markc

Cool build, credit to you for escaping the rectangular box house

must be hitting something solid ...steel shim or a nail etc.

You can see the support works are not yet finished (another hole started), the UB`s are not new and pretty much an ideal length - They have done this before

I tried describing this but gave up, deleted my poor explanation and went for the bodge option instead.

Hi, assuming the hole doesnt go into the shower area as well, you could use expanding foam to fill the void, trim back when set and then finish as required. not a lot you can do with the bit of trim apart from replace the whole piece or just that bit with something else

good morning and welcome

Quite often its the lap near the ridge, if the felt is undamaged then no need to replace it, carefully peel back/lift up the ridge piece and stick it back down with a continuous bead of mastic or similar to seal the edge

Ian (educated guess), builders struggle to keep up with the new materials, technologies and specs etc. When it comes to compressive strength of materials and floor loadings i know several "engineers" who struggle to get their heads around it. If you have any doubts, err on the side of caution. The denser (not sure if thats a real word) EPS materials are not that much more expensive for piece of mind

Yes, depending on the weight of the structure, contents, usage etc.

Good morning and welcome, ...building your retirement home? ... so basically cant give it up and landing yourself more work than before

Good morning and welcome ... good advice regarding the Covid thread

I would hazard a guess at high winds plus rain pushing the water up under a felt lap/joint

That`s an odd steel detail.

If they ever have an Oscar for forum threads, this one will get it

No problems at all importing from Europe, costing us around £46.00 to customs clear an artic loaded with around £400K of machines. Truck just has to drive through the customs yard and hand over the declaration paperwork. The drivers have said its now much quicker and easier than it was last year. we use UK hauliers to bring our machines in. The couriers based in Europe have not got their act together tho, loads of delays and they just cant seem to get to grips with the requirements.

@Pord67, just a thought - your tank is a flat bottom variety i assume, or is in on legs? - concrete strength and slab design will be very different

Hi, Yes C40 is overkill - used for high strength beams etc. C20 would be adequate for your use.

Pretty much the one that @joe90 gave the link to

This seems odd, a chimney pot isnt a big hole/funnel to collect so much rain water.

This all depends on the load weight and ground you are going over. the fold-up/doubles as a platform truck ones are great in a workshop od on a flat solid floor. In a garden you need something with large wheelbarrow type wheels - and go for a fully welded one. We have a few around work, one is a new cheap chinese thing and its brilliant, inflated tyres and fully welded, think it cost around £30

Any bolt into a threaded hole will wobble due to thread clearance..

@Jer70 i cant see any reason why not unless removing the packs will allow the glass to slip down.

if its a shower screen then ideally you dont want any packers as this is likely to leave voids that will collect water. If the glass is a little short or base not quite level then it would be better to lay down a bead of silicon (thicker than you need), allow to almost dry and then sit the glass on that. No voids and better load distribution. Packs are needed in UPVC frames etc to hold doors and window square .... or out of square to fit the frame etc.

Bending rebar (manually) is mind numbing, heavy tiring labour. Have it ready done where you can. there will always be some site bending to do. Yes there are schedules and codes for bends but for the odd few you need to do on site its very easy with two tubes (usually Scaff tubes). The danger is bending too tight a radius but that wont happen doing it cold as the bar will naturally take a larger radius than machine bending.

Im assuming that is a ledger and rail door so the hinges should go on the rails.. If its a bit bowed or warped - could be made into it or just drying/settling, loosen the screws holding the rails and ledgers, push the door into the frame and then re tighten the screws, it should then stay put.