markc

+1 on Peter`s answer

Local installers should have practical experience with what works best in the area, i had a place in direct line to the transmitter mast and TV was crap ... local guy broke the Arial in half and TV was perfect after.

I would give it a go, i reckon you will find it difficult to use due to over speed ... and it probably wont last very long running at silly rpm

If you are going with ply and want to have the edges visible you need a good quality Birch Ply, also known as Baltic Birch. This has 13 ply build up (18mm) with virtually no voids. Or you could use compact ply which is similar but more resin in it - this is the board you often see used in fast food places where the edges are visible. It is very tough, doesn't splinter etc.

good morning and welcome

Call it an indoor water feature

There she blows! Capt`n

True, for VAT purposes the invoice is sufficient as its expected you will end up paying it

1930`s would make it pre pre-fab so no idea why there would be a stranded steel cable in there, hopefully someone else may know more or seen this before

Looking fantastic, good to see some thought being put into stairs.

18 truss lifts in one day is pretty easy going so £1K is definitely on the safe side. I would check the maximum radius and shop around. good chance someone with a big Loader crane on their truck will be able to do it and save you all the fuss and appointed person extras etc.

Granite is free draining while limestone holds water. The load bearing capacities are not important with a driveway. Granite should be more expensive but they may have railway ballast available.

This is your neighbors problem, not yours, tanking/water management would be their least disruptive option or they could support the top part of the wall and roof from their side, remove the wall that abutts yours and then build in the DPM as they reinstate.

Trying to look at the pics on a small screen so correct me if im wrong. Is there a gap under the flashing that will allow water under and onto/over the gable boards? ks like Whats stopping water being blown under the blue flashing?

In Random stone it is almost impossible to get then in higher without cutting slots that will glare at you later. Concrete lintels can be a bit thinner than the wooden ones (assuming they have rebar in them) allowing you a bit of wiggle room to pack fill either side of the strongboy before removal.

@idontknowwhatiamdoing this makes it easier as the outside lintel will stabilise the wall and take most of the load.Use strong boys to be doubly safe. a couple near the center shouldn't cause too much hassle getting the replacements in

Strong boys are great but they are designed to support much thinner walls than yours. Are the replacement lintels full depth? ideally you could do with replacing half and then the other half to maintain support. Bricks are predictable, random stone and infill isnt. Unless properly supported this could go horribly wrong

You would only get more capacity using the 3rd phase ... extra 100 amps. Although the transformer is rated higher its unlikely the cable will allow an increase of amps/phase plus the incomer fuses and switch would also need uprating

Yes you are right, Split phase gives you double the capacity and allows lighting etc to be on different phases to prevent total outages and strobe effect on lighting. If you are going to be using any serious machinery you need the 3rd phase

This is your home and her career so your interests in the project is very different. Customers can be a pain, but they are also essential for a business to survive, and we all have times when things are tough and not going to plan. Send her an email politely saying how you feel and that you are concerned she may have taken on too much (giving someone a bit of slack and an outer often leads to a happy ending). Dont start threats and `legal` jargon as that just causes tension and aggression. If you are going to continue with the project you need to be working as a team, not enemies.

Fill the void with a fairly wet mix, well poked to get it into the voids and crevices

Good morning and welcome, sounds like an interesting project

good morning and welcome, if you search previous posts you will probably find answers to most questions, if not feel free to ask.

In that case grouting is the easiest way forward. No problem with build afterwards as the bulk of the grout should be well below your founds and pipework. Gravelly clay is good if the site drains ok.

Primer or sanding sealer before fitting (stops greasy hand prints soaking in), check all gaps and ironmongery, remove and finish then re-hang