dpmiller

if so why would a new pump fix it?

https://www.grantuk.com/professional/spares/oil-boilers/control-panel-spares/temperature-control-pcb-with-sensor-mpcbs54e/ looks like the pcbs56 doesn't have the sensor sockets but this does?

/never mind what they'll do with stuff being sent to this "other" part of the UK...

you might think that

business?

Date set for the screed pour- next Thursday (17th). Got the final loop down on the floor tonight, so that gives me a chance to go over the edge insulation, joints etc prior. Total loop length? 666 metres. Really. And no, not deliberately....

not sure what's currently happening what with COVID etc, but some of the NI-based frame companies will travel over to erect a kit. You might try Leadon, Kilbroney, Kudos, Kingspan. Some of the other companies aim more at the volume market and are less likely to be interested, but any and all may be happy to put a kit on a lorry and send it over, with an allowance for local sourcing of insulation etc.

try pushing a damp string up a hose filled with peanut butter @SteamyTea they're steerable for good reason...

local concrete guy sends one of his trucks out with mortar each morning to top-up tubs he has out on sites. Whatever is left when the truck comes back is tipped for some of the small businesses to descend upon, vulture-like...

If you've got a diverter, do you really need to think about this even?

I use EE and the local tower is an 1800 one here: https://www.4g.co.uk/4g-frequencies-uk-need-know/

this is the one I sprung for https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001051426244.html "outdoor" antenna is in the attic, I'll probably get it outside when we've scaff up next. I've two indoor antennas on a T-piece, one at each end of the upstairs balcony. Without the booster, there is basically NO signal in the house. With it on, there's two bars upstairs and 1-bar downstairs, only a few dropped calls. there are variants for different frequencies, you'd need to check which bands your operator uses.

cupful of ash-free 2-stroke oil if you must, or a gallon of diesel. But tight pumps tend to gall and seize in a non recoverable manner... No, I'd be happy it was the cap tbh although the filter is worth a change. / you can see efficiency improvements by installing a Tigerloop, havng a constant head of pre-warmed de-aerated oil *does* work.

Really dislike the ads running on the radio over here at the moment- "do business with the rest of the UK? find out what you have to do NOW" b'stards.

legal or illegal? there are plenty of chinesium boosters and they work well. IIRC @Jeremy Harris discussed them a couple of years back. I've one for EE's frequencies and it's works bleedin well.

Ask Zoot?

/presuming the immersion stat's correctly set and actually working...

are the caps the same on both ends of the rad? The whole point of a lockshield is to protect it from fiddling, leaving only one valve for the customer to open/close/adjust. The valves come with both typed of caps, fixed and adjustable, and your plumber should've put a different one at each end. That he didn't, makes it seem like the system has never been balanced...

If the workshop is so much warmer than the rest of the house, have you turned this radiator down a bit?

Wrong country... https://www.calor.co.uk/

what would they say about a wall of glass bricks I wonder Dave?

Steady progress. Plasterboarding just about finished. Remainder moved upstairs for storage Ground floor cleared Insulation down (100PIR over 50 graphite EPS) Heating plumbing roughly in place Now working my way through the UFH pipework. About halfway there now... Willis on the left (and the piping from the ASHP will come through the wall in roughly that location). Diverter valve next (sorry @ProDave) defaulting all flow up to the TS's coil, mixing flows in the mid position and bypassing the TS when fully over. One 2-way valve sending up to the towel rail manifold, and the last sending round to the UFH manifold. Bypass valve to ensure necessary flow in all states. Interesting observation is that with the towel rail motorvalve open the is sufficient flow- convective or otherwise- to warm the FF ensuite towel rail even with the manifold pump off. And yes, I've pipe insulation to fit yet...

pipe stat plus solenoid valve. Or an STS quench valve. Both would work, but neither would comply AFAIK

that's not the point.

I'd have to say, NZ is probably pretty similar to the rest of the UK if you take greater london out of it.