Oz07

Ive never covered a slab with polythene before but am open to ideas. Does it give a much better end product?

How can it be better with all the technology nowadays. Have they engineered the materials to minimum acceptable spec?

How do they fit just squash in around the edges? I was also recommended these https://www.i-sells.co.uk/mob/prod_detail.php?cPath=1599_178&products_id=51229&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxriIsYSI_gIVGO3tCh2V3QxSEAQYASABEgLSnfD_BwE I think your link is better 30 quid for 10 filters. I did think maybe i could just get some kind of filter medium behind the metal grill of the cooker hood but before the carbon filter. Has anyone modded their cooker hood in this way to trap more grease there?

I got a good one off amazon for 62 quid the other day. Its the tfa dostmann one which logs previous readings for 12 hrs. I think the list is around 80 quid I paid 62. Interesting to take round the house with you and see what the bedrooms say in the morning but you do become a bit of slave to it. Where did you get your mvhr unit for 500 that seems cheap

You're overthinking it. Everyone in the trade just calls them 90's I bet you get 5 deg or more of play in a fitting ...Sorry just re read been covered already

Yeh I have the same setup and wouldn't say we cook a lot of greasy food either. There's no problem with my unit but have you ever took the ceiling valve off and looked behind it in the kitchen? I cleaned ours yesterday and it was a bit greasy inside. I'd like to just have some kind of filter medium in there which stops it working it's way back into the duct work.

What does everyone use to stop grease getting into the kitchen extract ductwork? I have the following extract valves https://www.bpcventilation.com/125mm-airflow-pvc-extract-valve and its connected to a 125mm box in the ceiling with a double connection to the ductwork. Are there different valves you can get with grease filter built in? Or is it a case of bodging some grease filter inside the box and changing it every so often? Be interested to see others solutions I had a quick search online but nothing obvious came up.

Not sure but when I have a 30 min shower the last thing on my mind is energy or emissions. I could be brown bread tomorrow. I think a certain amount is good as you end up with a comfortable home. Likewise next time I build and whack aircon in I won't be bullied into feeling guilty by moody teenage girls

This forum will always be biased to low energy usage. There are a lot here that have invested considerable time and effort to make their houses as efficient as possible. Nothing wrong with that but whether it makes pure financial sense when it's so cheap to heat houses I'm not so sure. I can't see gas going anywhere any time soon in Leicestershire I would bet the majority of our housing stock is solid wall with terrible efficiency.

Labour prices gone up 3% on site I'm on atm. House prices up 13% y.o.y haha

I know this is nothing to do with the sunamp but the more I hear about these the less appealing they seem. Never seem to hear any good news about them

I had 1.19 and I thought it converted to around .6ach but I could be wrong. I think I googled some conversion? Your blower door man should of known it was a good figure he would of had to close up all the holes in his door bar one. The guy I used was about creaming his pants but he was used to doing bog standard newbuilds

7n only usually used on 3 storey. SE knows best but you can ask the question

scaffold boards and re sell when done

I thought building regs stipulated minimum 30mm overhang into cavity? If I understand you right and inside of your Windows flush with back of brickwork you need to push them in further.

Never done it but ringshanks sound best to me. Quicker and will close the gap. Sometimes screws don't pull both pieces tight if wrong screw or technique

I think they put antifreeze in them don't they?

Any you're diving straight back in. Fair play!

I just go for whatever recognised brand is doing the longest warranty. If you can get 10 year warranty I think you can then start to whittle down on price who cares about parts availability.

Last year city plumb were doing brilliant deals on glow worm, mag filter, flue and 10yr warranty. The independents couldn't touch them. Sure they are a re badged valliant anyway now? Plus buying British!

If it's just for the roof crane would be better bet as above.

I like to cut the doorway out after on my own stuff, not full board over though I don't mind having a joint on a nog in centre. All the newbuild sites seem to join in line with the frame urgh gash.

Never been through a third party what are you paying for? I have had a stand Pipe connection previously approved then converted it to a standard house connection.

Maybe there's a difference when using full fill batts/wool or bead versus ventilated PIR insulation cavity

Never closed one on a single detached house in my life. Perhaps i've been doing it wrong