dpmiller

I don't understand why the compressor isn't in the outdoor unit tbh...

I went with the Solido Smart and It's supremely quiet, a pumped option for it would've been a couple of hundred quid at the time if we'd needed it. Internal pump...

get a pumped outlet version and you can have the unit at whatever level suits the house

BPC are very good IME, why not give them a chance to offer a full design by informing them of your "incompatabilities"?

All our windows, the french doors and the back door are all UPVC grey outside/ white inside. The front door however is black composite in a white UPVC frame, as the porch area will be stone clad and I wanted a bit of contrast to break these features up, vs. the grey beside white render elsewhere.

poured screed on pozijoists is pretty firm.

The iboost monitors both outputs- it heats on no1 until that heater's stat is satisfied (or any series switch or relay you may have switches open) then it heats no2, but "tries" No1 every 15mins (IIRC) to see if it's requesting heat again. I've set mine -a thermal store- to master on the upper to heat to DHW levels quickly, but then the switch over to the bottom element to fill the rest of the tank.

but 4-strokers are ok?

I'd suggest there's something dodgy on the earth side of the pole transformer which could then allow local ground (and your neutral in the house) to rise towards the potential of the overhead line because of leakage through the bird? edit: which if any of the trips in the house had gone?

the UFH pump only circulates in the loops, when the TMV is closed the UFH is pretty much isolated from the ASHP circuit.

preplumb seems mostly to be Tectite or crimp fittings which can be a bit neater for sure but as above, unless the base cylinder is configured with ports in the right places and the external stuff oriented right, all the pipes can be in the wrong places.

Is the cold water tankfed too or is it at a different pressure to the hot? Might be the valve is a little unbalanced at the lower temp...

We were advised against black because it would have more of an issue with fading. RAL7016 as a foil on UPVC, it's a mid grey now, and if it fades it'll still be a mid-grey, lol.

Send your spec to World Heat (whcylinders) and see what they come back with. Happy to do bespoke and deal direct.

so make it unlockable then. Our UPVC windows came with a bag of little plastic clip-in bungs, to render the keyhole on the handle of fire-escape windows unuseable.

how much is the MCS cert worth to you?

RTU

that screed quote is well over twice ours...

have you the 50mm to spare?

strip of self-adhesive foam rubber? Bed and damp the slates in one.

how close is it to the plant room? could you (say) loop the return from the hot tank to the boiler through the room?

Did ours ourselves (clay tiles). Felted and battened by the TF crew but we did the rest and saved a fortune in the process. But would I do it again? not so sure...

@Declan52 is there any way of getting that clean blueish-grey that the local wetdash tends to be, in a rubbed up coat?

generally the gubbins of the unit bayonets into a bottom mounting boss so possibly no need to remove the cistern.

why do concept, developed design, and technical design all look the same to me?