markc

A noggin is classed as a compression member from a design point of view, its purpose is to prevent the trusses or cords from deflection towards each other. Therefore the fixings are merely to hold it in place.

This is great for load bearing but no use if the foundation is also a ground anchor against wind load (rolling over) etc. Screwed piles work in compression and tension so fantastic for lighter buildings in windy areas.

Door bell is so low powered (almost zero current) that cable size is almost irrelevant. For multiples its will be easier to run a 2-core to each call point back to a central controller/chime unit. If you are going for long runs then a 12v circuit would be better than the very low voltage units

There is no basis to put prices up due to Brexit, Covid and the increased cost of keeping businesses operating yes. Bit of paperwork and £167.00 for us to customs clear a fully loaded Artic, offset by reduced transport costs as there are now less delays and the ferries are competing for business due to there being no holiday makers.

Good morning, not the best picture, it looks like a reinforced roofing felt, can you say what the material is? or what its like? rubber?, hard? etc.

Seems that many people/businesses are saying costs will increase but i cant see why, my company imports everything from Europe and we are predicting price reductions to customers as machines are costing less to us now

Full thread screws are convenient for general use but are significantly weaker in shear and bending due to the metal removed to form the helix. Also straight shank screws will pull pieces together (floor boards etc.) while full threads leave any gaps and simple pin the two parts where they are

Good morning and welcome, please use the search function as many common questions have already been answered in great detail previously

@Olf A DPC is there to act as a barrier to prevent damp/water travelling upwards. In your initial sketch/detail there is nothing to stop the water going around and over the broken DPC. If your Ground level is equal to or above your floor level then you really need to look at it as tanking/waterproofing as opposed to a DPC

Im guessing the threaded part is over length to cut down as required ... or the mounting boss is too far forward

Cost per square meter is a pretty good baseline figure. Building geometry does affect the cost but this can be factored in. We used to price steel building erection on a per tonne price plus a `buggeration` factor for restricted sites, difficult access, component complexity etc. plus any welding and on site fabrication etc. As we did some very complex jobs the base £/Tonne figure rarely worked out but did give a good start point.

You are definitely on the right lines, budget is reasonable. Unlikely you will land on an old stolen 3C/3CX due to transport.

This all depends on your budget. Engines are bullet proof. Whatever you buy expect it to need the brakes looking at, a few new hydraulic hoses etc. Steering pins/bushes wear but that only really affects road driving ... as does a worn steering actuator resulting in having to rotate the steering wheel slowly anticlockwise in order to drive in a straight line. If it starts, drives forward and back and the hydraulics work you wont go far wrong. Manual box i find easier on old machines and less problematic

Welcome to the forum, no cheap fix im afraid. Either leave it or take it all up and replace.

Uneven floors are my pet hate, I can feel the gradient while walking or sitting on a stool etc. Plus rectifying uneven wooden floors is a pain in the A&*E!

Hi, it wont affect the heating but would annoy me to hell. Levelling a wooden floor means over boarding or removal and re-laying.

Got to agree with the above, we deal with a number of German machine manufactures and as an engineer i find them to be mediocre engineering dressed up to look pretty. "Made in Germany" .. fabrication in Poland or Yugoslavia, Italian Hydraulics and Chinese Electrics, so yes you have to be careful and look beyond the hype.

Unless you are competent (and want to) erect and alter the scaffold yourself, and its a fairly fast build then you are better off hiring in. Dont buy your own and let the contractors put it up and alter to suit themselves.

This is sounding more like an atmospheric problem .I.E lack of circulation and air changes rather than just heating. Any major building work takes time to dry out, but it needs ventilation to get the damp out of the building. My cold damp cellar became a hot damp cellar with heating, unsealed it and added forced ventilation and its now bone dry with so signs of mould or the damp musty smell.

@MikeGrahamT21 for what its worth, im presently replacing my kitchen and ended up ordering the cabinets and doors from Wren, i couldn`t make them for the price. I used their designer to and 3D rendering to sort the design but i will be fitting my own hardware, handles, bespoke drawers etc.

Birch ply is fantastic if you are leaving the ply face and edges visible as a feature, if not they are more trouble than they are worth. Yes ply is pretty stable, but its still a wood and will move unlike good quality chipboard. I made all my workshop units from marine ply and they stil;l; move and drawers bind due to atmospheric changes

Solutions to cold and damp dont have to be expensive pieces of kit. I bought an old railway house that had been extended (after being used for loads of purposes including a tyre fitting bay)... it was freezing and the rads would not get hot, damp everywhere and it felt horrible. I bought a new boiler, fitted it with a plumber mate in about 4 hours, fitted a radiator in the cellar because the kitchen above was freezing and now its a lovely warm dry house.

That makes sense, i noticed a few of the tight budget builds suddenly had some very expensive furniture in the final reveal

deleted as @Timedout said it better

Was the extension added on or incorporated into the house by removing the wall? if the wall was removed then i would say this is the support lintel/Beam either settling due to poor installation or deflecting allowing the wall above to settle.