Oz07

Did this on last one and was much nicer not having to step over the upvc cill then down

If you have a decent depth of cill and a proper rebated frane section on the bottom you can actually sit the door 1 course below ffl. Finishes about an inch above your ffl giving a much nicer transition to outside

I think not caulking the top edge would be pretty common if can't be seen from above. Is this gap really going to be any more likely a path for sound transmission than the gap at bottom of door?

I've always gone with GIA - no wonder @nod built his so cheap his walls are 4m wide! haha

No it will have to be an open trench. Could range from being reasonable to very expensive depending on road, traffic, depth of sewer etc etc. I would imagine to 330 is an application fee and you would have to pay more for inspections and approval of finished work. Usually water boards will want you to use an approved contractor but check that out. Find out the depth off the water board and start getting some quotes.

Are the blocks thicker than the bricks? Why does there look to be a 25mm step in one photo? If the cavity continues as per the photo with that step it will be a bit better as wider cavity

Who needs a land drain when you have unsealed ic inspection chambers!? Tongue in cheek

Logistically also how do you think this works on a normal job? Plasterer is trusted to drill holes? Electrician comes back between 1st and 2nd fix yet before skimming? Don't the holes get filled with skim?! Loads neater to just do a good plan and cut out on 2nd fix

Sorry just seen mvhr not the other bits. Still seems strong though but not my area expertise

2.5k you mean surely?

Can't have noticed it very well if you cut the board around it without moving!

What do you do go back while the boarders are boarding?!

How many u got @nod? ?

Who the hell cuts spotlights in first?! Crazy. If you ceiling is less than 2.4 do in full. That being said if was 1800 or less on 600 centres I'd be using the offcut.

I deserve a thanks off you for pointing it out before you had it skimmed...

Why does a riser need a seal? Some have them others are a tight fit. If you've got waste backing up to riser levels it's going to get cleared pdq so no risk of long term leak.

Won't you have a mare trying to fit that vent on the mvhr? It's right on the join between flat and vaulted.

I've worked with some very thorough eastern Europeans. Not shy of a long day either.

No they don't give a s**t generally, especially if site lads working on a price

This is why people use engineers to set out, They're all indemnified against these kind of cockups. Still a digger driver could dig wrong side of the line though.

I did the same with woven fabric, scuffed the plant up and sprayed. Think I may have even used a bit of fairy in the mix one year - probably you who suggested it! I don't know if its a gradual process less infested each year but after around 3 or 4 years spraying it I can't remember getting it the last year. That's not to say I didn't get other weeds though! Is this what you've found it reduces over time?

I had mares tail which is also waxy and roughed it up a bit with my boots before spraying.

What thickness is one of those finished wall products like fermacell is it? Seen some thin partitions in 90s cheap new builds prob like 75mm overall finished

@Crofter?

Like I say tiny gaps but still needs caulking