Oz07

Leave them to do it in their own time. Surely you're not going to blow the dough each month because they aren't asking for it?!

Are we talking airated or lightweight conc?

I think op is specifically talking high performance frames where vapour barriers and condensation points etc etc

How long have you been following the forum? Did you get any prices for insulated raft?

Depending on what local authority I don't know of CIL will apply. I'm in Leicestershire and upto 2years ago we were still paying open space s106. My most recent planning had no CIL or 106. We must be a deprived county!

Yeh it won't be the norm as you say. But everyman and his dog are after a plot atm

I know a mate who bought in around 2011. Site had decent planning history. Bought for less than 10% gdv. Made a decent sum tax bill was 6 figures

* at this stage in the cycle. Time will come again when nobody has the appetite

Appreciated nod what are u paying for the membrane? I prices it up the osb is near on 3 quid a m2. By the time you buy membrane and tape was coming out more expensive and I think fiddly/harder to Do. Like I say not trying to achieve and super performance just enough to make the mvhr worthwhile

He's saying why use osb. I'm thinking if it's good enough for @joe90 it's good enough for me I'm not trying to beat the world

Do we think my 2x2 would better bedded on fm330? Supposed to be elastic just didn't know if it needed a certain thickness to work

Worked for @joe90 good enough for me

Cheers I'll copy you entirely then with the sealant choice!

I'm stealing @joe90 's method of making the roof airtight except doing it at ceiling level. Going to do whole ceiling with OSB then counter batten with some 2x2 for services All around perimeter where ceiling meets blockwork I will fix 2x2 with 10mm gap as OSB then fill with some foam i've already bought. Supposed to be airtight and elastic - https://www.illbruck.com/en_GB/product/fm330-pro-foam-air-seal/ On all the long joints of the boards i'll be gluing and screwing 2x2 through to the rafters. Short joints also laminated with offcut strips of the OSB. What is best to glue this? Obviously the timber and OSB aren't going to meet perfectly. I could use expanding D4 glue - but is this elastic? Will the seal eventually break? I could use some kind of silicone or sealant if better? What would be recommended? I did think about foam (i've heard people use it to stick skirting) but doesn't it need to have a minimum thickness to be elastic? Cheers

Is this emetti @Triassic? They seem to be the main one

If say you get about 87.5 kg in a drum of dry materials. Just basing a 6:1 mix filling the drum. So around 8/9/10 for .4m3 based on weight Yes I would assume 130l is horizontal complete volume

I've seen worktop fitters butcher the back of units once or twice. Good choice

How come these charges seem to be applied differently by different authorities? In what other industry does the government get to effectively use a windfall tax? Serious question they might exist. Because house prices are high everyone wants a piece of the cake

No he does that for free @AnonymousBosch but the gap at top of hinge to hang coat off is extra!

Would think setting the depth will be a nightmare

Not sure this is the right tool for the job. Deffo don't think it would be one of the jobs I'd be thinking I'll buy a nail gun for that

I must be slow as f,,,k and I've been making a living at it! I wouldn't aim for any more than 4-5 oak doors in a day inc furniture or around 8 just swinging. I think 8 per day inc furniture and they could be a bit rough @nod Probably agree on the liners. Maybe a touch longer. I'd make em all up first, stop have a morning cuppa, then start fitting. In answer to op question maybe 8 liners fitted and all your window boards cut ready to fix inc ends routered if out of sheet material

Latest place has a 25mm PIR upstand all around perimeter of slab finishing flush at FFL. I think the slab is specced at around .15 U value so you know what i'm working with. At the minute my french doors are set to sit ontop of DPC brickwork with around 50mm sticking up. 30mm cill blues 20mm ally threshold. Door frame set back 30mm into cavity so effectively bridging this PIR at floor level. I am considering ripping out 1 course of brickwork below french doors and having them made 75mm higher. I can then use a 30mm cill and bigger section (70mm ish) PVC bottom rail. I think using the PVC bottom rail gives better performance as not relying on the draught seal under the doors, it's against the face as the rebate is all around. Only snag is I will be ripping out the 25mm PIR behind the door to achieve the setback. The edge of the slab will be upto the PVC cill. In practice would this scenario be any worse than the pvc cill bridging over the PIR as per original way? I suspect not but looking for advice. Don't need any calls done just your opinions please. Obviously I prefer option 2 because it gives be that better draught seal performance and a lower profile cill as it is effectively set 75mm down. Cheers

Had a quote, didn't use them. Sorry couldn't help more!

are the internal load bearing walls then built off these then sandwiching insulation? Does it eliminate the cold bridge?