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Found 5 results

  1. Hi. Please could somebody share the cost estimation spreadsheet. We are embarking on our self journey (remodel/rebuild) and I want to cost both option so that I am clear as to what can be achieved. Has anyone been to QS. Are they worth the money? The issue is they would need plans and plans would cost money and two option would cost more moneys so I want to see first I can pull of total rebuild, if not I will go down the remodel route. Would really appreciate any help you guys can provide. Thanks.
  2. I’m looking to control the losnay MVHR system with some wireless humidity switches - similar to wireless temperature sensors. Does anyone know of any good ones? R ed
  3. Having picked up a Titon HRV1.25Q Plus Eco for a price that was too good to pass on I now find myself with slightly less controllability than the Xpelair Natural Air 180 unit previously planned for. Specifically, the Titon's humidity-controlled boost function is based on an absolute threshold rather than rate-of-rise, and its summer bypass has fixed thresholds that cannot be adjusted at all. All along I have been planning on employing a Pi Zero to monitor system temperatures and control boost and setback flows, and so I have decided now to bring humidity-controlled boost and summer bypass within its scope also. The former can piggyback the existing boost input but with the bypass being internally controlled I have had to pinpoint on the control PCB where to tap into to influence (actually take over) this function. What I would like the panel's input on is the control logic for these features in case there's something I haven't considered (or just got plain wrong!). Humidity-Controlled Boost I am attracted to rate-of-rise control on the assumption that it'll ride out seasonal variations better whilst also being more sensitive and reactive to genuine need. To achieve this control I think I need to consider: Inputs: Extract (i.e. from rooms) humidity Outputs: Boost Settings: Rate-of-rise threshold ($rateofrise), time period ($timeperiod), when to turn off again ($deactivatethreshold) Control Logic: 1) If the humidity rise over $timeperiod exceeds $rateofrise activate the boost. 2) Continue with boost until the humidity falls to $deactivatethreshold. This sounds reasonable I think? What should $deactivatethreshold be though? The pre-rise humidity value, or at least something near it in case the background humidity has risen slightly in the meantime? My starting figures are likely to be something like 5% for $rateofrise and 5 minutes for $timeperiod. Incidentally, I was planning on taking measurement every five minutes so that'll be the minimum boost time period. Summer Bypass From what I have read it seems that summer bypass works better in theory than in practice but I like the idea of it and given the Titon has the capability I may as well make use it. As per the previous process I think I need to consider: Inputs: Extract (i.e. from rooms) temperature, Intake (i.e. from outside) temperature, time of day(?) Outputs: Summer bypass, boost(?) Settings: Room temperature threshold ($roomtempthreshold), Outside temperature minimum ($outsidetempmin), quiet time ($quiettime), when to disable bypass again ($deactivatethreshold) Control Logic: 1) If the temperature of the air being extracted from the rooms exceeds $roomtempthreshold and the outside temperature is at least $outsidetempmin then activate the summer bypass (unless the outside temperature exceeds the room temperature). 2) Additionally (and optionally?), with the bypass active also activate boost unless we are within $quiettime (e.g. at night). 3) Continue with the bypass active (and, optionally, boost) until the room temperature falls below the $deactivatethreshold. Typical figures might be 22C for $roomtempthreshold, 15C for $outsidetempmin, 2300-0700 for $quiettime and 18C for $deactivatethreshold. Thanks for reading this far. Should I be considering a different approaches? Is there anything I should/could consider?
  4. After a slight hijack on another thread, I thought it best to start one a bit more dedicated to heating control systems. Some of us like playing with wires and stuff, other are happy to buy in a system. This may be a good place to combine the pooled knowledge, and pinch a few ideas. If I get time today (decorating bathroom) I shall try and post up some thermodynamic theory. But no promise on that.
  5. Sometimes I wonder if this building lark is the right thing to do - both myself and the OH had a disturbed sleep last night. He was up around 3-4am, unable to sleep and around 5 it was my turn, worrying about the water in the cellar. And we are just renovating; what will it be like if we get to do our self build - one night without sleep and I'm a very grumpy bear, how will I cope with a couple of years! Maybe I should ask how will the OH cope with a grumpy grizzly bear.... Anyway, yesterday I spoke to Building Control for our area as it has become apparent that we need to make several applications for Building Notices and I wasnt sure when they had to be applied for. Seems it is before we do any work - does that include removing what was there....?? Opps. However, a very friendly officer was happy to give me advice. For the electrics we need to apply as the OH can only install, being Part P trained but he cannot certify so needs BC to pass the electrics. Thats a £360 charge. If we move the bathroom, that needs another notice but if we decide to leave it as it is and just replace, we dont. All the plumbing and new boiler will need a Notice but the chap we are planning to use is a Gas Safe plumber so he can certify his own work. the OH will be doing most of the labour but the plumber will be checking everything and providing the certification. The new windows would need a Notice except the company are FENSA certified so can do it themselves. And as long as we dont take off all the render, that didnt sound like it needed anything either. So it sounded like we only need to apply for the Electric work. Its a shame that the OH cannot certify his own installation but until he is doing more elctrical work, then it just was not worth paying the registration fees as they were more than he was making. What a monopoly the electricity providers have. We had to ask Western Distribution to come and check the earth of the house supply as the OH cannot touch their side of the electrical supply - ie the black box on the left. He had been unable to get a good earth in the Cu so installed an Earhting rod into the corner of the cellar and connected it, (the green/yellow wire on the right) to the CU which worked fine. For some reason he then arranged for WD to come out to check the incoming earth, which they did. they used a meter to give a reading (5 seconds work), said it was fine and then changed the fuse from 60 to 80amps. And that was it - £200 invoice to be sent out for 5 mins work, They werre unable to install an isolator switch between the incoming suppy and the CU as the OH had hoped so he could safely work on the new installation. thats not their side of the board - thats the electrcity providers! They only deal with the left side! They completely understood why he would want the isolating switch but could not help. They suggested he just cut off the wires going into the CU and instal his own Isolator switch between the meter and CU. But that would mean dealing with live wires unless he pulls their fuse out, which he isnt allowed to do! Hmm. While waiting for Western Distribution to turn up, I checked the cellar and was surprised to see our new Hygrometer showing a humidity of 99% in the front right hand corner of the cellar. It has always been the wettest area but this time, I could see lots of water drops on the rockwool insulation and the whole area was soaking wet with moulds growing in several areas. Its odd as the rest of the cellar is dry with no sign of water. And as we have had no real rain for several weeks, I would have thought the damp would have improved, not got worse. So now I am wondering where it is coming from. We were told before buying that there had been a problem with the drains between the house and next door, leaking water into the cellar so Anglian Water had relined the drains. However, it does not seem to have stopped all the incoming water. There are no downpipes which could be directing water to that corner of the cellar, so I cant see where it is coming from! Very strange and something we need to sort out. My thought is that we need to start digging down alongside that corner of the house to see if there is a problem with the drains. And ideally before it rains too much so we can see if it really is the drains or something else. ButI dont think we'll be able to get a mini digger in there and as the gas supply runs along there too, I think it will have to be done by hand. Very carefully. The joys of renovations.
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