Oz07

I've just spent an hour in your blog @tonyshouse have looked at it before but still interesting now. I feel like it used to have more pictures? Amazing how time flies I like the way you can't remember if you used the leg kit for the bath or not was only 2009 ha! Also found the comment about basement floor and bit of damp do I win a prize?!

Shallower than 90 I should of said

The medium of internet forums it's hard to get your message across sometimes! I should hope I know what I'm talking about been doing it long enough now! These days pre primed mdf gives a good contrast so you can see the shape to be cut out! Pro tip. If internal corners shallower than 45 you can then cut your scribe with your saw taking more out the back edge. Same theory as above and the joint will be nice and tight on the face.

I still scribe internals but if you cut a 45 on one of them, the one you want scribing, this gives you the shape to cut out without bothering to trace with an offcut. Also as a 45 cut gives you the thickness of the board measuring is quicker/easier

External mitres I usually look at corner and set saw to around 46/47 deg if looks a sharp corner. A joint always better if open at back rather than front. I also glue externals with mitre bond before fixing to wall. With internals again just cut a 45 on the piece you want scoring then remove the end grain. Perfect scribe no profile tool needed

Oh hand saw!? Fair play bit think you'll struggle can't you borrow a chop saw

What's up is your saw good quality and sharp blade?

@joe90 why don't you move it with front bucket probably fit more in than that dumper!

Just using sone bdec barn paint this morning. 're coating some stuff that's 12months old but 9nly because it has got filthy and knocked. Garage side door. Also doing an old cast iron stench pipe. The coverage rate is pretty good

Nothing to worry about. Best stage to leave it tbf

As long as the heating system can be swapped to ashp in future it's a no brainer isn't it?

Why 3 separate coax @ProDave? I did coax and 1 cat6 in current place but don't know if cat 6 will ever get used. Check out @pocster devils corner thread

What will be your hot water source? My layman's experience is a good chunk of the delay on hot water is waiting for a combi to fire up. If you're on a tank this is cut down

I know what you're saying but how else do you keep everything on bends? That one basin could go into back of w/c drain connector, your w/c could also potentially boss into that Stacy removing 2 connections

Basins could go off 90deg branch into upper third of drain if easier.

If you bring it up on a rest bend with a y branch horizontally. You can put the farthest one on a 45 bend at bottom of rest bend and keep the drain in a straight line then

I've had pipe that is half the weight of other pipe and sent it back so be careful. Think you're ok with any main manufacturer but be careful of independents selling super cheap gear compare it to decent stuff

Finished pics today @LA3222

At least you got it done congrats

Exposed surfaces does this mean wires below a plasterboard ceiling as you often see in communal areas of flats from retrofit wiring bits and pieces etc?

I wouldn't imagine this applies in domestic ceiling void environments. Check with an up to date sparky by all means but it wouldn't be keeping me awake at night.

Mines still coming did ask me if I want to cancel as around 50% of her other clients have. I'm happy for her to come as long as she is.

I've never seen something like that shored is the soil crap round your way?

They come already primed all round. You lot actually paint them underneath also?!

I've since learnt they don't actually supply skirts in hdf it is just a higher density version of mdf. Try asking in a merchant the density of their mdf profiles look at you like you've got the corona. No I don't paint the bottoms does anyone?! The external mitres tend to blow at the bottom. Even when well glued and painted. Perhaps I've been a bit over enthusiastic with mop but I know others who've had same problem