Gone West

Sorry.

https://store.walabot.com/uk/walabot-diy-pack.html Seems expensive but reviews not bad.

We have built a PH and have very little south facing glazing which consists solely of 2.4m x 2.4m lift slide doors. These are in shade until midday but the gain from the east and west facing windows is enough to keep the house warm at this time of year. We don't have an overheating problem in early spring and autumn but did find that the large glazed gable facing WNW caused overheating problems from mid April to mid August until we had solar control film applied to the glazing.

We had a 47m borehole drilled nine years ago through clay and shingle and it cost £3000. There were large variations in quotes, so get plenty.

I used the old original Devolo plugs for the last fourteen years until I moved into the new house. Had a couple in an extension board as well and none ever missed a beat. I guess I was just lucky.

Would the fact that it had never been charged in those two years mean that the battery pack would be in a worse or better condition than if it had been used.

We have a triple glazed roof window in our bathroom and I chose low (32%) solar transmission glazing. As a result we don't have a problem with overheating but it is slightly darker in there in the winter. The room faces ESE.

I seriously considered changing my DHW heating method to using a Sunamp around eighteen months ago and am so glad that I didn't.

I won't be selling mine for a while . I tend to go to Axminster Tools because they are fairly local and have a good selection.

So is that because of Wendy's hat or the fact we recycle everything?

I used a testing kit bought from Amazon when I tested mine, which turned out to be Chrysotile. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Testing-Kit-Sample-protective/dp/B071ZN1W3W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550652477&sr=8-3&keywords=asbestos+test+kit

As an update, what we did in the end was as simple as possible, surprise, surprise. We bought some 2.4 x 1.2m 50mm mesh, laid it over some 50 x50mm timbers for support and riddled it by hand. We started in the middle of January and finished a few days ago. We have been doing it every day except when it rained and when there was a bitterly cold wind. I've been shovelling and Wendy riddling. All the larger than 50mm rubble we put in a telehandler bucket and the farmer took it. We started with around 40 tonnes and the farmer took around 11 tonnes. The only good things I can say about the process is that it has saved us a lot of money and kept us fit.

You could always try a portal frame then you wouldn't have to worry about structural internal walls at all .

I had a strongback in the way of one of the ducts so I cut out a section of the strongback and replaced it with pieces of timber between the top and bottom cords of the joists.

It's the same as mine except you have an additional grey thingy, but then mine's a few years old now. What is the grey thingy for?

I used Bentonite around the inlet and outlet pipes on my sewage treatment plant because they were just sealed by rubber grommets. The water table is high enough around here at times for the hydro static pressure to force water past the seal. It is extremely effective at keeping water out even with a relatively thin layer.

We had an electricity cable over sailing our plot where we were to build our house and I asked the DNO to move it. They moved it by repositioning several poles which meant negotiating with the farmer and in the end it took the best part of a year to get it done. Probably took longer than necessary because that farmer always wants something for nothing. It didn't cost us anything.

It would be interesting to know how the shape as well as the size of the room affects the supply and extract interaction. Our kitchen/diner is only 6m x 3.2m.

I would wait until it's fully set.

That is exactly what we have in our kitchen/diner with an extract at the cooking end and a supply at the eating end. It seems to work without any problems. We did run the idea past ADM Systems before we decided to use it and they were quite happy.

@Mrs CFS I don't normally comment on this type of question because it's so subjective, but I think it's a great layout. If the MVHR can be installed so it runs quietly and you don't mind going into the loft to change the filters etc no problem.

Can't be that difficult as I did all mine . I've got layout drawings you could use as a basis for yours if you want. I found the building regs. extraction rates too high and after the house was signed off I reduced them to PH levels. Again I've got my tables of PH ventilation rates if they would be of any use to you.

@Dreadnaught There's a discussion here about MVHR duct routing where I have shown pictures of low level supply ducting. Is it possible to have a small flat ceiling at the top of the vaulted ceiling to conceal the ducting. I have the extract vents high and supply vents both high and low.

The instructions say do vertical first then horizontal but I've never tried it so I can't speak from experience.

We have vaulted ceilings and took the ducting up through the stud walls upstairs. We also have 250mm metal web joists and used 125mm ducting rather than a manifold system. The rectangular ducting we used was 204mm x 60mm.