Oz07

How are you all finishing these warm deck roofs at the edges. I did one recently that was getting on for 400mm thick all in. Cut the ends of the joists so they tapered to 100mm at the end on the eaves as per drawing but still leaves a thick fascia. I see some builders finishing the warm roof at wall insulation point, with a step down to a standard cold flat roof for overhang. Not sure how this effects condensation.

Yes. I'd move it below the slab

Gas the easiest to deal with Leccy ok Water the worst.

Not a bad shout @Gus Potter keeping it simple and doing away with fixings and metalwork. Could make it work to course height

Just use a board way easier.

Re speed skim. Plasterers I know love it for flattening off. @nod?

Prep even more crucial on solid concrete imprinted driveways. Concrete doesn't flex!

I got a ccj against a 1 director Ltd company recently. I hope it's knackering up his personal insurances too.

Most small whackers should be like 100mm layers max at a time with 4 passes in each direction.

I think the issues are more to do with the type of "tradesmen", usually caravan enthusiasts, which offer their services in this area. You will find exactly the same issues with tarmac if you look at sone drives. As above, all in the prep.

Some temporary 4 inch nails down into the perps or blocks if soft enough help to stop it from moving while framing the roof. Then straps as above.

Are you handy? The donkey work is pretty simple DIY

What grips the compo?

Used them on this job for someone as log cabin base. Can be hard to knock the spikes in to the hard-core but if one or two break off not the end of the world as they all interlock anyway.

What did you pay out of interest? Small bits of kit like these are normally a great earner for the companies % wise. Wouldn't go back to hand nailing would you...

Plaster stains oak doesn't it? Fit afterwards if poss as above

72 or 36 hours the longest retarder. It is easy to plan if the weather plays ball. Mix consistency, colour and strength all spot on.

I couldn't get for this place but is definatley the way forward. Think there's a bit more wastage and bit of waiting time but if you have a dumpy of sand and few cement on site for blockwork to avoid dead starts.

This thread screams nimby to me. Fair play for getting people here on side when a lot of them will have had struggles with their own nimbys.

Do you get away without external lintels on wet cast heads?

Amstrad durable matt gets rave reviews. I've used that in hall and dulux diamond in kitchen. Diamond is better but not matt

If you have dpc tray I'd prefer insulation as you go, ie batts built in.

Not cheap that business is it. Glad I shelled for the extra cost of some 32mm mdpe here

No minimum. I've had 750mm before now. Architect puts sone mot on drawing about non flammable construction job done

I undercut all around and foam in with inbetween fitting. Easier and better job IMO. I use foil tape if I have to do pir over top of joists/rafters. In my layman brain it completes the foil vapour barrier.