Oz07

What's your ceiling level detail just plasterboard under trusses? You could possibly address this here

I used a mastic to glue membrane to the blocks. Wouldn't replace tape in all situations though

@nod and his great camera again. What is it?

Regarding no.4 how long has it been since you've fitted a toilet. While I agree with the sentiment of the post I may have a revelation for you...

To put in perspective I have seem some absolute garbage on the site I'm on atm. I don't think you'd see that roof detail there because they're drawn out pretty well being a volume builder, however the workmanship is dog poo. Perhaps the only reason I get a start there! Had to go in an occupied house last week, get in loft cut through fixings top of stud wall, cut out plasterboard below and plumb up the wall. Was an inch out of plumb!

@ProDave I think it's less to do with the structure of the building more like the frane of window expanding and contracting. It's bound to happen having two extremes of temperature either side

I did it on all Windows as @joe90 advised how he did in porch. Looks good when it's done bit more of a clean line than skim straight upto frame.

Look at the bond up sides of garage door both sides

To be fair there could be a window cill at that porch lead flashing level. It's a poxy 3" upstand and could be the only reason someone would leave that transition looking like that...and there are still better ways of dealing with it. OP do I win? Is there a window to the right of that picture above the porch?

Mr punter c'mon wouldn't you ever try to sell a house with that porch to garage roof transition? Screams amateur builder to me.

God they are heavy. Ignore me lol wouldn't want to handball them

Trestles (to store trusses)

Just get 2 treaties and put where the wall plate would be

Surely you wouldn't need a crane just for garage trusses If the rest is ready to go

That porch roof to garage is disgusting. Doesn't look a cheap house either. End bit of guttering will fill up, drop futher and leak. The fascia is not high enough all around on that place as can be seen by bottom course of tiles. Wants some over fascia vents nailing on above the fascias if not there already to give it the kick. Hard to say from here but if the bits you can see look like this imagine what the bits you can't see look like.

Table saws are good. I prefer to cut loose and foam in with a few nails halfway into the rafters

glutton for punishment

I've stuck with the traditional version. KISS. also have one in a duct going out to garage. Set separately at nights.

Because there's a top and a bottom?

I think roofing generally attracts a lot of chancers @Big Jimbo bit like block paving. Its rare to find one who actually takes pride in the job

Well you know what to do, knock it off her housekeeping.

Yes I think cls is either 89 or 63 wide x 38 thick. I used 89 here on 400c/c Good thing about cls is it's nice and dry so less likely to warp or twist after you put it up and it dries out.

How big are the tins 1l? I got through just less than 1 and a half tins with 2 coats with 9 doors

I used subframes.co.uk on my last

If it is deffo getting in under there because of a gap in silicone could you 're seal from underneath with a 90 nozzle or whatever then get some metal skirts made to introduce a wider drip. These could overlay the glass by 20mm and cover that black edge. I hope that black isn't the glazing compound uv light breaks it down