Garald

What about this? https://www.natureliege.fr/fixer-coller-les-rouleaux-de-liege-aux-murs-et-sols/562-quelyd-colle-speciale-liege-bostik.html#/conditionnement-pot_de_1kg_unite

That was my doubt - I saw it described as being used for outside insulation. Are there no problems with fumes and the like?

All right. What about gluing cork to the top part? Will I need to hold it for long before the glue acts? I haven't mastered antigravity.

How harnful is CT1? Is it enough to air it well?

Sound absorption. Well, the cork stuck on the sides of the external frame should also help with (sound-insulation) weak points in the frame without coupling it much (I think), but those cork strips haven't fallen out.

The cork I glued to the sides of the space between my windows mostly fell of while I was away. What is the best glue for attaching cork to brick and other masonry? Or is gluing the wrong approach?

Two options: - Get a two-zone ASHP, with the granny annexe being one zone, - Get an ASHP - and put a small electric radiator in the room (the least powerful you can find) for those times times when she wants an extra couple of degrees, fast. For all that I know, a towel-warmer may do.

As some of you know, I was a little unhappy with my library windows - yes, they were rated at 40-45dB (with 40dB being a more realistic measurement of sound reduction for typical street noise) but these are first-floor 2mx2m windows overlooking a sometimes busy two-way street. So, I had a second set of windows installed at about 15cm from the existing windows - single-pane heavy safety glass (high-transparency of course). They are rated at 36-38dB, though again the frame takes some off that. I had calculated the resonance frequency of the resulting system would be 340/(2*pi))*sqrt((1.22/0.15)*(1/45+1/35)) = about 32.5Hz. The result was good but not extraordinary: I knew I'd always be able to hear a bass rumble, but I could still hear passing motorcycles. The problem did not seem to be coupling (both window-frames are attached to the masonry by tick-tacky) but rather (I conjectured) the edges of the frame. So, I stuck some cork in it, and also applied some weatherstripping. Then I added more cork to the sides (2cm thickness), for absorption, making sure the cork planks would not or would barely touch (to avoid introducing coupling). I'm pretty happy now. It's not perfect, but one can now hear motorcycles more clearly from the *other* side of the house (which faces a courtyard). And now I've got my own mini-greenhouse! The basil plant is happy. We shall see how the bougainvilleas do. Things I can still do: - cover the bottom with cork (but then I would need to waterproof it, since I'm putting plants there; what is good for waterproofing cork?) - put nicer-looking 1cm cork on top, leaving less or no spacing (you can see this in one of the pictures), - weatherstrip the sides and bottoms (easy, but after the first two steps) Do any of the measures here strike you as pointless or counterproductive? For instance - am I introducing coupling after all?

I can now, in an incomplete and unreliable way, but not for the period before I signed up for that service!

Semi-smart maybe? I'm paying a bit extra for it to be as smart as possible (after the January surprise) - for the period before that, daily data seems accessible for some days and not others.

Most of a small house: 120m^2 loi Carrez (i.e. not counting most of the attic, staircases, bike garage), 180m^2 total. Just got a pretty good interior insulation done (went ftom energy class F to energy class B, by French standards) with 15cm BioFib Trio on some walls and a combination of 5cm BioFib Trio with reflective insulation (with synthetic conventional-insulation backing) on the others. Elsewhere on this site, you can find the pictures I took with a thermal camera. The heat pump was installed a year ago, begore I moved in. No other electric heating. No electric car. No rooftop snow. This is Paris-area weather, i.e., southern English weather except that the six-month autumn is slightly less miserable and the summer can include a couple of weeks of serious heat wave. Sure, and also that I made the mistake of setting the operating temperature at 45C rather than let the heat-pump choose. (I wanted to test that 45C would be rnough; of course it was.) The problem is really the difference between total energy consumption and heat-pump consumption in January. I had the wifi controller installed in the heat pump a couple of weeks ago, so I don't have day-by-day heat-pump statistics before then. The January data from the energy provided is marked as provisional and estimated, and does *not* add up to 1783 (which is *not* marked as provisional). I wonder whether the energy company thought I would use as much energy as last year in January (workmen with tools and electric heaters in a construction site) and will send me a fat refund check in a while? One can always hope... March is shaping up to be slightly over 500kWh in total. Still a tad more than one might wish for, but nothing suspicious.

My consumption in August and September was 233kWh and 216kWh. No doubt one can do better, but that's my baseline. (Or rather, my baseline is at most that: my parents were visiting.)

Sure - that was yesterday. I'm on a conference trip, returning tonight.

The problem is not so much the excess right now (2.5kWh to 5 kWh is not a huge lot for someone with an old, malfunctioning fridge (will replace), as well as a VMC fan I didn't ask for that is always on and that I'm thinking of having uninstalled) as the fact that the excess is much larger when heat-pump consumption is really high. I don't have day-by-day resolution for the most striking period (I had wifi installed on the heat-pump just a couple of weeks ago) but here is some monthly data. Heat pump (according to itself): energy consumed energy produced December 583 kWh 2122 kWh January 883 kWh 2698 kWh Yes, the settings were suboptimal (45C fixed temperature) and the COP improved in February, after I let the heat-pump choose its own temperature (of course temperatures also became milder). That's not the point, however. The point: (data from the energy company) total energy consumed December 709kWh January 1783kWh February 871hWh You can see the issue: non-heat-pump consumption was reasonable in December (709-583 = 126 kWh, i.e., about 4kWh per day) but non-heat-pump consumption was absolutely nasty (and very expensive to me): 1783-883 = 900 kWh, i.e., about 30kWh per day. So, in January, either (a) the heat-pump was lying and lies about its energy consumption, (b) some problem in the electrical installation leads to some sort of huge energy sink at times, perhaps especially when the heat-pump is particularly hungry (c) the malfunctioning fridge is guilty (but what kind of fridge, even an old, large fridge, could ever use that much energy? Is that even the right order of magnitude? What is more, I defrosted it at the end of November, not in January) (d) the clowns from the electricity-delivery monopoly who came in early January to change the maximal voltage from 6kW to 12kW messed something up temporarily that caused a huge January energy bill (no idea what that would have been) (e) some other possibility? My January bill was 516 eur; that's not funny.

It is coming on (I notice: the shower is pleasantly hot on those days), once every two weeks. No, I have set up DHW to go on auto, not on direct heat all the time. What makes you say otherwise?