Dave Jones

our local jewsons had loads of tyvec when i was in yesterday.

you could look at using a 300mm trenchblock with a block and beam floor.

tesla powerwall or equivilent to time shift your demand from the grid. I have the powerwall on an hourly time of day tariff and allways pay very cheap rate for my grid electric now whatever time of day. Use greenenergy. Will be able to do the same with electric car if its at home a lot.

read the NHBC guidelines on how to do it properly. You should really have a lead saddle on that ridge as well. the upstand is a min 75mm but dependant on the roof pitch and weather its going to take it can be more. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-20-weathering-details/ also give it a wipe over with patination oil as well.

sorry but that looks awful. Should be stepped properly, clipped into the cuts then morter or lead sealent. No more than 1.2 m lengths as well. DIY bodge job.

block and beam allways. Conc is bloody hard work and never bang on level.

id be interested to know, does the 3 phase meter and gubbins fit inside a standard mater box ?

reportage your BTL and pull some equity out.

very large difference between passing an irrelevant air test and a vapour barrier. Better not to mislead others into thinking glue is in anyway a substitute to doing the job properly.

dig down to get height then a warm roof. Always a compromise PD.

more like 10-12 in reality with liberal application. Always end up with spare.

builder is correct.

Not really much help but the pipe needed putting in before the beams went down, you could have ducted and concreted it to come up under the island so it was sealed. Always have to think 10 steps ahead.

you cannot get a vehicle closer than 100m ? Long way to carry the shopping.

if you forget to run it under the footings then sure you can roll the dice on an un-inspected solution. Should be ok ......

a litre does way more than 3 boards. If you read the instructions with the egger protect it tells you exactly what,how much and where to use it. Any non-cowboy chippy would know it also.

pretty much this but blackjack it first then lap the new DPC https://www.everbuild.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/BLACKJACK-908-DPM-V1.1.pdf

£5k ! Jesus thats pure robbery.

without a proper vapour barrier, like Alutrix, it wont be airtight by a long shot.

If it was me, that floor is coming up and pu glue used to put it back down. No debate its done. you will kick yourself forever when the first, followed by second and third squeeks occur when walking over it.

what a load of tosh! used a 127 x 76mm x 13kg/m beam with a 300mm welded plate to hold up a gable and its not deflected more than 3mm. Will have zero problems with bifolds.

should have enough fall to get that drain out 11m @ 13mm/M fall. I'd run that duct past your waterboard, Severn Trent wouldn't accept it. If you already have a duct in for water it doesnt really help you to make the run shorter.

Bit late to fix stuff if already built out of ground..... water has to be 750mm deep.

if the FFL has been ballsed up cut the conc for drains. Have you already put in conduit under the conc for mains water ? I'd also ditch the slab, hardcore and sand for block and beam. Another tip ditch the 100mm celotex which doesnt work brick and use the cheaper 150mm eps insulation with 75mm screen (225 or a block). Save yourslef some brickie cost and look at trench blocks instead of the 2 courses of 7n's you have below ground.