very large difference between passing an irrelevant air test and a vapour barrier. Better not to mislead others into thinking glue is in anyway a substitute to doing the job properly.
Not really much help but the pipe needed putting in before the beams went down, you could have ducted and concreted it to come up under the island so it was sealed.
Always have to think 10 steps ahead.
a litre does way more than 3 boards. If you read the instructions with the egger protect it tells you exactly what,how much and where to use it. Any non-cowboy chippy would know it also.
If it was me, that floor is coming up and pu glue used to put it back down.
No debate its done.
you will kick yourself forever when the first, followed by second and third squeeks occur when walking over it.
what a load of tosh!
used a 127 x 76mm x 13kg/m beam with a 300mm welded plate to hold up a gable and its not deflected more than 3mm.
Will have zero problems with bifolds.
should have enough fall to get that drain out 11m @ 13mm/M fall.
I'd run that duct past your waterboard, Severn Trent wouldn't accept it. If you already have a duct in for water it doesnt really help you to make the run shorter.
if the FFL has been ballsed up cut the conc for drains. Have you already put in conduit under the conc for mains water ?
I'd also ditch the slab, hardcore and sand for block and beam.
Another tip ditch the 100mm celotex which doesnt work brick and use the cheaper 150mm eps insulation with 75mm screen (225 or a block). Save yourslef some brickie cost and look at trench blocks instead of the 2 courses of 7n's you have below ground.
the trays are purely aesthetic so when you look up from underneath you just see black rather than membrane. You can use osb and paint it black if you have money to burn.
at £45 a sheet, hahahahha
you could have used the black plastic eaves trays instead of osb, stapled to the truss then membrane over and batten nailed through.