Dave Jones

cant be guttering as you could drop it well below the true eaves height if you think about it.

kitchen in before plaster, brave!

how can those tiles be mechanically fixed to a batten that is not actually there ? To quote NHBC guidelines "Verge clips should be in full contact with the tile to resist uplift, nailed twice to battens and sized to ensure that they are in direct contact with the top surface of the verge tile." https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-19-fixing-tiles-and-slates/

silly.

is that snow on the ground ?

personally a shed/timber build isnt worth looking at, they are used by selfbuilders/amatuers as there are quicker and easier to manage than a traditional build. inferior though. Proper brick and block with a 200mm cav superior in every way.

get you plans properly QS'd its cheap (150) and you will have costs down to the last nail. https://www.estimators-online.com/

the cause of water getting in, it does look black under there , needs to be addressed. I'd go for ventilated soffet as well.

they will be fine to fix a frame to.

subframes for all the structural openings speed up brickes and help with accuracy. Very cheap and you have to fit cav closers at some point anyway.

its just not pointed is all, if you want it to be pointed (better for air tightness) ask the brickie to make sure it is. Some sites its not pointed as its not seen and plastered over anyway. if its the the inner leaf the tie is on the wrong side ?

Well, you could make a feature of the wall/pillar and put the new RSJ on the outside to save the cost/expense/hassle. It wouldn't make the pillar that much bigger and would save you a packet. take some ideas https://www.houzz.co.uk/magazine/how-to-work-around-a-structural-pillar-in-your-kitchen-extension-stsetivw-vs~76437319

could use concrete lego blocks but they need kit to install along with drainage and are expensive compared to stone and wire.

it doesnt look that bad, acro the lintle in the door and a couple strongboy on the flank wall. I'd question why the steel in the first place and leave the corner as is, what is it going to be carrying ?

as in the doors are not sat on cill so how is water being stopped from getting inside ? Are they a proprietary frame with built in drainage?

how will that be watertight, they look like bog standard bifolds ?

£680 for 40 ton is not too bad, its 2 loads on an 8 wheeler.

well if its not seen, then i would use 75mm-150mm mixed clean. will be easier to fill. Also the 3mm gabions tend to bulge easily the 5mm are much better. Dont forget to put the tensioner wire in the middle when half filled.

if the gabions need facing you can buy them with an inner mesh that holds 100mm of gabion stone, the rest behind it you can fill with anything that wont fall through the mesh that is clean, ie no dust.

water min 750mm, electric 400mm, soil is what it is.

dig down at back and find the pipe this will determine your lowest point. Connect to it using a small chamber so you can clean silt etc from it.

wouldnt need to be that deep, 13mm fall per M. Or are you saying you dont have a level floor so the back is lower than the front ?

where does the back of the house drain too ?

use stud instead!

im not a fan of the canteen style setup, no separate lounge or dining room