Oz07

Does your uhf go underneath your steel? Do you staple it to bottom of insulation and if so what about dpm Edit sorry just read it's below eps

Just go 15mm. I used to go 12.5mm on nogs but 15 is so much easier. I see a lot of jobs where they go 12.5 on 600s with no nogging and all seems to be fine no more or less cracking than any other houses. I wouldn't do it but anecdotally it's not the end of the world.

You probably don't see many TRAVELLER caravan enthusiasts round your way

Why do the caravan enthusiasts leave them on every site if you get refunds on the bottles

I've got a fanny trap but maybe the 3/4" inch pipe dripping down into the hockey stick for the washing machine would have been just as good. Could see if it was dripping then and would exclude the need for a trap?

Theyre economical and do a job. If my nan has had 30 years usage I'd say that's good enough for a lot of people. They recycle the old plastic frames now don't they? Bit like mvhr here, people spend big then will convince themselves it's justified. I know the good Windows are better, but not everything always needs to be the best of the best.

A lot of the time you won't know whether DIY things are damaged till you unwrap. It's decent stuff but I would say the clue is in the name. Trying to do ordinate with pro fitter on timescale is asking for trouble

Stop worrying

I'd be more interested in what the frame is built from and the longevity of this if it was a forever home. Do the high quality window suppliers just use the same size rebate with deeper beading for 2g as opposed to 3g? My nans been in her place over 30 years now. Got the rosewood upvc they put in when renovated before moving in. Changed a few units but the frames still serviceable now. How long are the "good quality" 2g Windows expected to last above the standard upvc product? Got the standard upvc in mine and got a good air test result. I think when it comes to Windows be careful not to overspend and don't believe all the hype.

Same here went with small champher blocks. Not tumbled either I'm not paying extra for my blocks to be chipped up.

I got it in a few seasons.

My friends are hindhead I know it's pretty pricey round there

10k per m2 crazy. Whereabouts is this @joth

Lintels over an 8inch (I used 6) pipe built into the wall. Fill gaps in with compo and crap.

I meant concrete bricks/brickette/clunkers.

Why not introduce 3 course of coursing brick above joists and brick it back in 300mm from bottom of joist, ie around top of chipboard level.

Why wouldn't it. I used some of that board it's nice to cut. You must be a sucker for punishment curved wall on a shower!

I think with regards to access a driveway can serve upto 5 dwelling before the spec needs upping. Check it out I know my last place had this as mine was the 5th

Is it already used for access?! Difficult to argue against if so

I prefer this way. Get double the amount of 75mm

No ufh

I used 200mm eps under my slab was equivalent to 150mm pir from memory but significantly cheaper

I was always led to believe ground bearing slab more efficient than block and beam because the temperature below it is higher. I think warranty companies prefer block and beam but they are dearer and not as simple.

Think question two will to a small extent depend on question 1. Don't discount a ground bearing slab if you do go for strip footings. I personally think separate slab and screed is old hat nowadays. Welcome any way your project should go down well here.

How are you all finishing these warm deck roofs at the edges. I did one recently that was getting on for 400mm thick all in. Cut the ends of the joists so they tapered to 100mm at the end on the eaves as per drawing but still leaves a thick fascia. I see some builders finishing the warm roof at wall insulation point, with a step down to a standard cold flat roof for overhang. Not sure how this effects condensation.