Oz07

I should know this being a chippy but every day is a school day. I've used the Green MDF sheets in bathrooms before knocking cupboards up but i'm not there 12months later to see if it was any good. Last house had MDF skirts which started to blow at the corners after my frequent mopping in kitchen. Went back to pine in current place knotted, primed, undercoated and top coated and hey presto still got knots and marks coming through. Is this HDF any better or am I just being sold the dream? most the online merchants seem to sell their skirting as HDF which they say is more resistant to moisture. I can get the skirting I want locally for around £1.40 in MDF, online in HDF I am looking at double the cost. Happy to pay if it really is worth it but would like to hear from anyone with experience first.

I had that problem with suppliers wanting to design a system with too many different zones. Your not going to get massive temp differences in a well insulated house

Btw I'm having one fitted in current place as just want to see how good this air quality benefit is

You can't really knock @DavidHughes the assessment looks pretty thorough. Think we just need to accept the argument that in most cases it will cost you more than it saves. As previously discussed it's what you get for that cost and of the benefits are worth it to you. Be an interesting thread for @Russell griffiths to follow!

Don't you have a decent timber merchants nearby? We have a few here that keep oak on shelf with rip saw and thicknesser in

Skirting block

I've read cement only has a use by date for the properties of safety and cement burns...could of been fake news

I think your supposed to step it so it keys but perhaps the rebar negates this. Just go with what SE says. It won't be the first time it's been done in stages will be fine.

It was one which was talked about on here quite popular when they came out. Ok for a watered down mist coat but false economy really as I rubbed the lot with some 120 grit

Looks good. Mist coated mine with one of those aldi sprayers last week. Crap. Really need to bin it. I've sanded the whole lot with some fine paper. You going to hire a good sprayer?

Depending how long your run is an offcut of 22mm timber taped to a 6ft level is handy for short bits. Likewise I use 10mm packers on an 800mm level for even shorter bits. When the bubble says level the gradient is good

Is it worth suggesting the idea and sharing the increased cost?

You could pour in stages and do only what is possible in a day. Would be more expensive and a bit more complicated though. Who is responsible for the risk?

thanks again

Got this set up now ending in 3/4 male is this right?

Cheers so I'll end in 3/4 bspm if the guy on counter can translate. thanks

Look to be same as mine then? Is the male end on these sized for softener or so I drop it down?

How long piece of string suppose depends on complexity and spec. I found cheaper to go with non passiv house rated unit

This is what I got but as @tommyt sa6s really I need 3 taps. Do i just get 2 more of what I got or is there anything less bulky? Cheers

Good thinking batman

The Scots do seem a lot more thorough with their regs

I think thats what i've got on 22mm mains. Why do I need 3 lever taps? If I have 1 tap and capped ends on the male irons when softener not connected isn't this the same?

Ok I got one lever tap and 2no. 3/4 threaded connections. Not sure it's right i'll post a pic tomorrow. Should I of gone for 2no. washing machine taps to the water softener?

To see a blockage before have set phone to video with flash then held it down near invert. You might see the connection 4ft away or something like that

As above its futher downstream then. Dig downstream of the IC