Gone West

@oranjeboom On mine it says regen 23 and resin 400. I think yours might be possibly 135 not BS.

I told the supplier the hardness level in my area and had the hardness setting set by them but I don't know how to reset it. I had an old TwinTec that packed up a few years ago and gave it away on Freecycle for someone to play around with, I was too busy doing the house at the time. I did look on Youtube at how to replace the resin but it seemed like too much hassle.

I used Sennocke Insurance and got an unoccupied buildings policy.

Stainless steel screws. Yes

Our old 1920s bungalow had T&G sarking boards covered with roofing felt and slates nailed into the sarking. Our new roof has 15mm OSB3 raking/sarking covered with Protect TF200 thermo membrane then 100 x 50mm rafters with 50mm Rockwool between and Protect A1 tight over the rafters then NuLok roofing.

Shame about the neighbour, but if the new position is further from their site they might be happier. Planners don't usually take that much notice of nimbys so good luck.

Around here a Class Q conversion requires most of the original building to remain and the footprint to not be altered. Also the curtilage can only be the same area as the footprint of the building. A small converted barn next to my property has a very small garden as a result. Mind you if no one dobs you in to planning enforcement they probably won't ever check. Not a risk I would take though.

We designed our own house and submitted the planning application ourselves. After we got approval we employed an architect to draw up the building control drawings and liaise with the timber frame company and structural engineer.

I bought a Jokari for doing all my T&E around the house. Wouldn't do the single 4mm2 and 10mm2 cables I have, but did everything else. https://www.jokari.de/en/Flat-cable-stripper.htm

We have fitted Schneider Lisse sockets and switches and they are very good. I like the connector on the light switches for connecting the neutrals for loop in at switch.

Could you use a single sheet of cement particle board such as http://www.euroform.co.uk/versapanel-cement-bonded-particle-board/

Welcome to the forum Diane and good luck with the project.

We have Lindab and found it easy enough to fit, if a bit different to plastic. I like it because you don't get the cracking sounds as it expands in the sun.

Someone told Planning Enforcement that we hadn't demolished our bungalow within the allotted three months after moving into the new house. He wouldn't tell us who it was, but he wasn't really interested. He said if we might have problems taking it down before the end of the year to give him a ring and that was in the summer.

I would say it was repair work to an existing entrance. The tree removal in not part of the repair work and I would not mention the widening work.

You could look at these materials, I should imagine not cheap though. https://uk.foamglas.com/en-gb/homepage http://www.compacfoam.com/index.php?main=1&item=0&sub=0&lang=en https://en.puren.com/construction/

A central vacuum system was one of those things we saw when visiting a self build show. We quickly discounted it and now are very pleased as technology has moved on and a Dyson stick is all we need.

We had the asbestos removed professionally and the electricity disconnected, other than those we did everything ourselves. I detailed the process in my blog.

Not true. Wendy doesn't like islands in a kitchen so we designed a kitchen without one.

No, not to my eyes. If it's the actual room layout, then I prefer the first picture. It's very subjective, I don't like staircases in the living space and functionally it looks like there are potential thermal bridging issues with the roof windows in the second picture.

Welcome to the forum. We've just completed our first self build and am approaching seventy and we definitely won't be doing another one.

Good to hear from you again @SteamyTea, thought you had gone for good .

Would it be possible to fit something on the inside of the ventilation unit where the intake duct enters.

If there is a way to fit a fine insect screen, which is easily accessible for cleaning, it might help reduce the larger crud on the filter. There does seem to be a lot of what look like weed seeds trapped on the filter.

Do you know if you have insect screens in the air intake to the F7 filter.