join the original vents. Luckily we could go down quite deep so it didn't cause issues with the extension slab.
  12. We ended up using a multitool with a brick cutter blade to grind away the cill from the inside and now the window doesn't sit on the cill any longer. I have now foamed the gaps and we will be adding the cavity closers in the next week and then I'll foam any further gaps and then tape.
  13. Hi guys, taken out all plasterboard of the final room in my house and found that although some plastic Packers are used they are 1mm thick and only packed on the edges of the frame. The stone sill is reconstituted and there are 2 of them butted to each other. Towards the middle they probably rise very slightly and now the inside of the window frame is touching the sill and a very serious cold bridge. No wonder when I had no mvhr there was so much condensation in the centre of the window at the bottom! 3 potential ways to solve 1. New window and sized better, can get new cavity closers in easily if so and foam the gap along with tape to seal completely. 2. Refit the window but not sure if I can move it up much at all. 3. Grind a few mm away on the inside of the sill under the window very carefully with a brick blade on the multitool ,can then get cavity closer in and foam and tape, risky though. Window is 2.3m wide by 1.2m high, aluminium so gets very cold in the winter due to the cold bridge Any thoughts guys? Thanks James
  14. Hi guys Any advice for a lounge that will have home cinema equipment in it. All back to block work. Will be running speaker cable up and over ceiling. Recommended speaker face plates? Should I use sound block plasterboard on ceiling and internal walls (baby on the way and he's due in August). Due to original idiot house builders, joists aren't level enough so will already be losing ceiling height so I can't double up plasterboard. Thanks James
  15. We cut them so when the ceiling was plastered it was flush with the plenum. Valves are tight on the plenum so it seems ok how we've done it