markc

I reckon he/she is very old school and referring to cast iron or clay wastes. (the rough inside face do tend to leave solids behind).

Work out the area, multiply by average thickness to get approx. volume and then multiply by weight of sand and cement. P.S. regular sand/cement screed is 1800kgs per cubic metre

Honestly, forget about the different slopes and geometry. Standard gates are cheaper etc. but if you want bespoke gates to fit the hole, be that 50/50 75/25 60/40 etc. then it really makes no difference to lining them up. Measure and draw out the shape of the opening to work with the sloping floor. Split the gates where you want to split to be. Have the gates made to this design. Get the gates and offer them upto the slope with required gap underneath, measure amount the hinges need to rise, get hinges made to this rise. Ive done hundreds of them in the past.

Long distance directional moling isnt cheap, but a simple straight short run pit-to-pit job is straight forward and requires little plant and equipment. Tree protection can be fence post and rail type fence or even post and barrier tape unless there is likely to be a lot of vehicular traffic to warrant mechanical protection.

The white seals are usually PTFE, Nitrile should be ok but rubber will grab when dry or with water.

If you have shallow brick strip foundations, why do you want or feel you need to add a french drain? - the drain excavations can/will compromise the foundation and removing water will affect the soil underneath

Either way, its looking good and i love the plot, great backdrop with all the trees

2nd thoughts, if you dont need the chamber why not remove it and make coupling the two pipes really easy.

What is a Chamber Joist? been in construction over 40 yrs (mainly commercial steel and timber engineering ) and never come across the term

I think what Russel meant was - do you need to join the two pipes or simply allow one to flow into the chamber and then the excess will flow out of the new pipe. Not that you would need to keep looking into it.

Electric under tile mats for the bathroom means toastie warm tiles when the main heating isnt on.

only cap heads in M4

Tanking slurry would help but it just keeps the water inside the brick/blockwork. I was going to suggest filling in the gap and adding a flashing over to the pavers but looking closer at the photos i reckon the pavers all drain towards your garage. no simple fix im affraid

@steveoelliott had a look in my workshop, I have 2 M3x8 in black with Philips head. If they are any use pm your address and I will send them.

I will be back in our workshop either tomorrow afternoon or Friday morning. I will have a look what we have and assuming we do have some I can pop a few in the post to you.

As above, I reckon it’s M3

As glass is a liquid, it will all smooth out in a few hundred years,....if there is no real hurry.....self build always takes a while. Does that mean ... if you stand still on it for a while you will sink in

or if you take another pic with it on a rule or tape measure i will give you the details to get off ebay or amazon etc.

thats a readily available countersunk screw. available from any industrial supply place. ask a mechanic for your local supplier.

Why use a T? if looking to feed two appliances into 1 flue its not as straightforward as a drain etc.

Glass has a very bumpy pitted surface (unless coated) so anything sticky can be a pain to remove as you only wipe the tops off

Definitely sight line as Mr Punter says, you just need a 2nd person to sight or mark

Yes, a joist or beam works in equilibrium with the load shared by top cord in compression and bottom cord in tension. Simply strengthening the bottom cord with a 4x2 etc. will not stop the top cord compressing and will likely cause the beam to rotate/want to flip on its side if not adequately braced.

When you say re-laying the floor above, do you mean you removed the floor boards etc. and replaced with new? If so, that is where your problem lies. The old floor will have deflected until the boarding (in compression) took a lot of the weight. Removing this and replacing without jacking/pre cambering means your joists and floor now need to settle until the flooring is again in compression. If you dont want to remove the floor then the options are reduced to removing the ceiling, pre camber and then ply/OSB on the joist sides. Just adding more bottom cord will do very little.

@dave1899, As it stands I'm happy that the verge needs fixing but not sure if the tiles need to be installed closer to the edge of the Velux windows. Im not sure what the Velux instructions say but i have always worked on the upstand being there to stop water tracking diagonally under the tiles, yours would allow water to drop on the tile side of the upstand.