markc

No reason why not, changing it around is pretty straightforward

I have a cheap heating mat from Ebay, think its the one mentioned earlier. Connected to a therostat and sensor buried in the tile cement. I never turn it off, stays on 24/7 at 22 degrees.

Got to agree with the above, if you want to experience pure bliss, watch a cat sprawl out on heated tiles, also feels really nice under foot

Looks like there is quite a lot of material lost. I would screw a doubler timber along side extending well past the damaged area

Dowels are used where slabs cannot be connected (expansion joints, crack inducers etc). they simply allow the slabs to move independently while preventing them from becoming uneven/mis-aligned. Drill holes in the shuttering at the required locations and insert the dowels through the holes with approx 50% sticking out. If sleeves are specified, these are then slid onto the exposed ends prior to the next pour

Re using materials is never a bad thing unless its more trouble and work than its worth. Broken concrete can make good hardcore if broken down into small enough pieces (compacting hardcore is basically getting the pieces to lodge together tightly, large pieces do not fit together well and leave large air pockets) couls always be used as sub base under a drive etc.

Ahhh, 75-80mm does sound like there should be a packer or infill piece. over say 7 feet i would count on upto 25mm of shrink and settlement if nipped down tight during fitting

Stacked horizontal logs will shrink and settle down over time.Windows need a gap at the top (fill with compressible foam etc). to prevent the windows becoming fully load bearing

Thats only for ventilation, not enough for kitchen extraction

Gimmicky and unnecessary, wether chains or wire ropes to anchor down, Dig a hole, wrap the chain or rope around a piece of tube/bar/scaff pole or even a brick or stone (be careful it wont slip off) bury it and compact the grount. this method has been used for centuries for ground anchoring

30 years - i would leave it

I like how they mention £70 per month - as if it was a high end policy

hello and welcome

Ah, i almost asked if they were 4x2`s but thought it must be camera angle. If the extension has been there a long time then its unlikely to get worse, the purlins will have distorted to the point where they stabilize the compression and tension loads. The existing cannot move due to the gable wall so i wouldn't have a problem with it.

Get on with it ... I have the money, the know how and the ability to build but can i hell as find a suitable plot

The pulins look rather small for that span

Why would you want to go less? it will be like cooking in a pizza over

42 tubes of it

Yes, no need to grout if decorative only

As @Declan52 says, its all about the base to prevent wheel loads creating ruts. Dont forget to use a Geotextile - terram etc to prevent the mud coming back up

OSB will be perfect for this, i would use tile adhesive as its cheaper and easier to cover a large area.

Looks fine, floor and wall finishes hide anything, and you will be super critical of yourself where contractors/builders rarely care about anything that will be covered up

Working Platform Certificate is basically a quality assurance document specific to piling. It was introduced to pass responsibility back to say the piling layout and requirements have been met to support the specified building/loads required. Your groundworker is unlikely to take responsibility for the piling works unless thats in their package, and the piling contractor cannot say that the ring beam or slab has been correctly installed and connected to the piles.

Oil burners are very simple engineering, easy to repair (unless its the water jacket etc) fans are nothing special, burners are much easier to fix and service that gas

I would go tight to the window - very rare anyone fixes anything tight to a window opening. corners get shelves, speakers etc.