Oz07

Hope the buyers conveyancers have good insurance.

Cut all brass fittings off the copper tell them it's clean. Then your brass fittings and copper bits are more mixed

I see stepped ones on a new development near me which keeps the blockwork opening around 25mm wider each side. Windows fitted up to back of face brickwork which is unusual for volume developer.

2 units because of size of house?

I don't answer their calls, respond to any correspondence or let them on site. Learnt the hard way.

Set up an area where you can stockpile tarnac planings. Then get on the blower to local resurfacing companies or companies operating in your area. Pull up near jobs you see and offer some cash for loads

Would it change anything if you'd built the wall in the wrong place? I've had them visit before with that gizmo too

@Marvin how do you get on with that unit. I've got the same. Recently cleaned the pre filters and was impressed at what they caught but it has been dry. It seems the unit is sealed and there is no way to change the actual filters.

Lost my old phone halfway thru but you won't go wrong.

I've done very similar to you except 140mm void, 2 lots of cross battened 70mm timber. Headers fixed exactly as you describe. I think I did chuck some acoustic wool offcuts above the studs in places but wasn't overly worried. I had 15mm pb on ceilings and I don't really have any occupied rooms next to each other. Had a niche as you describe to except for a bit of ply before the plasterboard

My god...seems high to me but have no idea if fair.

Think I've used them all. I'm basically a price whore. Ffx good on lower value as delivery normally inc. ITS usually dearer but do have occasional offers. Powertoolmate fine.

To me the whole idea of choosing some plastic product to imitate wood makes me puke. I'd rather have a smooth plastic flush casement with welded mitres than a woodgrain one with vertical welds. A bit like that flo plast imitation cast iron gear. Each to their own though if we all liked the same It would be boring

I can always spot the welded mitres on the casements. Vertical joints would look a lot more authentic

Tilemaster do an external self levelling compound suitable for a wearing surface. My last garage was mint but this one I caught a cold with different batches of conc needed. The flatness is still good but the finish was dog poo so sealed with that.

What a terrible detail that is could in not be routed inside

The pipe size shouldn't impact penetration heights as you will be working off invert levels anyway ie bottom of pipe. It would only add an extra 40mm on top of the height if upsizing. Like has been said though 110 simpler all around

I think the gun can fire full heads but I just used proper galv clipped head ring shanks at 51mm

That's what normally happens. Strip rear to match front

If manufacturer stands by the installation then all is well.

If your joists are on 600 or 400 cut the sheets down to 2400 or get the merchant to before deliver. All short joints to be supported on joists. Long joins ideally t and g. Think you're ok without joins or noggins if 18mm on 400s or 22mm on 600s. I nogged my garage roof for the long joins only needed a few rows, set the joists on 16" imperial as was easier.

What's the detail for sealing pipes like this in basement where they exit the wall and still allowing for movement. Are they solid in the wall with flex bands and rocker pipe outside?

Interesting stepping up to 150. Looks like you have room to bring that 90 connection into the drain within the top third of pipe which is I believe what building regs ask for. Your ridding points would be on the stack in cupboards above

Not sure if be happy with that connection, feels a bit unnatural. Would it be accessible to rod from both cupboards or hatches in basement ceiling? I'm sure it would be fine, after all I've got flush invert 90 Dec junction IC and I've never had to lift the lid due to blockage. As long as there was rodding from both ends available, it's pretty close to the IC outside so any problems should be fine. Have you got depth to have the c pipe run 2 or 3 inch higher then a little 15 or 22 bend downwards before it hits the 90 junction? @Nickfromwales is your man to comment.

The planning system is the problem. The govt should allocate land for housing with minimum and maximum densities and building heights. The rest should be left to building regs.