markc

Depends what you are sanding, SteamyTea is correct regarding economy and general use - gets into corners better etc. Circular random orbital you can use the edge for digging is a bit but needs practice or you will get swirl marks much easier than a rectangular plate

What teeth plates?

The grooves are not for water run off. They are called Kerf cuts and are there to stop the planks cupping. You see this a lot on old timber ships etc, the deck boards have kerf cuts on the underside to stop the edges curling up. Many manufacturers now make double sided boards and some with anti slip material, obviously the anti-slip is intended to go on the top.

All good - as i suspected. Single bolt is an odd detail but ive seen it loads of times in heavy Glulam structures to prevent tortional loads in the walls/ends of joists/beams. - By design the bolts should be only just nipped up and not tight but that doesnt really matter

you wont go wrong with an Erbauer, you can pay silly money for orbital sanders and its pretty pointless. They all do the same job, yes some are vibration damped buy you wont tell the difference

+1 to this

That looks to be a folded construction which would mean it is the same material inside and out,(this makes it easier and cheaper to produce) if marked 904 then it would be 904/904. 904/316 is made using two separate strips, harder to manufacture but slightly cheaper material for the outer layer. 316 is still marine grade and will not come into contact with flue gases so no problem

He would need to apply for a working visa, explaining it will be just to work on your house and he will return at the end of the project. You will be his sponsor etc.

Patio brush, basically a wire brush on a long handle.

@sean1933 much clearer and i wasnt having a go (having re read my answer it didnt sound as i intended) working together is great, sadly as mentioned previously, a lot of the tradies like the site `crack` and banter with others and find it hard working on self builds. But there are those that take pride in their work and would love to be part of your project, just few and far between.

Ask any tradesperson (politically correct garbage) and they will tell you their pet hate is having someone looking over their shoulder and checking/questioning everything they do. A good tradey will want to work on a price so they can get stuck in and make some money. Day rates are a sure fire route to boredom for good ones

Chipping the surface crust is perfect, no need to wire brush. Gobbo will stick to most things without falling off. If you are worried, mix a little and stick it to an area. let it dry and then reassure yourself it has stuck. You are pointing some old stonework, not bonding fall arrest or structural members to the wall.

Dont worry about how good compact foam is in compression. If we are putting a machine on a delicate floor we use compact foam under the outrigger pads. 400mmx400mm foam pads will support 3 tons no problem.

The valves need to sit back from the surface, hence the boarding. and the arm screws into a bulkhead type fitting (not sure of the correct name for it)

i would be careful to support the lower bend well because the fall will cause a hammer effect and could separate the fittings. also im not sure thats acceptable to have a vertical followed by horizontal inside the house.. someone else may be able to shed more light on the regs etc.

If you are using 6x2`s 1800mm will be more than enough.

The 45 degree slope and the lower one are both too steep, you risk having the solids stick in the pipe because the water will run too fast. 1:80 slope ensures the solids are carried by the water and they float along

As above, you use nuts to secure the ply in pl;ace to mimic the base plate of the column. If you are still worried, put a piece of pipe insulation around each bolt between the ply and the bottom washer, when the concrete has gone off a bit take off the ply and dig out the insulation, then wiggle the bolts around a bit while the concrete is still green. This will give the necessary movement. This is how steel building are put up.

If the floor was already tiled then no excuse, get him/her to put it right including the Island

As the edge of the old slab is thin and has voids i would excavate under it a little way, lay the DPM under the old slab, Dill and fix shear keys (rods in resin will do fine) to prevent the slabs settling or becoming uneven, and then pour the slab so the concrete flows under the existing to support the edge.

me neither

Common practice to set the units at the max height and allow a gap at the top of the kick board (allows for floor finishes to be laid without having to cut the kick board) and generally you never see this gap while using a kitchen

Plywood drilled to match the bolt pattern. If you are not sure of getting it placed correctly then foam cones should be added to the bolts to give wiggle room for lining up later. the pockets are filled with grout later when the steel is fully fitted.

Someone will buy it and yes the roller tracks and supports can look pretty ugly. Rollers are much neater but require more head room to install

Slimline cisterns in thin walls are fine, wall hung pans and thin walls can cause wall flex ... broken tiles and mirrors etc. If the cistern+pan are close to a corner then its much easier to keep the wall stable. A couple of times ive had to double stud either side of the frame